JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

Losi.

bmitch282

alright im running a 1.0.. im looking into getting the mip pro4mance kit and then the pro8 to be able to switch back and forth periodically.... im sure the mip kit will have plenty of the balancing affect as well right?

bmitch282

"rear shock spring tuning kit" losb2963??

Errokk

iTrader: (13)

I've driven a few of the mip's and didn't care for them at all compared to the 2.0!
I've also never seen one of them out perform a 2.0.
Just my .02

CTEKTOOL

iTrader: (5)

I'm just getting ready to build my new 2.0. Are there any upgrades that are a must.

hkrob

iTrader: (18)

Nope no upgrades needed out of the box. But you might want to get the front & rear TLR spring kits depending on your setup.

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

Get the hpi screws for the diffs they will save you frustration in the long run. Hpiz449. Also like hkrob said get the option springs and use the latest Dunford setup here for most track conditions:
http://www.casper-rc.com/images/TEN_..._13_reduce.pdf

Dakotah Phend

You could try thicker oil if you think the rear is bottoming out going up the jumps.

LosiRacer33

iTrader: (3)

Dakotah, Under full compression, does the rear drivetrain bind up on your SCTE 2.0? When I push the rear wheels up, shocks fully compressed, the wheels completely lock up.

skrichter

iTrader: (13)

Has anyone tested the new front Aluminum carriers (TLR334017)

I would like to know how much more steering throw there is.

http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...le-Carrier-2mm

Casper

iTrader: (34)

There were a few guys that gave reviews a few pages back. All positive from what I read. I am not sure anyone has a quantitive answer to how much more steering throw you get.

drepus

I added an 1/8" spacer to the outside of the rear shock shafts to keep the driveshafts from binding in the outdrives at full suspension compression. I am running the middle hole on the arm.
There where small marks on the driveshafts from contact with the outdrives and I could feel a little bind when fully compressed. Not a large amount but I wanted to eliminate it.

ironzgti35

iTrader: (33)

My 2.0 doesn't react in the air as well and most others I drive. With the layouts of local tracks this year I've run into several sections where I need to correct in the air (up or down on the front end) and the truck just doesn't do it. My thinking is that is may not even be the truck but my esc. RX8 settings are pretty soft on current limiter and brake strength (they are about 45 or 50).

Truck is fine 90% of the time with the settings I run but if I'm in the air and grab brake, the kit barely brings the nose down and vise verse if I need to grab throttle. Any ideas or changes you can think of.....

Casper

iTrader: (34)

You should not need to run your settings that low. You should be able to turn stuff up and still have control. I run my cl at 80 and breaks about 60-65

SoCalMX

iTrader: (5)

Ok, yesterday I spent 6+ hours completely rebuilding my 2.0 complete with new chassis (cracked at rear), new MIP Puck drives, all 3 diffs were redone with new bearings, shocks serviced, new TLR alloy caster block replaced (driver side broke, Ryan D handed me a replacement at the track, THANKS!) etc...

Last week I had my H-wing SCT Pro ESC catch fire. I will be taking better care of this almost new setup. My question is, what steps can I take to avoid a catastrophe like this from happening again? I am not sure why my truck ran so hot? How long per outing should I be running my truck? I am fairly new and we typically run until the battery dies which is 12mins +~...