Euro Stealth

iTrader: (5)

Also we mainly run outdoors here, and with the un-predictable weather that florida has, we are hard pressed enough to have a nice enough blue groove to run Bar Codes in the rear, let alone all 4.

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

Is there a chart somewhere that explains the relative softness/attributes of the various "soft" compounds available? I'm trying to pick a good starting compound for front/rear bar codes on my 1/10 4wd buggy. The track I run at is indoor with hard packed cool surface that really responds well to run-in m3 holeshots and suburbs. I saw a little bit of a groove developing at the end of the race night, so that is what the surface will be in general as it gets treated with water from time to time and is generally maintained as a "moist pack" that starts to grove a little through the night.

As an example, last night I put on some new holeshots on the rear (because the ones I had run earlier were getting very close to the carcas) and I was sliding all over the place at the start of the main. Near the end, it was hooked. I sat the car down to marshal the next main, then put it back out after that race was over (it was the last main). The car was instantly hooked, so it wasn't the tires changing temperature, it was the tread breaking in.

So... from what I see, there are 3 soft compounds available in this tire.

• Blue: Soft, all conditions.
• Gold: Soft, indoor.
• Orange: Soft, groove conditions.

So, does it go soft to softer blue -> gold -> orange, or perhaps blue -> orange -> gold?

It sounds like I want golds, but I really can't find any explanations.

Sage

iTrader: (53)

http://www.jconcepts.net/files/JConcepts_Tire_Guide.pdf

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

Really doesn't tell me anything that I didn't know. All it really says is use barcode orange (groove soft) for groove conditions... so no surprise there.

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

The Golds are not in the same family of rubber as green, blue, orange, yellow, and white. Gold is a special rubber designed to work with wet clay. If you are running on dirt, the green, blue, orange, yellow and white compounds will work depending of the track conditions. If you are indoor on clay, you will probably want to start with golds, and go from there.

Pimpin

iTrader: (32)

Fresh Paint!

vr6cj

iTrader: (124)

And I'll follow that up with mine.

JC T4 High Flow on my RT5 for those of you that cant wait for JC to do it.

Armaan

iTrader: (49)

AWESOME!

rgrg2

iTrader: (48)

I have two pairs of Gold Barcodes that I am going to use for the front and rear on my xxxt-cr. I was wondering exactly how and where are the foams supposed to be cut to get the best traction out of the tire. They will be run on damp clay. Is there a certain way the tires have to be mounted on the rim?

Also, are the foams that come with the tire the best foams for the tire, or do I need to get firmer or softer or 2 stage foams to make the tire get better traction?

Thank for any info.

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

I think the revised tire guide disagrees with you on the bar codes. They say that gold is what you want on most hard surfaces and green is what you want on clay with them. In fact, they recommend only green for clay on the other tires as well.

http://www.jconcepts.net/index.php?/...tail_details/1

Looks like I will be getting golds as a starting point.

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

I have used the tires extensively, I have a good idea of how they work. If you would like to post the conditions of your track, along with the tires setup people are using with different tire manufacturers, I can advise you as to which JConcepts tires I would use to ge the best results.

J_P

Razathorn: Where are you located? Most indoor tracks, the Gold will be the choice. But it could be Blue as well. Location might help for a general guess.

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

I already ordered the golds earlier in the day, but in any case:

We are in kansas at an indoor dirt track. The dirt is hard packed moist (with a packer machine and from a race line developing. The surface looks like dirt colored wet clay -- it isn't clay, but it is a very fine dirt that you could mold somewhat like clay with your hands (i.e. it makes great dirt balls for throwing). Through the night, the track will take rubber, but only a light grove will develop in certain places like jump aces and busy fast corners -- that groove might appear blue if the dirt wasn't so dark, but it almost looks black (but I wouldn't call it black grove because it isn't from tons of rubber on the track).

My m3 holeshots work good normally. The other night it was especially slick as some track treatment was coming out, but worn in holeshots were hooked well. Soft suburbs work great too. I have run soft goose bumps there as well and they worked pretty good, better if the track was messy, but the hole shots were better and more sure footed all around. Some folks were playing around with the idea of running slicks, but that didn't work well for them at all .

Here's a video if that helps:

+ YouTube Video

dgdcustoms

iTrader: (85)

Hey I was wondering if there are any plans for a body for the kyosho lazer zx-5 FS car??? Bring on the rulux wheels for Kyosho too please

AndyMoore

iTrader: (64)

I would highly recommend listening to Frank, not only is he a National A-Main caliber driver, he is also very knowledgeable on car/tire setup. That in addition to him being right about Gold compound.