RC10B4.1 FT/WC
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
Look at tires. Tires. Tires. They MUST be broken in well and use some grip to help. Look at what everyone else at your track is using. make sure you glued your servo savor nicely bc that can be causing you sometimes pushing or spinning but it sounds like new tires
ik this feeling, take em to some sandpaper to speed up the break in. Grip definatly helps the break in also, some wd40 softens the tires up also but don't overdo it. Try coating it a day b4 you race and throwing them in a bag. If you want cheap grip, go 50% denatured alchohal, 50% wd40. It works better since it dries much more quickly.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (3)
no I wouldn't change setup much.
Look at tires. Tires. Tires. They MUST be broken in well and use some grip to help. Look at what everyone else at your track is using. make sure you glued your servo savor nicely bc that can be causing you sometimes pushing or spinning but it sounds like new tires
ik this feeling, take em to some sandpaper to speed up the break in. Grip definatly helps the break in also, some wd40 softens the tires up also but don't overdo it. Try coating it a day b4 you race and throwing them in a bag. If you want cheap grip, go 50% denatured alchohal, 50% wd40. It works better since it dries much more quickly.
Look at tires. Tires. Tires. They MUST be broken in well and use some grip to help. Look at what everyone else at your track is using. make sure you glued your servo savor nicely bc that can be causing you sometimes pushing or spinning but it sounds like new tires
ik this feeling, take em to some sandpaper to speed up the break in. Grip definatly helps the break in also, some wd40 softens the tires up also but don't overdo it. Try coating it a day b4 you race and throwing them in a bag. If you want cheap grip, go 50% denatured alchohal, 50% wd40. It works better since it dries much more quickly.
Bored, so I took some pictures. Car is still covered in astro/rcp fuzz, so it looks a little odd. Tired of blue. V2's>Big Bores on astro...
Still need to buy a new MyLaps so I can dremel the chassis, put the transponder in front of the servo, and re-do the wiring on the RX side of the car. That and a Lundsford screw kit and I will be happy.
Still need to buy a new MyLaps so I can dremel the chassis, put the transponder in front of the servo, and re-do the wiring on the RX side of the car. That and a Lundsford screw kit and I will be happy.
no I wouldn't change setup much.
Look at tires. Tires. Tires. They MUST be broken in well and use some grip to help. Look at what everyone else at your track is using. make sure you glued your servo savor nicely bc that can be causing you sometimes pushing or spinning but it sounds like new tires
ik this feeling, take em to some sandpaper to speed up the break in. Grip definatly helps the break in also, some wd40 softens the tires up also but don't overdo it. Try coating it a day b4 you race and throwing them in a bag. If you want cheap grip, go 50% denatured alchohal, 50% wd40. It works better since it dries much more quickly.
Look at tires. Tires. Tires. They MUST be broken in well and use some grip to help. Look at what everyone else at your track is using. make sure you glued your servo savor nicely bc that can be causing you sometimes pushing or spinning but it sounds like new tires
ik this feeling, take em to some sandpaper to speed up the break in. Grip definatly helps the break in also, some wd40 softens the tires up also but don't overdo it. Try coating it a day b4 you race and throwing them in a bag. If you want cheap grip, go 50% denatured alchohal, 50% wd40. It works better since it dries much more quickly.
If his setup is way off then that is the problem. If when putting the car together he just tried to make his own setup, this is likely the case. He needs to find a setup from a track that is similar to where he runs, or copy the setup of someone local whose car drives how he likes.
Every adjustment does something. If you are mistaken as to what those adjustments really do, and you make some weird combination of settings the car will be terrible.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (3)
A touch of subtlety, exactly how color accents should be done. Last car that was done in red that I saw posted here had a bit too much for me. Every aluminum part was red.
He said that he was on the same tires as all the fast guys. M4 Suburbs, which are already really soft. Any softer and the tires will probably be squirmy.
If his setup is way off then that is the problem. If when putting the car together he just tried to make his own setup, this is likely the case. He needs to find a setup from a track that is similar to where he runs, or copy the setup of someone local whose car drives how he likes.
Every adjustment does something. If you are mistaken as to what those adjustments really do, and you make some weird combination of settings the car will be terrible.
He said that he was on the same tires as all the fast guys. M4 Suburbs, which are already really soft. Any softer and the tires will probably be squirmy.
If his setup is way off then that is the problem. If when putting the car together he just tried to make his own setup, this is likely the case. He needs to find a setup from a track that is similar to where he runs, or copy the setup of someone local whose car drives how he likes.
