80LikesDurango DEX210 Thread
08-02-2012, 05:53 AM
#7051
That was Ethan5050's car. I just quoted him on it, but I agree about the bullets on the motor wires.
08-02-2012, 06:44 AM
#7052
Is anyone running AE wheels? I saw the front axle tresery offers but what about the rear? I have alot of tires for my AE cars and hate to buy that many more again.
08-02-2012, 07:04 AM
#7053
You can run JC hexes on the back and use ae hex wheels, or use ae pin drive wheels with the original 410 style rear pin drive- just need a shorter pin.
08-02-2012, 07:31 AM
#7054
OK question people and I will get to reading threw this thread but for now I just thought I would throw it out there, I just picked up a used DEX210 from a friend that raced it 3 times on carpet only. I am planning to race it on a tight hard packed track and would like to keep the mid motor configuration, as it is I am sure I will need to redo the shocks as it is stiff for the carpet setup but can you help me as to where I should go and what to do to make this work in the Mid mount config.
Thanks guy's
Sean
Oh I am planning to get the rear weight from Tresery to add the needed weight for traction.
Thanks guy's
Sean
Oh I am planning to get the rear weight from Tresery to add the needed weight for traction.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...RC20120715.pdf
It is probably not going to b perfect because I am running a +8mm chassis, but I did get it to work well with STD chassis too. U should go buy 4 cheap scales from harbor freight and weigh your car rtr and see what percent of weight is over the rear wheels. You need to get it as closes to 65% as u can, this is the key to making it work. If u r at 63% or less it will be really loose.
08-02-2012, 09:49 AM
#7055
This is a good place to start
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...RC20120715.pdf
It is probably not going to b perfect because I am running a +8mm chassis, but I did get it to work well with STD chassis too. U should go buy 4 cheap scales from harbor freight and weigh your car rtr and see what percent of weight is over the rear wheels. You need to get it as closes to 65% as u can, this is the key to making it work. If u r at 63% or less it will be really loose.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...RC20120715.pdf
It is probably not going to b perfect because I am running a +8mm chassis, but I did get it to work well with STD chassis too. U should go buy 4 cheap scales from harbor freight and weigh your car rtr and see what percent of weight is over the rear wheels. You need to get it as closes to 65% as u can, this is the key to making it work. If u r at 63% or less it will be really loose.
08-02-2012, 01:31 PM
#7056
Has anyone used the Kyosho BB shocks on the 210?
Not complaining with the 210 Big Bores.
Just curious.
I have the SCR-SP and those Big Bores are the best shocks i've used.
I've been contemplating on trying on a set on the 210.....
Not complaining with the 210 Big Bores.
Just curious.
I have the SCR-SP and those Big Bores are the best shocks i've used.
I've been contemplating on trying on a set on the 210.....
08-02-2012, 02:40 PM
#7059
IMO I think you would be better off by spending $12 to replace the ball studs with ones that work with the RPM ball cups unmodified.
08-02-2012, 04:44 PM
#7060
i tried what some one told me,johnny 5 and had no leaks or problems so far,use the orings from the small bore shocks from the 410 durango,they fit tight and let you tighten the cap down more so it does not leak or pull off the threads like it will do on big jumps...
08-02-2012, 10:51 PM
#7064
Is there a front hex conversion out there for this car?
08-02-2012, 10:52 PM
#7065