RC10B4.1 FT/WC
12-23-2012, 07:04 AM
yea gene those inserts have to break in and at my track we use those along with blue barcodes and golds and they all work best when there is close to no tread. Yes.
12-23-2012, 07:28 AM
Tire/insert break in may be the issue. Like others have mentioned, bar style tires need to be broken in. The PL CC inserts are very stiff when new, and take a good while to hit the sweet spot. You can speed up the insert break in by saucing the tires, wrapping them in Saran Wrap, then placing them in a Ziploc bag. Do this at least 3 days before your next race. Let them sit for a day in the bag, then put them back on the car and let them breathe for a couple days. The Saran Wrap will force almost all the sauce into the tire. The more sauce the tire absorbs, the more the foam will absorb. The more the foam absorbs, the more it will break down/in. Be careful, as too long with the Saran Wrap and the foam will be too soft. And not letting the tire breathe for long enough will make the rubber too soft. Also make sure wherever the tires are sitting for the post-marinade breathe is a "smell isolated area" as to not upset anyone else in the household.
Bro Codes?
You're right, the rear hubs are not red. I know when doing a one off build like that it is as much about the hunt for parts as it is the end result. If it were me, I would have just done the parts that were normally FT blue, and had everything else black or raw aluminum. But like I said before beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
If something is an opinion of mine I usually will not beat everyone over the head with it. If whatever I am stating is a fact, and nobody else has posted what is clearly the fact, then I am not so subtle. Case in point, Kellens post about the tires taking a long time to break in at WCRC. My factual response is to run the new pre-broken in Bro Codes. That or bust some sweet donuts in the parking lot (which others have mentioned).
Bro Codes?
You're right, the rear hubs are not red. I know when doing a one off build like that it is as much about the hunt for parts as it is the end result. If it were me, I would have just done the parts that were normally FT blue, and had everything else black or raw aluminum. But like I said before beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
If something is an opinion of mine I usually will not beat everyone over the head with it. If whatever I am stating is a fact, and nobody else has posted what is clearly the fact, then I am not so subtle. Case in point, Kellens post about the tires taking a long time to break in at WCRC. My factual response is to run the new pre-broken in Bro Codes. That or bust some sweet donuts in the parking lot (which others have mentioned).
12-23-2012, 07:30 AM
12-23-2012, 07:38 AM
Before you change anything significant ride height makes a significant difference. 24mm front and rear is pretty common. You can have the setup spot on but if radio and speed control arent right your car will feel like junk too. These are even more critical in 2wd buggy than any other class.
12-23-2012, 07:44 AM
Last week, I asked for some opinions on which motor to get for my buggy. I was originally thinking of going with 10.5 because I thought I would get bored with 17.5. I just want to say thank you to all the people who steered me towards 17.5. It is absolutely plenty of motor and I'm confident it will benefit me in the long run.
12-23-2012, 08:10 AM
I guess it can't hurt to try that. As I said in my original post, most people use m4 suburbs at my track so that's what I went with. I didn't use the foams that came with the tires though, I bought the proline closed cell front and rear and they seem pretty stiff. I'm wondering if maybe they're too stiff or something.
If you want I can PM you my setup. Are you running a shorty or full pack? and you are running standard springs?
12-23-2012, 08:35 AM
Open cells will help. I ran very worn M4 up front with many rounds of tire juice on them (sticky to say the least) and pink beams out back with open cells. Probably not the fastest setup, but my buggy was planted and I made the A.
If you want I can PM you my setup. Are you running a shorty or full pack? and you are running standard springs?
If you want I can PM you my setup. Are you running a shorty or full pack? and you are running standard springs?
12-23-2012, 08:50 AM
So I took my new buggy to the track today and for the most part was very happy with it. Took me a little bit to get used to as it's my first 2wd buggy but I started to get the hang of it. The only problem I was having was with the rear end; it had no traction. The buggy was sliding way too easily and it wasn't my driving because I had one of the employees drive it and he had the same issue. He tq's and wins the stock class almost every week so it's definitely not his driving either. The slipper seems ok, not too tight, not too loose and I turned the punch down but not much change. I'm also running m4 suburbs, the most common tire at my track. I had the same guy take a closer look at it and he said the rear end is sitting way too high; the rear arms actually a tad above level. He suggested using a larger anti-squat shim for 3.5 degrees to get the rear end down. Can I just stack the anti-squat shims? He also suggested adding some rear toe. Without buying new hubs, can I just use one of the different arm mounts to add some toe in?
I'm running the standard setup with the exception of -2 degrees camber front and rear (suggestion from another driver). The buggy seemed to push quite a bit in the turns as well, that is when it wasn't spinning out lol.
I really want to get this thing dialed which I know takes time but I want to at least start heading in the right direction so I'm really looking for some more input on setup. The track is smooth, wet, slippery, indoor clay.
I'm running the standard setup with the exception of -2 degrees camber front and rear (suggestion from another driver). The buggy seemed to push quite a bit in the turns as well, that is when it wasn't spinning out lol.
I really want to get this thing dialed which I know takes time but I want to at least start heading in the right direction so I'm really looking for some more input on setup. The track is smooth, wet, slippery, indoor clay.
Are you running a full size battery? What springs? Shock oils?
Traction is low-medium at best, so don't expect much. Are you running 17.5? Take the current limiter off. I find it makes the throttle act more like a light switch.
Run less camber in the rear, .5 to 1 degree max to get more tire on the track. Add a 1/4oz of weight to each rear triangle, and run the 3.5* toe block.
p.s. The tires need to be broken in. You can turn some laps (a bunch), or go drive it around in the lot. They're best when about 1/2 worn.
I might be up there Friday if you need a hand.
12-23-2012, 09:57 AM
12-23-2012, 10:18 AM
When you guys run tires in a parking lot to break them in, what is the exact technique? Straight line acceleration and stopping? large radius circles at low speed to get the fronts worn? Just curious because I know cement will chew threw them quick.
You might want to glue the foam on the steering wheel to the plastic steer wheel. Its annoying when the foam works its way to the plastic case.
You might want to glue the foam on the steering wheel to the plastic steer wheel. Its annoying when the foam works its way to the plastic case.
12-23-2012, 10:57 AM
Couple of big radius circles left then right, finish off with some fast straights.
It only takes a little bit for my track, just to scuff em in
It only takes a little bit for my track, just to scuff em in
12-23-2012, 11:36 AM
12-23-2012, 11:47 AM
Went to put a gear diff out of my SC10 into my B4.1, no go. The housing seems to be way to wide. When I look it up on Amain it shows it is compatible. What am I missing?
12-23-2012, 11:56 AM
you need this case:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...nsmission-Case
If it looks like this then it is the wrong one:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ion-Case-B4-T4
Compare the case in each car and see if they are the same.
12-23-2012, 12:04 PM
The transmission case is right. The diff is out of a SC10RS, I did finally get it in but the gears don't mesh properly