Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

yeah, people are drilling their own holes

ironzgti35

iTrader: (33)

I use the wet noodle and have not a problem with heat on any kits. It's the most flexible wire I've personally seen

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

That one I do not know. A few people on RCTech indeed know precisely what it is and where to get it at a fair price instead of the grotesquely inflated In-Hobby prices for just a god damned smidgen.

If I had to guess and experiment, I'd try Dow33 as it is a specifically engineered bearing grease with carbon molecules mixed into it, but I do not know how it would hold up and if it would work well. As it dissipates it leaves just a residue carbon molecules which is black.

spu83

iTrader: (2)

I think you can use smaller wires if they are short enough.

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

I have a bunch of different "brand" wire and it's all very similar. I have some shiny coated and some flat finished wire in 12, 13 and 14 AWG and they are all comparable to one another in each respective gauge.

Wet noodle isn't made to any special set of specifications from Deans. They simply call up a wire manufacturer who makes it in bulk and they pay a cent or two extra to have their "branding" stamped on it. Several "manufactures" in RC provide the exact same stuff from the very same spools. It is flexible, more so than some, but there are others just like it. Flexibility all depends on the strand count for the gauge and the silicone formula used for the insulation.

The number one culprit that results in loss of flexibility is over tinning. You ALWAYS want to tin using the minimal amount of solder to coat the leads completely. A touch of flux will allow you to accomplish tinning much more efficiently than without.

WagwanBumba

iTrader: (1)

So far ... shocking build. The screws to put the diffs together ... why did they not use screws that had a 1.5mm hex. Destroyed 1 diff already :|

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

that is one grip I have with this kits. The number of hex drivers required. I would prefer that the kit be all 1.5 and 2mm.

kdeleon

iTrader: (10)

Should that really be a gripe with this kit. Or should it be more about the industry. The D413 requires 4 hex sizes. The TLR 22 requires the exact same sizes. And my older B44 also required 4 sizes. Those are the kits I had so it seems fine to me.

skyline1015

iTrader: (149)

Hey guys. I am having a hard time getting the D413 to run on a indoor tight clay track. Can you guys share some of your setups?

nv529

iTrader: (53)

Which set up are you using right now?

skyline1015

iTrader: (149)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6C...it?usp=sharing

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

the tlr22 uses a 2mm on 98% of the car. In fact, I cant think of any 1.5 aside from maybe the hexes.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

your pistons look a little on the crazy side. what do you want it to do or not do?

yzracer758

iTrader: (18)

I would start by less front kickup, move battery forward, and go down to 10 or 15k on front diff oil

JKoiva

iTrader: (2)

Finally got my car built, first run will be tomorrow night. I'm running medium bite small indoor clay topsoil mix tracks up here in New England this winter. The Kit was packaged well, made it very easy to build, I'm still not used to all the slop in a new kit, but I'm eager to see how it handles and understand the philosophy. I liked my d812 which had the same slop just always seemed like it was on edge compared to my mp9 for my driving style. Anyways, figured just start with stock setup, stock shocks, diffs for day 1... But then after reading Torrance from page 1, I went with 15-100-3, and I used Kyosho x rings in the shocks ... Looking at other setups posted here but I'm thinking that my tracks in New England don't have the same groove/traction, and temperature like the west coast tracks and setups you guys are running though? . We will see after Friday I guess, on which direction to go with setup.