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Old 01-03-2016, 02:02 PM   #9856
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How are you guys experiencing drivetrain wear? Do you think it's too high?
No, none on carpet and astro. Slipper set to 0.5mm.
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Old 01-03-2016, 02:10 PM   #9857
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No, none on carpet and astro. Slipper set to 0.5mm.
So how exactly do you measure the slipper for 0.5mm?

The manual seems a bit off to me, measuring between the set screw and the outdrive like the manual states seems impossible to achieve 0mm.
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Old 01-03-2016, 03:11 PM   #9858
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How are you guys experiencing drivetrain wear? Do you think it's too high?
i am the same as the other guy. on my 14 and 15 spec i went a whole year and didnt have to replace anything drivetran wise. in fact I used the center diff the whole time i had it with the 15spec and using it now with the 16spec and have not needed to even change the outdrives yet.
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Old 01-03-2016, 03:42 PM   #9859
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thanks for your work on this and bent aswell. so just so i am understanding this right, its both .75 xray hexs for the front and rear correct. and if i am understanding the chart right using the exotek hexs the fronts are close with 5mm but the rears with 7.5 are way off, about 3mm off right?? thanks again guys
Exotek hex combinations will give you either a 243 or 247mm track width (depending on wheel chosen) per their site. The 14mm stock hexes will give you 245mm (per Bent's measurements), and getting the same with XRAY's 12mm hexes will require using the +0.75mm.
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Old 01-03-2016, 03:53 PM   #9860
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Keep the drive pins fresh, and make sure the shafts do not rub on the outdrives, and they will last.

I have picked up a few cars, where someone doesn't know what a drive pin is. So, take it as you see it..
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Old 01-03-2016, 10:07 PM   #9861
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Ran a 2016 today and OMG is all I can say. It was WAAAAYYYYY better than my D413. Even with the kit included hard parts on our low bite track it felt pretty good. The car is really easy to drive. I can't wait to get mine and get it ready for upcoming big races.
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Old 01-03-2016, 10:27 PM   #9862
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Originally Posted by randy0025 View Post
thanks for your work on this and bent aswell. so just so i am understanding this right, its both .75 xray hexs for the front and rear correct. and if i am understanding the chart right using the exotek hexs the fronts are close with 5mm but the rears with 7.5 are way off, about 3mm off right?? thanks again guys
However, most if not all new setups call for the +1.5mm out back. So you will probably want to get a set of those for the rear.
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Old 01-03-2016, 11:27 PM   #9863
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I need some clarifications to proceed with my ordering for the XB4 16', because of the amount of options i guess. i'm coming from XB8 nitro.

1. I have read through the posts and noticed that motors talk are in "turns" and not in "KV". So, no brush-less motor is used? Is the brushed motor recommended?
What would be a fair brushed combo motor+ESC (and what turns?) and a fair brushless combo motor+ESC (and what KV)? Also please comment on "sensored" brushless motor.
2. What pinions i will need and how i will know that will be compatible with the center diff in terms of teeth compatibility? (narrow spacing tooth or wide spacing tooth?)
3. Battery setup? Shorty or long? What are the options and how to choose how to build?
4. Servo? Size? torque: kg/cm? Speed?
5. Is the 5-4-2 diffs ok?
6. What wheel hexes are recommended to have handy? 1,5 & 2 ?
7. What else i will need to complete ?

Thanks a lot!
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Old 01-04-2016, 12:17 AM   #9864
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Originally Posted by Vincent_Diesel View Post
So how exactly do you measure the slipper for 0.5mm?

The manual seems a bit off to me, measuring between the set screw and the outdrive like the manual states seems impossible to achieve 0mm.
You are supposed to measure the gap. I just used a 0.5mm TLR ballstud spacer and loosened until it just touched. Viola!
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Old 01-04-2016, 12:21 AM   #9865
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djbxp View Post
I need some clarifications to proceed with my ordering for the XB4 16', because of the amount of options i guess. i'm coming from XB8 nitro.

