goehm

iTrader: (45)

I still don't understand the spacers, seems they aren't needed to compensate for machining differences (IE: the spur won't rub without them, right?) but perhaps to account for the differences in chassis thickness. The last I heard was that they lower the center of gravity.

I understand the concept as follows: If you put spacer between the chassis and the mounting points (IE: under gearboxes) the effect is it'll push the chassis and all components mounted directly the the chassis closer the the ground, thereby lowering the COG.

If true, then why don't you just skip the spacers and adjust ride height to compensate?

My brain. It hurts. What am I missing?

ChuckTee

I will ask this question here because I believe I will get a better group of answers from you guys, how much of a legit difference do you think there is between the Tenshock SC411 4600kv and the Tekin 4300HD? They are both 4 pole 550 can sensored motors, I have never ran the HD just the SC411 hoping some of you guys can give me some info. Like I said I ask here as opposed to the Tekin thread just because I know everyone here is cool and it wont be a flame war. Dont wanna start no drama just wanna know.

Rickybob

Stick with the tenshock and save your money, can't see any real difference in the two of them, if anything the tenshock is faster

boudin4evr

iTrader: (18)

after reading about the spacers on BCE chassis, why nit mill the chassis higher in just those areas, kind of like putting 1mm washers in those areas, only downfall is getting dirty under there? BCE chasis are a work of art, I hadnt seen the spacers
what are they made of? delrin?

boudin4evr

iTrader: (18)

www.avidrc.com
they sale bearing kits vehicle specific!

fq06

iTrader: (12)

Additional machining would push the price up I would think. I believe they are delrin. They are some kind of plastic kind of material.

@goehm

Lowering ride height does lower CG I guess but then you are losing some of your suspension travel. It is more of how high the components are in relation to the suspension pick up points. Kind of like when manufacturers started laying servos down on the chassis to drop the CG a decade ago.

I ran the pre-production BCE chassis for a few months without the spacers and didn't have any issues with the chassis. When I put the T1-14 (production chassis) chassis in I did assemble with the spacers just because. I can't say if I noticed any change because I made multiple other changes at the same time.

I will pull the spacers half way through the day and not change setup to see if there is a noticeable difference in handling this weekend and as long as it does not take away from performance I will run it like that to stress test it and make sure there is not a durability issue without them.

jhautz

iTrader: (86)

I had a similar experience a few weeks ago I was racing and the track was particularly slick. Just dusty and it wouldn't hold any moisture or traction so all day I was searching for traction. Was struggling pretty hard and qualifying about middle of the 15 truck class. My EB48 was hooked up though and the only thing I could think was the extra weight gave it better traction. On a whim I decided to strap a 2nd battery into the truck. (two 2s 6000mah packs) It wasn't plugged in, just added a ton of weight. I had to adjust the ride height but other than that it really made the truck easy to drive. With the extra weight in the 3rd qualifier I wound up moving all the way up to qualifying 2nd overall and then got 2nd in the main by a pretty good margin over 3rd place. Only guy to beat me was the local Tekno sponsored driver who is pretty much unbeatable so I was pretty darn happy with that result.

Anyway. Lighter isn't always better IMO.

tc5 man

Well i have not tried out the Hobbywing motor which is lighter than the 550 Tenshock motor but the thing is with the Tenshock on the SCT Pro esc. Even if you turn down the punch control to a number (3) you cant use a 16t it just has to much amps i would know lol.

I dont know where you buy Tenshock motors really in the USA anymore.

kman16jr

iTrader: (56)

I think Casterracingparts.com sell them.

tc5 man

I looked at there website they dont have them anymore it looks like. They draw to many amps anyways on the stock sct410 at least. There not bad motors though i ran my on a scte and the Mip one with a BH (copy Hobbywing esc ) and it never drawed to many amps with higher gearing.

kman16jr

iTrader: (56)

its what i run in my stock sct410.

toast.

iTrader: (14)

Here are pics of the BCE v2, Rear gasket is in, mid and front are not.
(Sorry for bad pics, if you need a different angle let me know.)

Gaskets


Rear Gasket


Rear Gasket 2


Center No Gasket


Center No Gasket 2


Front No Gasket

ChuckTee

You can get the Tenshocks at Express rc hobbies www.expressrchobbies.com, they still have them and that is where I got mine from. I love the way it runs paired with my RX8g2, I run a 16t with no issues. Glad I gave it a chance.

ltzerge

Hello SCT410 users, I just got my kit in the mail and have been working on assembling it. I got the entire front and rear together last night, but I have a couple questions

Is there a simple way to get the balls into the captured ends? I only have experience with the traxxas ends and with those I just press them onto the ball at an angle and they pop in, but trying that with these takes an insane amount of force. I got them on but they're fairly tight. Is it mandatory to trim the inside of the ends first?

Also, using the SCTE offset F11 beadlocks I have they rub on the carriers upper corners. Is this a common issue? I can file them down to clear but I'm not sure if something else is a-foot. Using the normal offset aluminum hexes (not the thicker option). I got the wheels under the assumption wheels for the SCTE work on the tekno.

I also managed to screw up the center-diff because I didn't get all the air out, but the screws thread so tight I might have to slot them to take them out, but that's totally my fault because I'm an idiot. After that first step I took to pre-threading everything before assembly so nothing else has that issue.

Hoese37

iTrader: (5)

I used a slip joint pliers to get mine in. They should snap in. They will loosen up after a little bit, but you can use some type of lube on then to free them up now. Not sure about the wheel rub tho. I would assume its due to the wheel being thicker on the back bead for the lock. Getting some normal glue on wheels would fix that issue.