Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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#3436
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
I understand. I probably have about four sets of body mounts. The problem with the HF2 body in the rear is that it hits the Tekno body mounts right on body's ridge (sunken in part). One of the pics on the Tekno fb page shows this pretty good. I was down to either new body or cut the body mounts.
#3437
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
Two questions.
Normally I run on an indoor clay track however the outdoor track in my town is coming back to life. Besides a different set of super soft tires, are there really any changes I'll need to make? I don't want to necessarily reset my shock oils to something heavier to compensate higher temps each time I switch. Basically how can I cheat to cut down on setup to run a loamy outdoor track?
Second, the last time I rebuilt my center diff, when I tightened the spur gear down the diff started binding. Is this normal? I ask because I'm worried I may have a leak if I don't tighten it down enough. Should I invest in a new gasket or a whole new diff case?
Normally I run on an indoor clay track however the outdoor track in my town is coming back to life. Besides a different set of super soft tires, are there really any changes I'll need to make? I don't want to necessarily reset my shock oils to something heavier to compensate higher temps each time I switch. Basically how can I cheat to cut down on setup to run a loamy outdoor track?
Second, the last time I rebuilt my center diff, when I tightened the spur gear down the diff started binding. Is this normal? I ask because I'm worried I may have a leak if I don't tighten it down enough. Should I invest in a new gasket or a whole new diff case?
#3439
Tech Master
#3440
Tech Elite
iTrader: (65)
Two questions.
Normally I run on an indoor clay track however the outdoor track in my town is coming back to life. Besides a different set of super soft tires, are there really any changes I'll need to make? I don't want to necessarily reset my shock oils to something heavier to compensate higher temps each time I switch. Basically how can I cheat to cut down on setup to run a loamy outdoor track?
Second, the last time I rebuilt my center diff, when I tightened the spur gear down the diff started binding. Is this normal? I ask because I'm worried I may have a leak if I don't tighten it down enough. Should I invest in a new gasket or a whole new diff case?
Normally I run on an indoor clay track however the outdoor track in my town is coming back to life. Besides a different set of super soft tires, are there really any changes I'll need to make? I don't want to necessarily reset my shock oils to something heavier to compensate higher temps each time I switch. Basically how can I cheat to cut down on setup to run a loamy outdoor track?
Second, the last time I rebuilt my center diff, when I tightened the spur gear down the diff started binding. Is this normal? I ask because I'm worried I may have a leak if I don't tighten it down enough. Should I invest in a new gasket or a whole new diff case?
I imagine there is probably quite a difference in grip levels, and track layout between the two tracks so tires, shock oils, diff oils, etc., may need to be honed in on for the track.
I'm in the same boat as you actually. I'm going from indoor to outdoor but at multiple tracks. So I'm starting with the same oils and setup as my initial indoor setup for my outdoor, but I imagine I will need to detune the steering to calm it down for outdoors.
Reasoning? the indoor track I run is very tight and high bite, the outdoor tracks are low-medium grip with much larger jumps.
On your second question, no that isn't normal. It should assemble nice and free. I would pull it, remove it, pull the gears and all washers out, inspect it, then rebuild it to eliminate the possibility that something was assembled incorrectly.
#3441
Tech Elite
iTrader: (65)
Collars up, droop measured on the flat part of the chassis you should be able to get 24mm-22mm up front no issues. It may take a few packs or practices for the springs to settle but I didn't notice much difference there.
Again, make double sure you are measuring ride height from the flat part of the chassis behind the front wheels, not on the flat part on the front since it kicks up and will be several mm taller. This is very easy to overlook on the truck especially if you have a body on.
If you want you can PM me and I'll send you my phone number and I can help you out if needed via texting.
#3442
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)
Collars up, droop measured on the flat part of the chassis you should be able to get 24mm-22mm up front no issues. It may take a few packs or practices for the springs to settle but I didn't notice much difference there.
Again, make double sure you are measuring ride height from the flat part of the chassis behind the front wheels, not on the flat part on the front since it kicks up and will be several mm taller. This is very easy to overlook on the truck especially if you have a body on.
If you want you can PM me and I'll send you my phone number and I can help you out if needed via texting.
