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Old 10-24-2014, 11:17 PM   #5491
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makes sense. i just wouldn't think that there's enough force to make even the stock pistons deflect. unless you're talking about some ungodly triple on an 1/8 track.
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Old 10-24-2014, 11:24 PM   #5492
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you mxr's are a rare breed! I am fortunate to have one of our bigger tracks located in a MX park (3palms) and there are a handfull of pros that now race RC and you guys push to get the suspension right for sure! My latest "NewGen" were developed with mega testing from one of these pros and he drives Rc like he rides bikes! it neat to watch and we tried countless different combinations til we got what I released! I think the issue with the stock suspension is the thin pistons, they make it hard to get the pack you need on a 4wd buggy.
It's funny you say that because there's so many parallels between RC and moto-suspension as far as what you want it doing when and I very well know the benefits of differing control over your compression and rebound valving.
When i first started riding I didn't care about suspension because it was boring, but once you figure out what does what it truly is amazing how much different your bike will handle and how much faster you can ride with a bike that it set up how you need it. It also has taught me what we all know in having looked at varying setup sheets that what works for one guy may be an awful setup for the next. There is no replacement for spending some time experimenting.
And yes, there is a huge crossover between motor and RC, most of my moto buddies are also my RC friends and most riding areas always have RC cars tearing it up.
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Old 10-24-2014, 11:27 PM   #5493
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makes sense. i just wouldn't think that there's enough force to make even the stock pistons deflect. unless you're talking about some ungodly triple on an 1/8 track.
I think we'd be surprised if we could actually view shock internals in action. When you think about how fast that shock compresses and how small the piston holes are, at some point something just has to give and it likely is deflecting the pistons more than we think.
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Old 10-25-2014, 12:09 AM   #5494
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I wanted one from day one, but as you know they were in short supply. Then I heard stories of spur gear problems, so I waited to see how things played out. But I finally pulled the trigger and here it is.

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Old 10-25-2014, 06:34 AM   #5495
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what difference does piston thickness have on the way they work? oil has a longer path to travel through the piston? won't that slow rebound if that's the case?
Yes but it also slows down compression, you compensate for this by either slightly larger holes, bigger PTW gap and lighter oil. this is one of the disadvantages of single stage pistons. If you want faster rebound you need the RCShox 2 stage, that is what they are designed to do. Dyno tested on MIP's dyno and they gave almost 4% faster rebound. doesnt sound like much but when you think about how many times your shock rebounds on just one lap, it adds up!

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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK View Post
makes sense. i just wouldn't think that there's enough force to make even the stock pistons deflect. unless you're talking about some ungodly triple on an 1/8 track.
Your not going deflect 12mmx3mm Delrin but quite possible the .075 stock soft plastic ones. I thought that Juice was referring to the MIP style pistons.

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Originally Posted by RC Juice View Post
It's funny you say that because there's so many parallels between RC and moto-suspension as far as what you want it doing when and I very well know the benefits of differing control over your compression and rebound valving.
When i first started riding I didn't care about suspension because it was boring, but once you figure out what does what it truly is amazing how much different your bike will handle and how much faster you can ride with a bike that it set up how you need it. It also has taught me what we all know in having looked at varying setup sheets that what works for one guy may be an awful setup for the next. There is no replacement for spending some time experimenting.
And yes, there is a huge crossover between motor and RC, most of my moto buddies are also my RC friends and most riding areas always have RC cars tearing it up.
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Old 10-25-2014, 06:51 AM   #5496
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I just ordered one of these today... what spare parts and or upgrade parts are recommended. .. pm me or post here...greatly appreciated
Make sure you read the first post in this thread.

Don't have my kit yet but from what I've been reading I plan to order a couple extra spurs. But what I plan to do even more than that is use blue loctite and make sure I have my motor set in place. I was pretty surprised to read that some people were putting screws into metal without using loctite.

-Chris

Last edited by iScream; 10-25-2014 at 07:05 AM.
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Old 10-25-2014, 07:04 AM   #5497
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I haven't owned a 10th scale offroad vehicle since around 1995. So I don't own a single 10th scale tire or wheel and don't know anything about them.

With my 8th scale ebuggy and etruggy I just buy pre-mounted buggy or truggy wheels with tires that have the pattern and compound I want. I've read the first post in the thread with the list of what brands of wheels work on the D413 but have no idea why I would choose one of them over another.

So what would you guys do if you were starting from scratch like me? Do I just get several sets of the cheapest wheels out of the list that fit? Would it be best to only buy Hot Bodies wheels since I assume the suspension was designed around the specific width and offset?

Do all the rears listed use the same size tires and all the fronts listed use the same size tires?

Thanks for any help getting me started in the right direction
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Old 10-25-2014, 07:07 AM   #5498
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I haven't owned a 10th scale offroad vehicle since around 1995. So I don't own a single 10th scale tire or wheel and don't know anything about them.

With my 8th scale ebuggy and etruggy I just buy pre-mounted buggy or truggy wheels with tires that have the pattern and compound I want. I've read the first post in the thread with the list of what brands of wheels work on the D413 but have no idea why I would choose one of them over another.

So what would you guys do if you were starting from scratch like me? Do I just get several sets of the cheapest wheels out of the list that fit? Would it be best to only buy Hot Bodies wheels since I assume the suspension was designed around the specific width and offset?

Do all the rears listed use the same size tires and all the fronts listed use the same size tires?

Thanks for any help getting me started in the right direction

the losi 22-4 front and rears are a direct fit other than the stock d413 wheels. AE wheels in the rear will also work.
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Old 10-25-2014, 03:41 PM   #5499
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I've tested this car....it's as tough as an E1/8th. The car just doesn't break, and I break cars.
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Old 10-25-2014, 04:43 PM   #5500
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I've tested this car....it's as tough as an E1/8th. The car just doesn't break, and I break cars.
I too break cars. I shattered a shock cap on the front on my first outing with my D413. Completely obliterated it, it did not pop off but just shattered.
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Old 10-25-2014, 04:58 PM   #5501
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I too break cars. I shattered a shock cap on the front on my first outing with my D413. Completely obliterated it, it did not pop off but just shattered.
that takes some sort of skill
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Old 10-25-2014, 04:59 PM   #5502
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Does anyone here seal the chassis with glue? If so, how did you do it?
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Old 10-25-2014, 06:40 PM   #5503
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Just run it.... I've had mine since July and haven't broke a thing.
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Old 10-25-2014, 08:23 PM   #5504
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Whats the slop in the steering im hearing about and whats the fix for it...i will have mine next week
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Old 10-25-2014, 09:05 PM   #5505
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The fix is to not worry and wheel it lol, it really doesn't effect anything. But If you really want it gone you can Dremel the guide bushings till the Ackerman is tight
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