1. I have read through the posts and noticed that motors talk are in "turns" and not in "KV". So, no brush-less motor is used? Is the brushed motor recommended?
What would be a fair brushed combo motor+ESC (and what turns?) and a fair brushless combo motor+ESC (and what KV)? Also please comment on "sensored" brushless motor.
2. What pinions i will need and how i will know that will be compatible with the center diff in terms of teeth compatibility? (narrow spacing tooth or wide spacing tooth?)
3. Battery setup? Shorty or long? What are the options and how to choose how to build?
4. Servo? Size? torque: kg/cm? Speed?
5. Is the 5-4-2 diffs ok?
6. What wheel hexes are recommended to have handy? 1,5 & 2 ?
7. What else i will need to complete ?

Thanks a lot!
1. All normal motors for 1/10 buggy are sensored (ORCA, Tekin, Orion, LRP, Hobbywing +++++) and are measured in Turns that stem from the old brushed days.
For 4WD modified go for a 6.5T. This will be good for both indoors and outdoors.
Regarding brands of motor and ESC you will get as many suggestions as there are drivers
What is your budget ?

2. For a 6.5T you will ned a 21 pinion for 540 size motor. They are 48P.

3. XB4 '16 only accepts a shorty battery. Choose a 4600mAh or larger capacity to give you some run time.

4. Any normal standard servo aimed at 1/10 buggy will do. Pick your favorite.

5. No. What surface do you run on ? For dirt and using the center diff go 5 / 500.000 / 3 as a start.

6. If using the standard 14mm wheels that come with the kit. None. Use the standard hexes. They will get you a long way.

7. The usual; paint, tires, radio gear and oils for diffs (8000cst is included in kit)

If running on low to medium traction dirt or clay we recommend to use these parts:

#361265 Medium side guards (hard is standard)
#361295 Medium rear chassis brace (hard is standard)
#361294 Medium front chassis brace (hard is standard)
#368284 1 dot rear springs
#368183 1 dot front springs

This transforms the car in terms of flex and mechanical grip and takes out the twitchiness it will have if you run the hard parts and stock springs on lower grip tracks.

Bent
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Old 01-04-2016, 12:27 AM   #9866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vincent_Diesel View Post
So how exactly do you measure the slipper for 0.5mm?

The manual seems a bit off to me, measuring between the set screw and the outdrive like the manual states seems impossible to achieve 0mm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gticlay View Post
You are supposed to measure the gap. I just used a 0.5mm TLR ballstud spacer and loosened until it just touched. Viola!
As gticlay says you measure the gap between the adjusting nut and the outdrive.

In the illustration in the manual it's set to 0mm.



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Old 01-04-2016, 04:50 AM   #9867
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saw some guys running these on their xb4's this weekend at my local indoor carpet track. seemed to really plant the car for them.

http://www.krazedbuilds.com/xcart/20...pper-deck.html
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Old 01-04-2016, 06:39 AM   #9868
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saw some guys running these on their xb4's this weekend at my local indoor carpet track. seemed to really plant the car for them.

http://www.krazedbuilds.com/xcart/20...pper-deck.html
Works much better without top decks on the '16

That's what it's been designed for and what the team has been testing the last 1.5 years

We only run the small carbon steering brace connecting the steering posts, so we remove the front X-brace as well and run completely without top decks.

Much better handling and you can push the car much harder and it still stays very forgiving.

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Old 01-04-2016, 06:50 AM   #9869
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Originally Posted by Robbob View Post
saw some guys running these on their xb4's this weekend at my local indoor carpet track. seemed to really plant the car for them.

http://www.krazedbuilds.com/xcart/20...pper-deck.html
We just got away from these, we don't want them back...
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Old 01-04-2016, 06:59 AM   #9870
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We just got away from these, we don't want them back...
Exactly……new '16 is designed to run without and performs much better without

So these are a total waste of money…….

Bent
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