Again, make double sure you are measuring ride height from the flat part of the chassis behind the front wheels, not on the flat part on the front since it kicks up and will be several mm taller. This is very easy to overlook on the truck especially if you have a body on.
If you want you can PM me and I'll send you my phone number and I can help you out if needed via texting.
Getting this thing on some dirt eased my mind a bit, it's the first kit I ever built and with the 900 adjustments that can be made to it, it was a bit overwhelming at first compared to an Rtr that you throw on the track and push go. I was into Rc planes before this, and I thought tuning a plane was complex...getting a car/truck tweaked the right way seems a little more complicated
#3443
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
Two questions.
Normally I run on an indoor clay track however the outdoor track in my town is coming back to life. Besides a different set of super soft tires, are there really any changes I'll need to make? I don't want to necessarily reset my shock oils to something heavier to compensate higher temps each time I switch. Basically how can I cheat to cut down on setup to run a loamy outdoor track?
Normally I run on an indoor clay track however the outdoor track in my town is coming back to life. Besides a different set of super soft tires, are there really any changes I'll need to make? I don't want to necessarily reset my shock oils to something heavier to compensate higher temps each time I switch. Basically how can I cheat to cut down on setup to run a loamy outdoor track?
This is normal after doing several rebuilds or having the gasket in there tight for a long time and then doing a rebuild. The gasket is just thinner now due to compression, so replacing the gasket should resolve the issue.
#3444
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Two questions.
Second, the last time I rebuilt my center diff, when I tightened the spur gear down the diff started binding. Is this normal? I ask because I'm worried I may have a leak if I don't tighten it down enough. Should I invest in a new gasket or a whole new diff case?
Second, the last time I rebuilt my center diff, when I tightened the spur gear down the diff started binding. Is this normal? I ask because I'm worried I may have a leak if I don't tighten it down enough. Should I invest in a new gasket or a whole new diff case?
#3447
Tires & Rims suggestions-
Tires- Shopping for a more durable practice tire that wears good . Im willing to sacrifice some performance for longevity. This is the hardest Compound I could find in pins : PRO1169-01 - Pro-Line Gladiator SC 2.2"/3.0" Short Course Truck Tires (2) (M2). Better Options?
Rims - Shopping for something thats going to last . Maybe these ,JCO3352B - JConcepts 12mm Hex Hazard Short Course Wheels (Black) (2) (TEN-SCTE). The reviews Ive come across are pretty bad on all rims that fit this truck . IDK..
Tires- Shopping for a more durable practice tire that wears good . Im willing to sacrifice some performance for longevity. This is the hardest Compound I could find in pins : PRO1169-01 - Pro-Line Gladiator SC 2.2"/3.0" Short Course Truck Tires (2) (M2). Better Options?
Rims - Shopping for something thats going to last . Maybe these ,JCO3352B - JConcepts 12mm Hex Hazard Short Course Wheels (Black) (2) (TEN-SCTE). The reviews Ive come across are pretty bad on all rims that fit this truck . IDK..
#3450
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Tires & Rims suggestions-
Tires- Shopping for a more durable practice tire that wears good . Im willing to sacrifice some performance for longevity. This is the hardest Compound I could find in pins : PRO1169-01 - Pro-Line Gladiator SC 2.2"/3.0" Short Course Truck Tires (2) (M2). Better Options?
Rims - Shopping for something thats going to last . Maybe these ,JCO3352B - JConcepts 12mm Hex Hazard Short Course Wheels (Black) (2) (TEN-SCTE). The reviews Ive come across are pretty bad on all rims that fit this truck . IDK..
Tires- Shopping for a more durable practice tire that wears good . Im willing to sacrifice some performance for longevity. This is the hardest Compound I could find in pins : PRO1169-01 - Pro-Line Gladiator SC 2.2"/3.0" Short Course Truck Tires (2) (M2). Better Options?
Rims - Shopping for something thats going to last . Maybe these ,JCO3352B - JConcepts 12mm Hex Hazard Short Course Wheels (Black) (2) (TEN-SCTE). The reviews Ive come across are pretty bad on all rims that fit this truck . IDK..
Tires - depends on what you are practicing on and how they eat tires. My soft blockades have lasted three years tho I didn't use them as much last year. Maybe enduros or big blox too.
Last edited by qstorm777; 04-23-2016 at 02:51 PM.