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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Old 09-05-2022, 08:19 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: rustyus
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.




Hinge Pin Insert Chart:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.





















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Old 08-16-2015, 06:43 PM
  #1936  
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i just ordered a 410.3 kit and im planning to get a tekin 4300kv motor. What range of pinions should i order
thanks
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Old 08-16-2015, 08:49 PM
  #1937  
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Originally Posted by TRoy9696
i just ordered a 410.3 kit and im planning to get a tekin 4300kv motor. What range of pinions should i order
thanks
15,16,17
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Old 08-16-2015, 08:52 PM
  #1938  
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Originally Posted by Josh L
15-16t is a good place for you to start. Much less will create excessive tork, and much more would cause too much heat.
Yeah, a 13 doesn't quite mesh. You can gently dremel some Aluminum away to make the motor slide closer.

I would run a 14t if I were you. I'm running a 15t with a 4400kv and my motor is getting hot. It was 186 today. Definitely start with a 14
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Old 08-16-2015, 10:18 PM
  #1939  
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Originally Posted by Barillms
Yeah, a 13 doesn't quite mesh. You can gently dremel some Aluminum away to make the motor slide closer.

I would run a 14t if I were you. I'm running a 15t with a 4400kv and my motor is getting hot. It was 186 today. Definitely start with a 14
I have a 16t pinion gear but it doesn't seem to mesh well and has some noise to it (I posted an youtube link earlier)

is that normal?
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Old 08-16-2015, 10:29 PM
  #1940  
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Originally Posted by novaris
I have a 16t pinion gear but it doesn't seem to mesh well and has some noise to it (I posted an youtube link earlier)

is that normal?
Mod 1 pinions tend to be noisy. Mine sounded similar to yours on my SCTE when I first put it on there. What your likely hearing most is the gear backlash do to the fact your motor has very strong magnets when your turning it by hand. It took me a while to adjust to this being that I was used to running very quiet 48 pitch gears in previous years, so much so I worried about it like your doing and reset my mesh probably 10 times before I finally just ran with it.
Anyhow everything was fine and it eventually didn't stress me anymore as I got used to it. Just set your mesh by feel and ignore the sound all together with just a very slight amount of play as normal. It will wear in and quiet up a bit once you have ran it a few times.
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Old 08-17-2015, 12:27 AM
  #1941  
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Originally Posted by Josh L
Yeah I thought I could get around it to, but it ended up costing me a few races with the servo getting mushy near the end of the heat. I added a glitch buster and that helped a little, but it still struggled off and on. Just bypassing the red/black sero wires straight to the battery input and leaving the signal wire to the rx will be your best bet if you dont wAnna fool with the external deal. But it's upto you. You'll know if your standard bec can't handle it, cause what Im telling you will be obvious if it happens and your servo will perform poorly over all
what I meant is, i'll leave it one side first and get a feel of other rc kits that I have first before playing around with this. actually I have no experience in RC and this is 1 of the first few kits I've bought.
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Old 08-17-2015, 01:42 AM
  #1942  
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Originally Posted by novaris
what I meant is, i'll leave it one side first and get a feel of other rc kits that I have first before playing around with this. actually I have no experience in RC and this is 1 of the first few kits I've bought.
Well in that case, welcome to the hobby!
It's a whole lot to learn and it never really stops, but your already on the right track being here on the forums. Don't be afraid to ask lots and lots of questions. If you don't understand something be sure to mention your experience level on the particular subjects so people won't be as short with the answers unintentionally.
Most of us generally love to help when we can. Speaking for myself personally, it's half the fun in it.
Also, it's cool that you choose such a quality kit like the tekno as one of your first. You didn't go wrong
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Old 08-17-2015, 07:44 AM
  #1943  
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Originally Posted by novaris
I have a 16t pinion gear but it doesn't seem to mesh well and has some noise to it (I posted an youtube link earlier)

is that normal?
A 13 doesn't mesh because it's too small. The pinion doesn't reach the spur. The motor mount only slides over so far, so you need to dremel away some metal to make it work if you have your heart set on running a 13.

When you mesh your gears, there needs to be a tiny bit of play between the pinion & spur. Or your motor will overheat. Once you set your mesh, rock the spur gear back & forth and it should move slightly. If your spur won't move ...its too tight. Remesh it
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Old 08-17-2015, 08:00 AM
  #1944  
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Originally Posted by TRoy9696
i just ordered a 410.3 kit and im planning to get a tekin 4300kv motor. What range of pinions should i order
thanks
We run 16-18T on that motor in this truck. I just switched to a Hobbywing 4000 and will start with a 18 on that motor and go from there.
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Old 08-17-2015, 09:13 AM
  #1945  
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Okay so I'll probably buy Novaks set of 15, 16, 17 and 18, 19, 20.
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Old 08-17-2015, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by TRoy9696
Okay so I'll probably buy Novaks set of 15, 16, 17 and 18, 19, 20.
with my SCT410.3 and Pro4 4300 HD I started at 15t on a medium sized outdoor track and found it to be under-geared. I now use an 18t pinion and feel it's perfect even for hot temps, was 100 degrees during our last race and after 6 minute races it was around 185ish, this is not too bad for a worst case scenario.
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Old 08-17-2015, 02:07 PM
  #1947  
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Originally Posted by TRoy9696
Okay so I'll probably buy Novaks set of 15, 16, 17 and 18, 19, 20.
The Tekno Mod1 pinions fit REAL NICE and look nice too!

Some of the MOD1 pinions are just too long and they end up rubbing against the motor mount. I have a 15t and 16t pinions that look like they fit but rub under acceleration (you can see marks). Needless to say, I have those in my junk drawer now.
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Old 08-17-2015, 03:01 PM
  #1948  
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Anyone ever use novak pinions with the 410? I can get sets of 3 for $20.
I emailed tekno and he said to start with a 15T for a tighter indoor track and 16T for outdoor track

Last edited by TRoy9696; 08-17-2015 at 03:35 PM.
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Old 08-17-2015, 03:47 PM
  #1949  
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Originally Posted by qstorm777
I'm running bladder shocks and green springs and I can get the stock ride heights. I would go thru the check list Matthew laid out. I'm hoping that fixes it. If not, maybe Tekno will help you out to get this fixed.
Just to chime in here about ride height....i build mine emulsion style(zero rebound) Yellow springs/front and yellow springs/rear. I can go as low as 22.5mm front/rear. I run mine at 24mm front/23mm rear on high bite clay or blue grove.
I feel that the issues are not the springs but the way the shocks are build and how far up the rod ends are tighten. Also check your ride height with the body on as well.
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Old 08-17-2015, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by TRoy9696
Anyone ever use novak pinions with the 410? I can get sets of 3 for $20.
I emailed tekno and he said to start with a 15T for a tighter indoor track and 16T for outdoor track
I have only ran Tekno pinions on this truck so cant say about how Novaks fit. The gearing they recommended is on the conservative side but a safe place to start, as I said earlier we run 16-18 on that motor indoor's.
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