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Old 05-23-2014, 06:20 AM
  #14536  
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Originally Posted by ekt
Sounds like you may have old c-hubs, they were revised to stop the steering knuckle from travelling too far and locking up
Hideeho
Was it a running change so same part # I just need to order new ones?
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Old 05-23-2014, 12:13 PM
  #14537  
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Dino_D: I was comparing your setups for the dimec +8mm chassis equipped vehicle and the one that is based on the dex210v2 and its alloy chassis.

Based on the shock setups and what I have here, I believe I can pull off the setup you have shockwise for the dex210v2 setup (1.6mm x 3) on my vehicle though I have dimeC chassis. Do you think I could still see some benefit? I personally feel like I want a big more pack on the rear end of the car.
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Old 05-23-2014, 02:47 PM
  #14538  
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Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
ASC91406
TDRTD330382
And B4 rear hexes
Yes, B4 rear hexes. Look at your axle and note how it steps down from 5mm just a little bit to the wheel mounting area...it's a 3/16" axle! Use the B4 clamping rear hexes used in the B4.2...I tried to find a PN on Tower really quick, but couldn't. I suppose one could use PL or Jcon's, but I had the Jcon ones on my T4 and bent one (no BS, it was BENT)
Thanks. Those are the parts I put on order at the shop the other night. I will order the car in a few more weeks.
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Old 05-23-2014, 07:22 PM
  #14539  
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Originally Posted by wyd
Thanks. Those are the parts I put on order at the shop the other night. I will order the car in a few more weeks.
Hideeho
One drawback about using the Durango hub (TDRTD330382) is you can't change the trail on the hub. It is fixed in the "3" position. I measured the height & offset & the b5 hub (http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...ring-Block-Set) looks like it work with minimal modification. It is to tall & will need 1mm trimmed from each end (top & bottom) to fit or 2mm to be able to adjust hub height. The offset seems to be a little less than .5mm short each side (the same for the b4 rear hexes). Avid sells shims (http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html) to adjust track width to get it back to spec. With this setup you can still adjust the trail of the front axles.

One word of warning, I have not installed this on my car yet. I have only measured things out with the parts loose in my hand. There may be fitment issues I missed looking over things.
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Old 05-23-2014, 11:55 PM
  #14540  
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Originally Posted by Waflet
Hideeho
Was it a running change so same part # I just need to order new ones?
It was a running change, same part number.
*edit* Picture of the difference

Last edited by ekt; 05-24-2014 at 12:18 AM.
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Old 05-24-2014, 11:04 AM
  #14541  
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Originally Posted by ekt
It was a running change, same part number.
*edit* Picture of the difference
Hideeho
Yep, I have the old blocks. One more thing to add to the list of parts I need
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Old 05-24-2014, 02:12 PM
  #14542  
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Quick ? Guys does the diff nut go on right side or left looking from rear of car?
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Old 05-24-2014, 07:33 PM
  #14543  
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I'm pretty sure the passenger side
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Old 05-24-2014, 09:06 PM
  #14544  
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Originally Posted by jg24rw
Quick ? Guys does the diff nut go on right side or left looking from rear of car?
Technically it doesn't matter.
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Old 05-25-2014, 09:15 PM
  #14545  
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Originally Posted by wyd
Thanks. Those are the parts I put on order at the shop the other night. I will order the car in a few more weeks.
I love the 210 platform. You should enjoy the car...you were the guy that was running the snot out of that Losi SCT (whatever the hell it was called, before the XXX-SCT) right?
Originally Posted by Waflet
Hideeho
One drawback about using the Durango hub (TDRTD330382) is you can't change the trail on the hub. It is fixed in the "3" position. I measured the height & offset & the b5 hub (http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...ring-Block-Set) looks like it work with minimal modification. It is to tall & will need 1mm trimmed from each end (top & bottom) to fit or 2mm to be able to adjust hub height. The offset seems to be a little less than .5mm short each side (the same for the b4 rear hexes). Avid sells shims (http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html) to adjust track width to get it back to spec. With this setup you can still adjust the trail of the front axles.

One word of warning, I have not installed this on my car yet. I have only measured things out with the parts loose in my hand. There may be fitment issues I missed looking over things.

So...move one shim to the front of the caster block and adjust your ackerman...It's not rocket surgery If solving these problems quicky is not within your skill set, this is certainly not the car for you anyway.
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Old 05-25-2014, 09:22 PM
  #14546  
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Is the durango still a viable platform ? The reason why I'm asking this is the V2 doesn't see to be a big change form the first..
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Old 05-25-2014, 09:34 PM
  #14547  
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The first was/is a great car. They fixed my gripes about the V1 on the V2 (gullwing arms are too gullwingy, rear shock tower I've always thought was too tall).
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Old 05-25-2014, 09:38 PM
  #14548  
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The v2 is much nicer to work on. Otherwise it was dialed, now it is dialed. The v2 and v4 are both dialed and refined cars now. I love these cars
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Old 05-25-2014, 10:40 PM
  #14549  
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The one I have (just picked it up) is pretty modded..not sure if that's a good thing..but the mods that are on the car seem to be ok..I have the new front & rear a arms but I haven't put them on because the front shocks are not available yet..any suggestions on shock pistons..oil..rear motor. .med to high traction, indoors..
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Old 05-26-2014, 07:12 AM
  #14550  
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Originally Posted by Cain
Dino_D: I was comparing your setups for the dimec +8mm chassis equipped vehicle and the one that is based on the dex210v2 and its alloy chassis.

Based on the shock setups and what I have here, I believe I can pull off the setup you have shockwise for the dex210v2 setup (1.6mm x 3) on my vehicle though I have dimeC chassis. Do you think I could still see some benefit? I personally feel like I want a big more pack on the rear end of the car.
The shock setups I have using the 1.5 or 1.6 pistons is based upon the shock o-ring. Standard orange one using the 3x1.5 and split rears 27/25 or purple o-rings using 3x1.6 35/30. The low friction o-rings offer less resistance, thus you need to increase oil weight to compensate, which in turn you need to alter pack also to compensate for the increase in oil wt. You can adjust the oil weight higher based on temperature as the oil wt reference I use is for 20 degrees C temps. You will need to go a step or 2 higher in the summer.

Whether you use the plastic or aluminum chassis there is a weight difference, but it is not that much. The biggest difference is the flex. A chassis with more flex is preferred on a low bite bumpy track. A stiffer chassis is better on a med to high bite track.
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