WallyRC

Final pick of my sideways shorty modification. I used four 3x35 flat head crews at waterfall brace and where thumb screws are to really brace it. The JConcepts battery brace if for the B5M. I drilled a small hole at the waterfall brace. Used one of the small flathead screws from the sideguards. I slip the brace over the screw and slide the battery in.

As for cracking at droop screws on the front A arms. I have not seen this. That is crazy tolerances though.

I have notices a crack in the same spot when I was taking this pick at the shock attachment. Going to let him drive it that way and see if it breaks.

I have broken two front A arms in 1 year of practicing on indoor clay. My son drives the Dex and he drives it hard. Been very durable. More than the B4 he drove before.

I boil all my arms for 3-4 minutes though.

emerilnut

iTrader: (2)

I love your electrics layout, too, BTW.

WallyRC

Thanks. I'm hoping to get to the track this week. Will let you all know how she handles.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

+1 looks good.

mxzman

iTrader: (1)

Is good to know that the b5m brace will work. thank you

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

I think a few of my brand new arms had cracks like this too, it's all packed up right now since I'm moving but I remember seeing this. If I have a chance I'll try to check...

Interesting about the droop screw tolerances. What brand of screw were you using?

JRSlash

iTrader: (7)

I installed the screws that came with the Kit. In a long shot, I emailed RPM to see if they were planning on any a-arms for the Durango cars since they made the wing mount for the DEX8 and their reply was pretty much that they haven't done so well with Durango parts in the past (I believe he meant people interested and buying) but he was going to passed to the development department for review. I guess if more people show interest in Durango components chime in and show interest they might produce quality a-arms for the Durango 1/10 cars. I hate that after one run I got broken parts and the potential fix is not to install the droop screws.

Kremzeek

iTrader: (8)

I was using one of the extras that came with the kit since I lost the original when the arm broke

WallyRC

All right everyone. Went to the track today with the sideways shorty mod. Here is what I noticed: Rear end was more planted than before. I stiffened up my rear springs from TD light blue to Kyosho Rear Pink. Went with Yokomo front pink (3.14). I was getting some on power push and increased understeer. Jumping was level. Overall, just have to get a little more steering. I did go to 30 degree castor, it was at 25. Should I go back to 25??? Indoor clay. medium to hight bite, Bigger jumps, semi smooth, A lot of the racers getting ready for Wednesday night racing had slicks... I was using Proline electrons.

Fred and the rest of you guys, any help. I am using the HRC rear block in rear. 2mm under inner ball stud. Front has 2 mm under inner ball stud as well.

Should I decrease the droop in front to try and decrease rear weight transfer on power? Should i raise the rear RC a little and lower the front RC?
Ride height 24mm.

I was going to try a few things but I clipped a pipe and snapped the front C hub off. I didn't have time to wrench and get back on track.

Thanks for advice...

Laker67

iTrader: (69)

If your looking for a touch more steering you could go back to the 25* castor setting and maybe drop the rear down a mm or so. If you don't want to do that you could always more the front shock to the inside hole on the arm. Its always a sure fire way to get more steering but it can make the car a little unpredictable.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

yeah go with the 25* setting.

WallyRC

Thanks guys. I like the way it felt with 25 degree. Will go back.

Devin

I found 20. Degree caster to be money in most situations. Never liked the high caster, even in track layouts where it sounded great on paper.

Dino's typical advice of adjusting droop screws for turning should be brought up.

Battery placement might be an option, if the mod allows for jamming it further forward considering you said the rear was more planted now.

Turtle Speed

iTrader: (11)

Im sure this has been mentioned but I just picked one of these up at a good price used and have a couple questions.

1. Is the MM on this designed to be run with 4 gears! Or can you also set it up with 3 gears? I would think so but after reviewing the manual not sure.

2. Is the a 12mm hex conversion for the front wheels?

Thanks excited to try this out. Like the design and looks like making changes are really simple and not a complete PITA compared to some other buggies!

JRSlash

iTrader: (7)

1. It is designed to run MM3 gears and MM4 gears, also rear motor.

2. It does comes with 12mm hexes for the front and rear. Note that when you build it, the steering knuckes are different, the one for the bearing and the one for hexes. If I was you, I would get the exotek 12mm titanium axles for the front and the 12mm aluminums for the rear. The plastic ones in the kit are no good IMO.

Check out exotek. they have some nice upgrades. Also STRC has the carbon shock towers for $10 a piece. Cant beat that.