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Old 06-03-2014, 07:54 AM
  #6826  
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Originally Posted by SoCalMX
Ok, yesterday I spent 6+ hours completely rebuilding my 2.0 complete with new chassis (cracked at rear), new MIP Puck drives, all 3 diffs were redone with new bearings, shocks serviced, new TLR alloy caster block replaced (driver side broke, Ryan D handed me a replacement at the track, THANKS!) etc...

Last week I had my H-wing SCT Pro ESC catch fire. I will be taking better care of this almost new setup. My question is, what steps can I take to avoid a catastrophe like this from happening again? I am not sure why my truck ran so hot? How long per outing should I be running my truck? I am fairly new and we typically run until the battery dies which is 12mins +~...

Not really suggested to run your packs till they "Fall off"

What do you have your cut off set at ? or does the H-wing have a cutoff ?

Are you running any type of heatsinks or fans ? what packs ?
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Old 06-03-2014, 08:08 AM
  #6827  
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The shop I run at set up the cut off but I am not sure on a number?

I run inboard 2s 5000mah packs. 60 & 75c. What should lipo cut off be set at?

Last edited by SoCalMX; 06-03-2014 at 10:00 AM.
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Old 06-03-2014, 10:33 AM
  #6828  
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Originally Posted by SoCalMX
Ok, yesterday I spent 6+ hours completely rebuilding my 2.0 complete with new chassis (cracked at rear), new MIP Puck drives, all 3 diffs were redone with new bearings, shocks serviced, new TLR alloy caster block replaced (driver side broke, Ryan D handed me a replacement at the track, THANKS!) etc...

Last week I had my H-wing SCT Pro ESC catch fire. I will be taking better care of this almost new setup. My question is, what steps can I take to avoid a catastrophe like this from happening again? I am not sure why my truck ran so hot? How long per outing should I be running my truck? I am fairly new and we typically run until the battery dies which is 12mins +~...
Depends on how you gear the car on how long you run. I typically and not a fan of taking a car to lipo cutoff but if you do I would turn the cutoff up a little especially for a high drain vehicle like the SCTE.

Check to make sure your temps are not all that high and give the electronics a little rest between runs to cool back down. Electronics catching fire could be a few things from abuse to manufacturing defects to damage caused in crashes. It helps to buy from a company that will support and back there prodcuts here in the US if you can as well!
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Old 06-03-2014, 11:21 AM
  #6829  
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Originally Posted by Casper
Depends on how you gear the car on how long you run. I typically and not a fan of taking a car to lipo cutoff but if you do I would turn the cutoff up a little especially for a high drain vehicle like the SCTE.

Check to make sure your temps are not all that high and give the electronics a little rest between runs to cool back down. Electronics catching fire could be a few things from abuse to manufacturing defects to damage caused in crashes. It helps to buy from a company that will support and back there prodcuts here in the US if you can as well!
Speaking of support and here in the US, the best I've dealt with is by far Tekin. I prefer my lipo cut off at 3.4v /cell.

I run SMC 6500mah and 7200mah batteries.
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Old 06-03-2014, 12:27 PM
  #6830  
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What thickness of diff fluids are you running?
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Old 06-03-2014, 01:10 PM
  #6831  
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Originally Posted by SoCalMX
The shop I run at set up the cut off but I am not sure on a number?

I run inboard 2s 5000mah packs. 60 & 75c. What should lipo cut off be set at?
I would suggest 3.2-3.2V per cell at a minimum.
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Old 06-03-2014, 01:26 PM
  #6832  
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I run Tekin and although they have good customer support they seem to be fragile and you have to run about 1/4" of tape underneath to prevent shock from browning it out.

I tried the Hobbywing SCT Pro esc and it works great, its cheaper, just like an Orion, smooth and the support is there. The motors run great too.
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Old 06-03-2014, 10:45 PM
  #6833  
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Originally Posted by flipgixxer
What thickness of diff fluids are you running?
I run 5k front, 7k center, 3k rear on med to high bite tracks and on outdoor looser conditions I run 5-5-3 f-c-r.
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Old 06-04-2014, 12:02 AM
  #6834  
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I run 5/7/5, just rebuilt the diffs and added puck drives. 1st time out tonight and I was super pleased.

I would like to run Tekin or anything other than H-wing but my local shop, also the track I run at (OCRC) supports and swears by H-wing. It is cheaper too...
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Old 06-04-2014, 09:26 AM
  #6835  
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Originally Posted by flipgixxer
What thickness of diff fluids are you running?
High Bite: 7-7-5

Medium Bite: 5-5-3

Low Bite: 3-3-2
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Old 06-04-2014, 02:18 PM
  #6836  
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Originally Posted by flipgixxer
What thickness of diff fluids are you running?
We run 575 for normal running as our std setup

775 for high bite or even 7-10-5 for real high bite.
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Old 06-04-2014, 02:47 PM
  #6837  
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Originally Posted by LosiRacer33
Dakotah, Under full compression, does the rear drivetrain bind up on your SCTE 2.0? When I push the rear wheels up, shocks fully compressed, the wheels completely lock up.
The drivetrain doesn't move freely under full compression like that, but your shocks should never be able to get to that point when driving. I have never had any issues on the track or had this affect the vehicle at all.
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Old 06-04-2014, 03:49 PM
  #6838  
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
High Bite: 7-7-5

Medium Bite: 5-5-3

Low Bite: 3-3-2
I'll try 3-3-2 this weekend at my local low bite track.

Curious if you would recommend the same for 1/8 ebuggy?

Thx!
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Old 06-04-2014, 03:54 PM
  #6839  
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Originally Posted by skrichter
I'll try 3-3-2 this weekend at my local low bite track.

Curious if you would recommend the same for 1/8 ebuggy?

Thx!
No, not that thin for buggy.
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Old 06-05-2014, 05:22 AM
  #6840  
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has been a long time since my last post.
car is holding up very good, taking into consideration that i am a very clumsy driver. have some minor parts on order for security reasons as there is no distributor in greece and i would not want to be without a car in case of a failure.
this is my second body shell. i do not intend to use it for racing.
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