80LikesDurango DEX210 Thread
05-26-2014, 01:56 PM
The shock setups I have using the 1.5 or 1.6 pistons is based upon the shock o-ring. Standard orange one using the 3x1.5 and split rears 27/25 or purple o-rings using 3x1.6 35/30. The low friction o-rings offer less resistance, thus you need to increase oil weight to compensate, which in turn you need to alter pack also to compensate for the increase in oil wt. You can adjust the oil weight higher based on temperature as the oil wt reference I use is for 20 degrees C temps. You will need to go a step or 2 higher in the summer.
Whether you use the plastic or aluminum chassis there is a weight difference, but it is not that much. The biggest difference is the flex. A chassis with more flex is preferred on a low bite bumpy track. A stiffer chassis is better on a med to high bite track.
Whether you use the plastic or aluminum chassis there is a weight difference, but it is not that much. The biggest difference is the flex. A chassis with more flex is preferred on a low bite bumpy track. A stiffer chassis is better on a med to high bite track.
05-26-2014, 06:04 PM
Tech Regular
The v2 comes with parts to run either RM or MM. If you have the grip, then MM. If not RM maybe more consistent if the grip changes thru the day.
One option part you may want to consider is running a brass 1.5 rear front suspension holder from RDRP. It places more weight near the rear axles which will give you more grip if traction is Med or if the track starts to dry during your heat. You don't need it if you run RM.
Maybe pick up Dark Green Fronts, and Black Rears as a tuning option. - one rate harder than stock (Stock comes with black front, light blue rears)
And run the plastic HRC block, not the supplied aluminum LRC -2 block. The LRC is good for sugared outdoor tracks or indoor med/high grip clay tracks.
One option part you may want to consider is running a brass 1.5 rear front suspension holder from RDRP. It places more weight near the rear axles which will give you more grip if traction is Med or if the track starts to dry during your heat. You don't need it if you run RM.
Maybe pick up Dark Green Fronts, and Black Rears as a tuning option. - one rate harder than stock (Stock comes with black front, light blue rears)
And run the plastic HRC block, not the supplied aluminum LRC -2 block. The LRC is good for sugared outdoor tracks or indoor med/high grip clay tracks.
05-27-2014, 06:41 AM
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05-27-2014, 06:42 AM
05-27-2014, 07:27 AM
or is he refering to springs?
05-27-2014, 07:56 AM
What parts did you use to convert to front hexes? Durango hub & Kyosho axle as per the mod listed on www.petitrc.com?
If anyone else wants to do this, I found an easier way.
http://www.vpprousa.com/1042/intech-...kit-r-l-detail
It is marketed for the er-12, but will work on the 210.
05-27-2014, 08:20 AM
thinking of picking up the new V2 alloy chassis and side pods to convert my vehicle over, thinking extra weight may be helpful out here.
outside of the chassis and side pods, as I am already running the DimeC +8mm chasssis which uses the Type B parts, is there anything else I need to run this chassis?
Also, does this chassis work then with the exotek front bulkhead version 1 that doesn't work with the plastic chassis due to the molding?
outside of the chassis and side pods, as I am already running the DimeC +8mm chasssis which uses the Type B parts, is there anything else I need to run this chassis?
Also, does this chassis work then with the exotek front bulkhead version 1 that doesn't work with the plastic chassis due to the molding?
05-27-2014, 08:40 AM
thinking of picking up the new V2 alloy chassis and side pods to convert my vehicle over, thinking extra weight may be helpful out here.
outside of the chassis and side pods, as I am already running the DimeC +8mm chasssis which uses the Type B parts, is there anything else I need to run this chassis?
Also, does this chassis work then with the exotek front bulkhead version 1 that doesn't work with the plastic chassis due to the molding?
outside of the chassis and side pods, as I am already running the DimeC +8mm chasssis which uses the Type B parts, is there anything else I need to run this chassis?
Also, does this chassis work then with the exotek front bulkhead version 1 that doesn't work with the plastic chassis due to the molding?
But this usually will help with grip as well on low bite surfaces.
Use the 1.5/3 with HRC or 0/3 with the -2 RR sus block (LRC)
05-27-2014, 04:23 PM
Can I confirm the parts I have ordered are all going to work nicely for my V1 210 to V2 conversion.
I already have the newer shorter shock shaft's, shorter front shock bodies, shock retainer's, front and rear shock towers.
So i have the following on order.
TD320247 DIMEC20 CHASSIS DEX210 (+8MM) (TYPE B)
TD320227 MOTOR GUARD (TYPE B)
TD330578 FRONT BULKHEAD & SUSPENSION MOUNT SET (TYPE B)
TD330599 RR SUSPENSION HANGER -2MM LRC (3 DEGREE) (TYPE B)
TD310459 Team Durango Gear Box Set (Type B)
TD320269 Team Durango Bumper & Rear Top Deck Set (Type B)
TD320270 Team Durango Rear Chassis Brace Set (Type B)
So if im going to a LRC -2mm RR Hanger from a HRC RR Hanger and I was using a 1.5/3 RF Block (which gave me 1.5 anti squat) I should use the 0/3 RF Block because this will give me 2 deg anti squat with the -2 LRC??
Thanks
I already have the newer shorter shock shaft's, shorter front shock bodies, shock retainer's, front and rear shock towers.
So i have the following on order.
