thunderbt3

iTrader: (14)

Kenji, thanks for the offer but lately, I can't find any time to race let alone test out HT's system. I've been trying to get out there to visit but time isnt on my side.

I wanted to format the laptop before the 2008 season but the laptop is Ken and Sharon's personal laptop. Theres other documents and programs on there other than the race software. I backup/format my personal laptop/PC a few times a year just to flush everything out and make sure everything is running smooth.

I think one of the main issues with the transponders last year is that JLap is setup for 2 sets (red and green) of transponders. The new transponders were read in but the old numbers were still in the second set. JLap flip-floped between sets for every heat. So race 1 would be on red set, race 2 would be on green set. Originally both red and green sets had the identical transponder numbers. When the new set of transponders were read in, only 1 set changed and JLap thought "oh, we have 2 sets of transponders now". I believe thats where most of the transponder confusion stemmed from. I'll have to check the next time I have access to the laptop to make sure all the old transponder numbers are flushed out.

Barry, HT uses JLap software with AMB decoder hardware. The only problem I see with the loop is that it was cut in the past so it could be fished through a timing bridge. The connectors used to reconnect the loop has seen better days. I'll ask if I can install more solid connectors on the wire if its possible. I've also heard of people using speaker wire as a cheaper alternative to ordering a new cable from AMB. Just as long as the wire is the correct resisitance with an inline resistor (100 ohms total I believe) it should be compatible with the decoder.

Thanks for all the suggestions and support. Also thanks for bringing up other things I can discuss with Ken about.

-Dave

chicagokenji

You're welcome. If the owners want a place to test they have one.

For Strictly's program I bought an old laptop and a tower machine from Craigslist about 200 bucks total for both of them. They are dedicated to just racing. There's two of them in case one goes down it doesn't kill the race day. Old machines that can run racing hardware and software are really really cheap on Craigs.

chicagokenji

If it were me I'd research this well before I jumped and did it. There's some conflicting info out there about whether or not speaker wire or anything other than AMB product will work correctly. Just thought I'd mention it because I'm aware of issues.......

bvoltz

iTrader: (44)

I can tell you for sure, you can use phone wire with no problem. We would take 2pair wire and separate it so we had two wire loop (one does and would work, we did this the first time), tape it to the ground, and then connect one end to red and the other black. The reason we used two is if one the wires got cut, the other was a backup, but one day some had a screw dragging and cut both wires on side, the loop work up to that point of the cut going from the red side to the cut. I used RC Score software and have it, I was thinking I would bring the computer out and you give it a try but I was hoping that it was the same software so we could just a backup and restore if your computer was acting up and you want to try different computer.

If you cut the loop you will see it is around 18 to 20 gauge wire, not solid... that is it... Nothing special. the special is the signal cable going from the decoder to the loop which is the expensive side. When we got our decoder, they sent the coaxial cable and the loop was not connected, just a spool of wire. We solder on connectors after we cut the loop to length, and attached the loop to a PVC bridge. But when one of the racers cut down the bridge, we look for a way to stop this... and transporting a 18' 2" PVC bridge was a pain in the butt. So I found a number of tracks taping the loop onto the track and what they used, and we went that direction. It was great for us... But you question is about the loop, which is nothing special wire... Can get it at local hardware store.

So for the people that do not understand why we taped it the ground, because someone would take out the loop, and I got tired of this, so we taped it down. Problem solved... The only pain is putting down, when finished we just cut the loop off at the connection to the really important cable and toss it away tape and all.

Hope that helps…

MD

iTrader: (136)

I've used speaker and it does work. There is a seller on Ebay that sells the loops. He's in Australia and I think the total cost with shipping is $30.00. A loop from AMB is a little more. I think you should eliminate as many connectors as you can. We use two Deans connectors to connect the loop to the heavier cable coming from the decoder. I think it's best to get rid of the old loop. Make sure that none of the speaker wires from amplifier cross the loop.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Go back to use paper and pencil.....and whoever pay Dave the most got the TQ and win....no need the stinking computer crap...

