Slapjack

iTrader: (19)

Can someone tell me if the '14, & '15 use the same front and rear drive shafts and what the lengths are and what part numbers I should be looking at getting? I know the front on my '14 is 68mm, not sure about rears. I am not home to check and want to order new ones right now. I see a set for the '15 on ebay but wasn't sure if they are the same.

rraden

iTrader: (259)

I've owned and driven the 13/14/15 models and the 15 model is the best for me. With the 15 you have the option of running saddle packs or shorty's. In my experience moving the motor from the front half of the vehicle to the back half created a better balanced vehicle and improved overall handling. Nothing wrong with the 13 or 14 model other than the rear end likes to step out easier.

gticlay

iTrader: (14)

You'll probably want to invest in a 6.5 turn motor. I can get 15 minutes on an indoor clay track without any over heating, etc with a 4500 shorty and no races are that long.

gticlay

iTrader: (14)

Here's a setup you might want to try that I found on the xray website. I think Bentka said they are ending up with same diff weights front and rear so I may try this at my local(ish) clay track with 7K front and rear. Anyway, thought this might be interesting.

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...setup=xb4_2016

gticlay

iTrader: (14)

Thanks for doing this, by the way. I measured my car with the Xray 12mm front wheels and with the TLR 22-4 wheels (I've been racing it since release so I have a TON of those wheels) and appears xray uses the same offset in their wheel as TLR does. Very good news for me. I probably don't have as nice of measuring equipment as you do, but someone else mentioned that the car was stock 245mm width with the TLR wheels and the +0.75 hex, I wanted to check that out for myself.

Here's my car too.

BentKa

Meausurements will vary with ride height, toe-in, bump steer etc.

Bent

djbxp

Thank you for your response, but the issue now is the motor size, rotor size and KV Selection. Too many parameters to choose

Savox says KV for their motor 6.5
http://www.savoxusa.com/Savox_6_5T_S...vblh365065.htm

Hobbywind Xerun 6.5T says KV 3650 - 5200 (???)
http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-c-sd-6-5t-3650-blue.html

Turnigy Trackstar 6,5T IS 5150KV
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...or_5150KV.html

Reesy Sonic 6,5T is 540 size but no KV Rating.

What about size? 540 VS 550 ?
Poles?? i saw somewhere 3...
Rotor Size ? What about all that ?
Also what pinion gears i will need?

mojo tom

Don't worry about KV rating for 1/10th, 6.5 will vary from brand to brand.
20 or 21 pinion will work fine for 6.5, just need to check temps and lower number of teeth in case it get too hot that's it.
Motor size is 540. 6.5 is powerful enough in most cases and you could add timing if you need more power.
Coming from 1/10th I was a bit lost regarding KV and gearing for 1/8th e-buggy, you should be lost as well regarding 1/10th motors and gearing but overall it is very simple, check your temp and adjust to taste.
If you plan to run more than 5mn runs, then go for a 20T.

seth556

iTrader: (43)

I hear that setup is pretty good The biggest things I've learned from it is the hard front spring, soft rear, and heavy-ish shock oil. That all makes the car super easy to drive. I was running 8/8k oils but the rear had too much drive in the sweepers, the 6k made it easier to manage. The car is super good, everyone who has driven it has either wondered what they need to do to make their car drive like mine or wonder how much they can sell their car for so they can buy an XB4.


Don't worry about the Kv rating. For sensored motors it's a pointless rating because as you move the timing up and down the Kv will jump all over the place. The Kv will probably jump a few thousand from minimal timing to full timing. Most likely you want a 6.5t, I usually turn my EPA down unless it's a giant track.

symmetricon

iTrader: (27)

Bummer... first day with the car...

suby723

iTrader: (21)

Honestly with this know issue this could be a major factor to push people to getting a yokomo unfortunately. Mine was perfect through the first race day but If this is going to be an issue I will not own this car for very long if I have to replace gears every weekend.

symmetricon

iTrader: (27)

Although IMO it shouldn't have broken I didn't take the time to setup up my cars electronic settings. I had the brakes set way to strong and I race on super high bite clay with dirt glue sprayed on it. It stopped hard enough to cartwheel. I fully admit this was my fault not having my brakes setup correctly...


Fortunately the car runs fantastically, hands down more.corner speed than any other wheeler I've driven... I started with Bayers clay setup and found the oils and springs way to light... went back to stock springs and shock locations 1.6x2 hole 40wt 1.7x2 hole 35wt and it was excellent, the rest was Bayers setup...

symmetricon

iTrader: (27)

First day with the the car and I ran my fastest lap ever and also ran the fastest in race lap.... not a coincidence. ...

suby723

iTrader: (21)

I completely agree. The 16 is the faster car I have ever owned and driven. I'm also very anxious to get my hands on the xb2 also.

symmetricon

iTrader: (27)

Likewise, I'll definitely own the xb2, I have very high expectations after driving the 16', in fact I plan on switching to an all xray fleet...