TD320247 DIMEC20 CHASSIS DEX210 (+8MM) (TYPE B)
TD320227 MOTOR GUARD (TYPE B)
TD330578 FRONT BULKHEAD & SUSPENSION MOUNT SET (TYPE B)
TD330599 RR SUSPENSION HANGER -2MM LRC (3 DEGREE) (TYPE B)
TD310459 Team Durango Gear Box Set (Type B)
TD320269 Team Durango Bumper & Rear Top Deck Set (Type B)
TD320270 Team Durango Rear Chassis Brace Set (Type B)
So if im going to a LRC -2mm RR Hanger from a HRC RR Hanger and I was using a 1.5/3 RF Block (which gave me 1.5 anti squat) I should use the 0/3 RF Block because this will give me 2 deg anti squat with the -2 LRC??
Thanks
Last edited by Pittster; 05-27-2014 at 10:02 PM.
05-27-2014, 04:28 PM
Hideeho
What parts did you use to convert to front hexes? Durango hub & Kyosho axle as per the mod listed on www.petitrc.com?
If anyone else wants to do this, I found an easier way.
http://www.vpprousa.com/1042/intech-...kit-r-l-detail
It is marketed for the er-12, but will work on the 210.
What parts did you use to convert to front hexes? Durango hub & Kyosho axle as per the mod listed on www.petitrc.com?
If anyone else wants to do this, I found an easier way.
http://www.vpprousa.com/1042/intech-...kit-r-l-detail
It is marketed for the er-12, but will work on the 210.
thinking of picking up the new V2 alloy chassis and side pods to convert my vehicle over, thinking extra weight may be helpful out here.
outside of the chassis and side pods, as I am already running the DimeC +8mm chasssis which uses the Type B parts, is there anything else I need to run this chassis?
Also, does this chassis work then with the exotek front bulkhead version 1 that doesn't work with the plastic chassis due to the molding?
outside of the chassis and side pods, as I am already running the DimeC +8mm chasssis which uses the Type B parts, is there anything else I need to run this chassis?
Also, does this chassis work then with the exotek front bulkhead version 1 that doesn't work with the plastic chassis due to the molding?
Just the v2 side pods are needed to run the v2 aluminium chassis.
05-28-2014, 06:48 AM
05-28-2014, 07:16 AM
Can I confirm the parts I have ordered are all going to work nicely for my V1 210 to V2 conversion.
I already have the newer shorter shock shaft's, shorter front shock bodies, shock retainer's, front and rear shock towers.
So i have the following on order.
TD320247 DIMEC20 CHASSIS DEX210 (+8MM) (TYPE B)
TD320227 MOTOR GUARD (TYPE B)
TD330578 FRONT BULKHEAD & SUSPENSION MOUNT SET (TYPE B)
TD330599 RR SUSPENSION HANGER -2MM LRC (3 DEGREE) (TYPE B)
TD310459 Team Durango Gear Box Set (Type B)
TD320269 Team Durango Bumper & Rear Top Deck Set (Type B)
TD320270 Team Durango Rear Chassis Brace Set (Type B)
So if im going to a LRC -2mm RR Hanger from a HRC RR Hanger and I was using a 1.5/3 RF Block (which gave me 1.5 anti squat) I should use the 0/3 RF Block because this will give me 2 deg anti squat with the -2 LRC??
Thanks
I already have the newer shorter shock shaft's, shorter front shock bodies, shock retainer's, front and rear shock towers.
So i have the following on order.
TD320247 DIMEC20 CHASSIS DEX210 (+8MM) (TYPE B)
TD320227 MOTOR GUARD (TYPE B)
TD330578 FRONT BULKHEAD & SUSPENSION MOUNT SET (TYPE B)
TD330599 RR SUSPENSION HANGER -2MM LRC (3 DEGREE) (TYPE B)
TD310459 Team Durango Gear Box Set (Type B)
TD320269 Team Durango Bumper & Rear Top Deck Set (Type B)
TD320270 Team Durango Rear Chassis Brace Set (Type B)
So if im going to a LRC -2mm RR Hanger from a HRC RR Hanger and I was using a 1.5/3 RF Block (which gave me 1.5 anti squat) I should use the 0/3 RF Block because this will give me 2 deg anti squat with the -2 LRC??
Thanks
I'm pretty sure the 0/3 RF used with the LRC RR does give 1.5 anti squat.
05-28-2014, 07:43 AM
Can I confirm the parts I have ordered are all going to work nicely for my V1 210 to V2 conversion.
So if im going to a LRC -2mm RR Hanger from a HRC RR Hanger and I was using a 1.5/3 RF Block (which gave me 1.5 anti squat) I should use the 0/3 RF Block because this will give me 2 deg anti squat with the -2 LRC??
Thanks
So if im going to a LRC -2mm RR Hanger from a HRC RR Hanger and I was using a 1.5/3 RF Block (which gave me 1.5 anti squat) I should use the 0/3 RF Block because this will give me 2 deg anti squat with the -2 LRC??
Thanks
Actually the stock v1 front shocks will work with the v2 front arms, but you need to remove the rubber spacer at the bottom of the shock end.
05-28-2014, 12:43 PM
That's a good option considering the new shock bodies are going to be available in September... I just need 1 more 
05-28-2014, 01:10 PM
am I correct in assuming that if you can match up the right sizes, you can get a lunsford turnbuckle setup that will work with the stock tunbuckle ends?
And if so, has anyone sized what is needed already as close as possible? Curious if there are some ready made kits out there that may match all or mostly all of the turnbuckle needs.
And if so, has anyone sized what is needed already as close as possible? Curious if there are some ready made kits out there that may match all or mostly all of the turnbuckle needs.