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Old 02-08-2017, 12:49 PM
  #18991  
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Originally Posted by WallyRC
Ok Alan.
I have a few that have looked like they before. The thing that looks a little peculiar to me is all the lube/grease on your diff. Looks like black grease on diff plates?? These diffs are known to slip when to loose and they don't like lots of grease. Make sure to use silicon on the balls and just LIGHTLY coat them. And very little on diff plates. The AE ones u can cover them with tons of lube. No issues.
Black grease all over the thrust is OK.
Need to break them in slowly.
I like your idea of tuning backwards.
Once on the track, take a few laps at 50% throttle and recheck, and work up. It can never bark. Once it does. Gritty. The AE ones could bark a little and be Ok. These can't.
Good luck!!
I am testing a gear diff with two metal gears with 5000 diff oil. Gonna play around with gear diff to see if I can get it similar to ball diff.
Black AE grease was used on the thrust bearing, clear silicone AE diff lube on the plates and balls. That black coloring is the result of something letting go in the diff. There was no seepage of black grease past the inner thrust bearing washer.

This diff was built before I started using Team Durango and Hudy lubes. It was when I first started with Durango and only had my AE stuff to use. For what it's worth, all builds beyond this one used TD lubes, and if that was not available, Hudy. I figured Europeans like European lubes... Lol.
This diff was also built using the AE method of tightening until snug, then back off 1/8.

I have since found that they can go way beyond snug before tight. That's why they just sat there slipping at first. This diff definitely barked a few times. Quite loudly at that.

My personal opinion is that the diff was initially to loose, the heat liquefied the diff lube. Then when it was tightened down to function, the remainder of the lube was broken down to much already and burnt. Basically, the diff cooked itself.

As far as the amount of lube, it was definitely more than a slight coating, but not even close to being sloppy.
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Old 02-08-2017, 01:38 PM
  #18992  
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"I figured Europeans like European lubes... Lol"

LMAO!!!!

Alan, you are entertaining...
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Old 02-09-2017, 07:01 PM
  #18993  
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Originally Posted by WallyRC
These diffs are known to slip when to loose and they don't like lots of grease. Make sure to use silicon on the balls and just LIGHTLY coat them. And very little on diff plates.
I learned this the hard way as well. Very little on the balls and diff plates. Otherwise they slip like crazy and you end up over tightening.

Between this and the C-clips, I really hate Durango's ball diffs. It's easy to see why so many people just say f-it and run gear diffs.
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Old 02-09-2017, 11:48 PM
  #18994  
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Originally Posted by WallyRC
"I figured Europeans like European lubes... Lol"

LMAO!!!!

Alan, you are entertaining...


I didn't get a chance to run the desc210 with the newly built diff today. Instead I spent all day finally building my restored desc410v2. Ready for paint and soldering... Finally.

Now on to a Gen 1 DEX210 that I'm doing up as a RM car. It's in pretty good shape so all I have to really do is rebuild the shocks, gearbox, and all other wear parts, then load a setup on it. For some strange reason I have a feeling that this car will be awesome out of the box. These cars were designed when RM was the way to go, not that long ago really... and I think it will show. All most all of the reviews and articles that exclaim how awesome these vehicles are,are running them in RM configuration.

I'm sure that eventually I'll start making some progress with these cars. With enough effort and money thrown at them something has to happen.
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Old 02-10-2017, 01:00 PM
  #18995  
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Hey all. I know that the Intech buggy is "inspired" by the dex210. Does anyone know what Intech parts are compatible with the dex210.
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Old 02-10-2017, 02:13 PM
  #18996  
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Originally Posted by henry
Hey all. I know that the Intech buggy is "inspired" by the dex210. Does anyone know what Intech parts are compatible with the dex210.
I remember seeing a chart with what parts fit and all I can remember is every part except like 2 but can't remember what they are.
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Old 02-10-2017, 02:21 PM
  #18997  
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Originally Posted by wyd
I remember seeing a chart with what parts fit and all I can remember is every part except like 2 but can't remember what they are.
Would you happen to have a link?
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Old 02-11-2017, 02:11 PM
  #18998  
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Originally Posted by henry
Hey all. I know that the Intech buggy is "inspired" by the dex210. Does anyone know what Intech parts are compatible with the dex210.
Is there a certain part your looking for? I have ordered some of their parts.
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Old 02-11-2017, 06:01 PM
  #18999  
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Originally Posted by henry
Would you happen to have a link?
CHeck the Intech ER-12 Forum. Post 515.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...l#post14147323
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Old 02-11-2017, 08:13 PM
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Parts are most likely interchangeable with many cars out there. Aside from Schumacher, there isn't much originality.
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Old 02-12-2017, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by wyd
CHeck the Intech ER-12 Forum. Post 515.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...l#post14147323
This links everything to tresrey-USA which no longer works. I think they're gone now...
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Old 02-13-2017, 04:39 PM
  #19002  
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Is there any of you with the dex that have friends with a serpent mh??

Would like to know if the laydown is close to spec and could be modified to fit in our dex's. I have the exotek rear mm mount, wondering if their rear tab could be modified to work. Think we could just drill holes where the waterfall meets.

Anyone?? Anyone?? Bueller??
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Old 02-13-2017, 06:15 PM
  #19003  
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This guy runs for serpent at my local track. I can compare this Thursday wallrc
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Old 02-13-2017, 10:39 PM
  #19004  
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Originally Posted by Vujkovicv
This guy runs for serpent at my local track. I can compare this Thursday wallrc
Thanks so much!!
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Old 02-15-2017, 08:45 PM
  #19005  
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A while back I remember reading about front arms but I can't seem to find where it was. Can I run the Gullwing a arms on the V3? If not, do we know if any other brand arms will work?
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