Every adjustment does something. If you are mistaken as to what those adjustments really do, and you make some weird combination of settings the car will be terrible.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (72)
Like drummer said, you gotta break tires in for them to work. Take them out on the street and break them in a little.
I know WCRC Raceway, is "some of the best traction in the US" but the time where my tires work best is when they get to the point where after a run you have that fat line in the middle of the tires, almost completely worn out. Even though there is minimal tire wear at WC
I know WCRC Raceway, is "some of the best traction in the US" but the time where my tires work best is when they get to the point where after a run you have that fat line in the middle of the tires, almost completely worn out. Even though there is minimal tire wear at WC
So I took my new buggy to the track today and for the most part was very happy with it. Took me a little bit to get used to as it's my first 2wd buggy but I started to get the hang of it. The only problem I was having was with the rear end; it had no traction. The buggy was sliding way too easily and it wasn't my driving because I had one of the employees drive it and he had the same issue. He tq's and wins the stock class almost every week so it's definitely not his driving either. The slipper seems ok, not too tight, not too loose and I turned the punch down but not much change. I'm also running m4 suburbs, the most common tire at my track. I had the same guy take a closer look at it and he said the rear end is sitting way too high; the rear arms actually a tad above level. He suggested using a larger anti-squat shim for 3.5 degrees to get the rear end down. Can I just stack the anti-squat shims? He also suggested adding some rear toe. Without buying new hubs, can I just use one of the different arm mounts to add some toe in?
I'm running the standard setup with the exception of -2 degrees camber front and rear (suggestion from another driver). The buggy seemed to push quite a bit in the turns as well, that is when it wasn't spinning out lol.
I really want to get this thing dialed which I know takes time but I want to at least start heading in the right direction so I'm really looking for some more input on setup. The track is smooth, wet, slippery, indoor clay.
I'm running the standard setup with the exception of -2 degrees camber front and rear (suggestion from another driver). The buggy seemed to push quite a bit in the turns as well, that is when it wasn't spinning out lol.
I really want to get this thing dialed which I know takes time but I want to at least start heading in the right direction so I'm really looking for some more input on setup. The track is smooth, wet, slippery, indoor clay.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (3)
Since everything else seems to be accounted for, My guess would be the diff or slipper is not adjusted properly. If the diff is too tight it can create a posi-traction effect. So when you try to accelerate out of a corner both wheels are spinning at the same speed causing a loss of traction and thus a spin out. Happened to me in the past. Having one of the fast guys set my diff properly did wonders for traction.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Like drummer said, you gotta break tires in for them to work. Take them out on the street and break them in a little.
I know WCRC Raceway, is "some of the best traction in the US" but the time where my tires work best is when they get to the point where after a run you have that fat line in the middle of the tires, almost completely worn out. Even though there is minimal tire wear at WC
I know WCRC Raceway, is "some of the best traction in the US" but the time where my tires work best is when they get to the point where after a run you have that fat line in the middle of the tires, almost completely worn out. Even though there is minimal tire wear at WC
I would say yes it could have a similar effect because the one wheel would be spinning faster than it should while cornering, again causing the buggy to loose traction. But i could be way off here.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (38)
[QUOTE=R.Shackleford;11585410]A touch of subtlety, exactly how color accents should be done. Last car that was done in red that I saw posted here had a bit too much for me. Every aluminum part was red.QUOTE]
A touch of subtlety, exactly how opinions should be done...
J/k bro, I like your style.
Its not ALL red!
A touch of subtlety, exactly how opinions should be done...
J/k bro, I like your style.
Its not ALL red!
Tech Elite
iTrader: (72)
That's why after I mount up fresh tires I take them to the parking lot and do donuts
Tech Addict
iTrader: (3)
I followed the instructions very closely and used the standard setup. After running for a little bit at the track, a couple people suggested adding some more negative camber so I did. Beyond that, I changed nothing. I actually did ask one of the guys I know that runs there if he could send me a copy of his setup sheet as his buggy is always dialed. He hasn't gotten it to me yet.
If something is an opinion of mine I usually will not beat everyone over the head with it. If whatever I am stating is a fact, and nobody else has posted what is clearly the fact, then I am not so subtle. Case in point, Kellens post about the tires taking a long time to break in at WCRC. My factual response is to run the new pre-broken in Bro Codes. That or bust some sweet donuts in the parking lot (which others have mentioned).
Does anyone make a hard wing for 10th scale buggies? Something like what is on the ebuggys.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
Before you change anything significant ride height makes a significant difference. 24mm front and rear is pretty common. You can have the setup spot on but if radio and speed control arent right your car will feel like junk too. These are even more critical in 2wd buggy than any other class.