5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
05-18-2012, 10:13 AM
Tech Regular
27$ for a bunch of diaphrams? What are they made of, spun gold?
05-18-2012, 10:15 AM
05-18-2012, 10:37 AM
To anyone who has PMd me or needed help regarding customer service claims/questions:
I am no longer working for Team Associated, if you have questions please contact the customer service department at: [email protected] or 949-544-7500.
Thanks,
Chris Jarosz
I am no longer working for Team Associated, if you have questions please contact the customer service department at: [email protected] or 949-544-7500.
Thanks,
Chris Jarosz
05-18-2012, 11:16 AM
Tech Adept
Me too. Superglued clicker... time for gears...
05-18-2012, 11:27 AM
Tech Adept
[QUOTE=CraigMBA;10747352]Thank you. Sure. I didn't have any aluminum handy by, so I made it out of mild steel. I need to get my hands on a couple of 3mm countersunk screws and it'll be done. I can make it a lot smaller, but I want to put the screws in first. Exactly 7mm. Even like this, there is tons less bending force on the ball stud with the larger base than when it was just the spacers. With the other screw in it, it will be like the spacer isn't even there.
Awesome! Thanks!
Looks great
see earlier pics, QUOTE]
Awesome! Thanks!
Looks great
see earlier pics, QUOTE]
05-18-2012, 11:47 AM
05-18-2012, 12:18 PM
new build diff q?
Hey y'all, been building my FT for the last couple of nights and found that this thread shortly after building most of the truck. I'm looking at a few scenarios such as rear diff shims becoming concaved and am wondering should I shim it now before I run it - the way it sits now there is little to no play. And the same question for the front?
Thanks!
Thanks!
05-18-2012, 12:31 PM
you want a 0.3 mm shim, the stock shim is 0.2mm for your reference.
I believe mine is clicking again but 'f' it, I'll fix it when I get around to it LOL.
I believe mine is clicking again but 'f' it, I'll fix it when I get around to it LOL.
05-18-2012, 12:52 PM
Tech Adept
Hey y'all, been building my FT for the last couple of nights and found that this thread shortly after building most of the truck. I'm looking at a few scenarios such as rear diff shims becoming concaved and am wondering should I shim it now before I run it - the way it sits now there is little to no play. And the same question for the front?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Limit the front and rear suspension travel now (to prevent contact / overtravel between A-arms and outdrives).
Tighten the front clicker full tight.
Leave the servo saver as loose as possible, and lubricate it.
I presume you have the chassis brace rod with this kit?
I've grown fond of packing my bearings with lucas oil treatment & waterproof grease, but I don't know of any other right-minded human that does this.
Caution on long screw length at slipper clutch. Overly long screw can cause unwanted rubbing.
The suspension setup in the manual sucks. Check the setup of a team racer.
After you test it a while, having lead available to add would save some frustration.
Hope this helps, and I hope this doesn't earn me the dead-puppy award...
05-18-2012, 01:02 PM
....palladium... ain't that fancy!!!!
05-18-2012, 01:03 PM
i have a clicking sound in my differential. will putting shims in the differential stop the clicking noise i am having? if so is there a part number for the differential shims?
05-18-2012, 02:10 PM
search the thread for ofna shim or xray shim . You probably could get the shims from mcmaster as well just punch in your size requirements.
05-18-2012, 02:13 PM
Shim it tight now
Limit the front and rear suspension travel now (to prevent contact / overtravel between A-arms and outdrives).
Tighten the front clicker full tight.
Leave the servo saver as loose as possible, and lubricate it.
I presume you have the chassis brace rod with this kit?
I've grown fond of packing my bearings with lucas oil treatment & waterproof grease, but I don't know of any other right-minded human that does this.
Caution on long screw length at slipper clutch. Overly long screw can cause unwanted rubbing.
The suspension setup in the manual sucks. Check the setup of a team racer.
After you test it a while, having lead available to add would save some frustration.
Hope this helps, and I hope this doesn't earn me the dead-puppy award...
Limit the front and rear suspension travel now (to prevent contact / overtravel between A-arms and outdrives).
Tighten the front clicker full tight.
Leave the servo saver as loose as possible, and lubricate it.
I presume you have the chassis brace rod with this kit?
I've grown fond of packing my bearings with lucas oil treatment & waterproof grease, but I don't know of any other right-minded human that does this.
Caution on long screw length at slipper clutch. Overly long screw can cause unwanted rubbing.
The suspension setup in the manual sucks. Check the setup of a team racer.
After you test it a while, having lead available to add would save some frustration.
Hope this helps, and I hope this doesn't earn me the dead-puppy award...
05-18-2012, 02:17 PM
I picked up some traxxas 1985 shims for the diffs, they're .05 which should be perfect since the stock ones are .02 and your supposed to add .03. At least that what I gather. Please correct me if I wrong.
Thanks!
Thanks!
05-18-2012, 02:28 PM
Sorry.... You want 0.3 INSTEAD of 0.2mm, not on top of 0.2mm. The shimming inside the diff, with brand new gears and case, is 0.6mm total. Anything more than that and you end up with parasitic drag. (At least, in the 4 that I have built, those were the tolerances)
If your gears are already worn from slipping (the clicking noise people get inside their diffs) then you might be able to shim to 0.8mm or even 1mm total....but with new gears, you want 0.3mm per side to get 0.6mm of shimming.
If your gears are already worn from slipping (the clicking noise people get inside their diffs) then you might be able to shim to 0.8mm or even 1mm total....but with new gears, you want 0.3mm per side to get 0.6mm of shimming.