czrlaker

iTrader: (34)

With all this diff talk anyone try other vehicles diffs? I know the TLR 22 gear diff is a no go, too narrow (TD case one side is flat and other side is rounded). I have AE 5 series vehicles but I haven't had a chance to test fit a ball diff. I doubt the AE 5 series GEAR diff will fit since the out drive sides are both rounded.

Vujkovicv

iTrader: (1)

I've been trying to order some rear a arms for a couple of days now. Got 2 refunds so far. Just tried amazon. Hopefully I'll end up getting those. There was 2 on ebay for over $15. I ended up getting one just in case amazon doesn't work out.

WallyRC

Parts seem to be getting sparse. I hope someone buys Durango and keeps it going. Or soon they may be a thing of the past. I love these cars!!

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

Buy the V1 arms. They are plentiful. Run the rear shocks on the front of the arms. I don't like them on the back. The shock angle to the tower is wrong and requires lots of spacing to be correct.

WallyRC

Good timing Fred. LOL
I just got new wings for my 210f and my sons 210. Moved the shocks to the front because I like not having to trim the wing. Didn't think it would make much performance difference with shocks in front. Will see next time out.

Alan_r

Honestly this is definitely one of the best things about this car, choices. For my situation, the guys here told me to put the shocks in the back... So I did and it was night and day. I noticed the angle but they were not binding so I just went with it. I may try to shim them out a bit to correct the angle but I think that's more of a fine tune than a gamechanger. Definitely give it a try and run some laps, this thing is infinitely adjustable.

OK, today I'm attacking a damn Durango ball diff again. (It's for the DESC210 but they are the same) This is now the fifth one and I'm determined not to screw it up. Everything was washed in brake cleaner and decreased. The only thing that caught my attention so far was the inner washer, the one with the larger hole, was very difficult to get in. A 5.5 hex socket and some light tapping seems to have seated it flush though. The groove for the c-clip was even all the way around. My C-clips are the newer style that are flat on both sides and using my new C-clip pliers, it snapped in to place perfectly. That's where I'm at right now. Time to take a break for a few to keep my eyes fresh.

This diff is going together exactly like the others.... So far I have no idea what I've done wrong on the past.

czrlaker

iTrader: (34)

When you say night and day, what exactly do you notice? I have them in the rear (I believe that's stock) ive been thinking about doing it. I know what its supposed to do. Just wondering about real life experience,more than theory.

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

I've never understood the logic of moving the weight and mass of the motor inboard of the wheelbase only to then move the weight and higher mass of the rear shocks back outside of the wheelbase. Durango designed a gearbox that didn't have a slipper shaft sticking out far so this allowed them to keep the shocks in front. No one else did that and as such they were forced to move the shocks behind the arms. It wasn't a performance benefit. It was a necessity based on their gearbox designs. Only when the laydown gearbox fad appeared and moved that slipper shaft forward, out of the way, did it allow mounting of the shocks in front of the rear arms for everyone else. Don't copy other cars just because they are setup that way. They may have had no choice.

Alan_r

If you read back a few pages, you'll see the issues I was having and the advice given to help me out. I've never gotten set up advice on line before, I'm usually more of a trial and error type, but I wanted to give it try and also meet others running these cars. I gave pretty detailed accounts to what I did here.

Fred: I wasn't interjecting on the advice given, I was complimenting the design of the car. In my situation, MM3 with the shocks to the rear worked out. I compared the weight bias on my scales and running this way is in between RM and full on MM.

czrlaker

iTrader: (34)

Just wanted to correct myself. My shocks are in the front of the tower.

Alan_r

More in the following post.

Alan_r

OK, this is the bad diff out of my 210R, it has nine, ten minute runs on it. It was crunchy and unable to be set, either too loose and slipping or too tight and locked up. As you can see, it was not dry. The only things I noticed were that two of the thrust bearing balls are no longer secure in their retainer and the obvious grooves in the plates. I've never had a diff fail like this. I've got diffs with thirty runs that still look almost new, and are certainly usable. This particular diff was the second Team Durango diff I ever built. So what's the doctors prognosis? I'm trying to see where I failed when assembling these diffs.

My new diff is together and by all bench tests, smooth as butter. We will see when the track drys out later this week if I was successful or not.

Not sure if everyone's aware but if you click on the picture once, then click on it again, it opens in a new tab and you can really zoom in close to see the detail.

bmag5000

I trash ball diffs all the time like that because I built them wrong.
The diff balls came loose from those holes when I broke one and you just shred the sucker. :/
I have not had this happen when I switched all my cars over to Gear Diffs.

WallyRC

Ok Alan.
I have a few that have looked like they before. The thing that looks a little peculiar to me is all the lube/grease on your diff. Looks like black grease on diff plates?? These diffs are known to slip when to loose and they don't like lots of grease. Make sure to use silicon on the balls and just LIGHTLY coat them. And very little on diff plates. The AE ones u can cover them with tons of lube. No issues.
Black grease all over the thrust is OK.
Need to break them in slowly.
I like your idea of tuning backwards.
Once on the track, take a few laps at 50% throttle and recheck, and work up. It can never bark. Once it does. Gritty. The AE ones could bark a little and be Ok. These can't.
Good luck!!
I am testing a gear diff with two metal gears with 5000 diff oil. Gonna play around with gear diff to see if I can get it similar to ball diff.

micholix

Hi Alan, on the first pic, it looks like ways to much diff lube on the outdrive, the pic does not show it very good on my ipad, so may i could be wrong!?
I realy just do a dip of lube on each ball and just put a little bit on my fingers and rub it on the diff rings.
What is the black coating on the diff rings at the third and fifth picture, is this black grease?
First i thought, the diff balls look to small on the fourth pic, but they may just where falling down a bit in the slot of the diff gear... :P