twelvegauge

iTrader: (7)

New house, new car what's a $200 ESC. No payments at least .
I just bought ATV tires so it's old equiptment for my Touring car. Need a motor for my VTA it's in my B44 buggy.

alphaqgti

Kufman, if you're gonna buy a new esc anyway and you can swing it, I'd suggest spending a little more money on a programmable/updateable esc like the RS that has a "stock/blinky" profile. That way you can run in a stock-type class now and then you can change over to a different class if you choose to do so without having to shell out more money for a new esc again later. Having options is always a good thing!

You can spend a little more now or spend a lot more later. Just my 2¢.

beemerfan

iTrader: (39)

You put a 25.5 in your 4wd buggy? Seems like you'd want a little more power for that class.

beemerfan

iTrader: (39)

There are no more boosted stock classes in ROAR, and they will likely die out locally as well. So unless he's planning on running mod, there really isn't a need for a boosted speed control or a laptop at the track anymore.

alphaqgti

Saddest thing I've read here in a while. I miss boosted 17.5.

As sad and true as your statement is now and perhaps in the near future, there's no saying boost won't come back later.

Well, if he should ever decide to run in a modified class, that option is still there.

A-Ko

iTrader: (2)

Congrats on the house, we will have to catch up on it later.

I have 1 RS, glad I have it, with economics of my new house to fix up it makes more sense to have 1 $50 ESC than 1 $160. For $160 I would rather have a motor, ESC and tires or body.

Do I love the laptop controllers, sure I have a Tekin and Hobbywing. Boost is disappearing, although some places still allow it and I do run it. Although I would rather support non-boosted classes, to keep it alive.

twelvegauge

iTrader: (7)

I changed the stator to a 13.5 for streamwood n htlith. I guess i could swap it out when i want to run vta.

kufman

iTrader: (6)

If the class changes back at some point, I have 2 other controllers that can handle it, they just happen to be in other cars that I want to leave them in. I was just trying to figure out how cheaply I could run a class this summer. The only real thing I need is a motor and a couple of pinions. I have a spec sensored controller, but it doesn't have lipo cutoff. I ran it for a couple years that way. I just had to be careful when it came to play time after the races that I didn't run the battery too far down.

Truth be told, boost racing should die and never come back. They also need to make some sort of locked timing motor to go with it. As it stand right now, you can crank the timing on the motor and still burn stuff up pretty easily. This was evident at the last big Leisure hours race where all the fast guys in 17.5 were replacing rotors every couple of runs. I would like to see a 10 degree locked, 13.5 motor to go along with blinky timing (which is a engineering oxymoron, but for the sake of this argument we will believe it actually can happen).

I am not against variable timing in the way that Castle and Tekin use it to increase efficiency and also by not using the sensors after start up. These two ideas make sense since the actually motor timing can not be accurately measured by the sensors as RPM and motor loading increase.

A-Ko

iTrader: (2)

I do have lipo cutoff controllers and never use that function. Actually a few weeks ago I ran one thinking it was charged and it was not. If you stop running it when they drop off quick, they should be fine. I probably run less Mamps than you do and have no problems if they are charged.

Boosted controllers are fun and have not fried an rotor yet. Bigger races with open ESC rules and budgets usually I don't enjoy unless they are speced, like the Tamiya series or just plain local racing. Although outside local tracks usually a well setup blinky can beat a boosted car. Personally I think the 17.5 with locked timing is the way to go. As far as the timing probably would guess the 20s. Going back to 13.5 might be difficult being that motor is not engraved as stock like 17.5 is. Plus you deal with comparisons and people not wanting to switch. I think Trinity has come out with one but has not really taken off. Having adjustable BL is not really terrible although if you go past the timing tape you enter amp draw of 2amps and up which is a good way to fry things.

If you are looking for a good class to try, VTA seems to be set in stone. The tires last fairly long are one set and cheap, motor is 1 spec, escs are limited and bodies are old school which is different. Many of the tracks in the area do run VTA if they run in stock, they can be fairly competitive.

kufman

iTrader: (6)

I thought about VTA, but I have tons of sedan tires laying around so stock sedan really is the cheapest way for me to go.

A-ko, we will have to have you and the family over after we move into our new house. There is a pond that we can run boats in and a big back yard to run cars in. We can have a gluten free cookout!!

A-Ko

iTrader: (2)

WOOOOOOOOO

I make some nice Guacamole.

When are you moving in or are you doing what we did, rehab for 1 - 1-1/2 months then move in?

kufman

iTrader: (6)

We close on Monday and we plan to move in the that weekend. The house is in great shape so there isn't much that has to be done.

Liz loves Guacamole!

mark.davis

iTrader: (16)

so, what classes do the regulars plan on running?
Traxxas Rally?
stock SCT?
4x4 or mod SCT?
VTA or touring car?
Tamiya mini?

I want to run two classes this year and, if there is only one heat of touring car and no tamiya mini, I want to have a vehcile ready for a 2nd class.

MD

iTrader: (136)

I will probably run Traxxas Rally and Off Road. I may run VTA occasionally.

A.Werstein

iTrader: (12)

what are the rules for your traxxas rally class?