A-Ko

iTrader: (2)

Maybe that is what they need a cheap laptop. You don't need anything fancy, just scope out the minimum requirements and get a little more. I have seen new ones for $500 I am sure you can get a used one for $200 or less. Maybe even a racer has and old one that they no longer use and could donate it.

That way you can just have the race software and know it will not get corrupted by multiple users or even the internet. If it goes bad, when in doubt, re-format.

thunderbt3

iTrader: (14)

Yup, HT had issues with the house transponder signals being too weak because of the batteries inside them being so old. We started noticing that any touring car without a personal transponder going under the bridge would not be read since the signal was so weak. We started taping the loop down to the asphalt and that helped a little while before the the transponders were really dead. I don't think the bridge will ever come back. With just the loop, Cory has a little more freedom in track design since there is no set width if you wanted to use the bridge.

Another thing that contributed to funky lap readings is that I had to manually enter laps into computer as cars passed by when the transponders were dying. Car 1 would be key #1, car 2= key #2 and so on. I believe there was one day I had to manually enter cars for the whole day.....not fun and really frustrating. Sometimes I would accidently hit a # for the wrong car or maybe I entered the # for the car but the transponder all of a sudden read and put on another lap. I know a minimum track time would eliminate this along with false readings at the other end of the loop.

Jeff, it would be awesome if someone donated a laptop just for race use. I don't really see HT buying one since they spent a ton of money making improvements/fixes to the driverstand and also they had to buy a whole new set of transponders. I think Dell is having a President's Day sale this weekend....

That drivers stand has seen better days, I remember when it was Walt's stand while racing in Tinley Park. I think that was back in 2004-05. The elements had taken its toll when it was down in the Naperville store uncovered.

MD

iTrader: (136)

When you have to fall back on hitting the number keys you need two people. One calls and the other types. I also think part of the problem can be software. When it was a big deal to change transponder numbers if one fails, there is something wrong. Dave, it might be a good to contact Craig to replace some batteries in the transponder. Also, could Hobbytown sell personals at a reduced cost to encourage people to buy them.

bvoltz

iTrader: (44)

Crossing the coax cable is not a problem... The loop could be...

Why waste money to get it shipped from Australia, you can go buy telephone wire, strip it and you have a loop, that cars can go over that will not upset them. We have had to reconnect the loop, and it did not mess with it. You can also turn up the signal out the decoder which will help...If I remember JLap, you can turn it up with JLap software.

bvoltz

iTrader: (44)

Yes that would help a lot... you do not need much of a computer, windows 98 will cut it no problem Windows 2000 is ok, Vista stay away from it. I have windows 98 if needed.... but only a clean install will help a lot.

bvoltz

iTrader: (44)

Yes, PT are the way to go.... How many handouts are used per weekend?

MD

iTrader: (136)

bvoltz-You're right. i was referring to the speaker wire crossing the timing loop. I don't think you can adjust the signal on the AMBrc decoder.I know you could on the AMB20 system. The regular AMB loops have a resistor, transistor, or something that helps pick up the signal. When we used old AMB20 system you could go to Radio Shack and buy the resistor or whatever to put in the middle of the loop to help pick up the signal. They should also check or replace the cable that goes from the decoder to the computer. With some of AMB systems there can be problems with the cord that plugs into the charging dock for the transponders. it has a small box to convert the current. If the parts in that box malfunction that can cause the current to cut out.

bvoltz

iTrader: (44)

I understand.... I remember running JLaps a long time ago and they had a way to change the signal strenght, but they could have removed it with updates... If you have not figured out, I now use a different software, but I'm not trying to have a debat over software... I also made a call, we do not use hand out transponders, so everyone must have a PT.... but I'm also not recommending this either, most had PT, so it as was a simple rule to make... Look I'm willing to help out any way I can... I remember to learn the software we setup the computer and loop in the grage and ran cars over it... until we got the bug worked out. I have a note book computer, with another software package, so this will not help you guys out. If we had the same software, we could do a quick back up and restore on the other computer. I would be willing to loan the notebook for testing, but I want it back. we can format it, install and test a race, but I want to keep it... Let me now if this helps or what ideas people have. I'm currently not working, so I can meet up at HT and we can play.... if people wanted to try some stuff...

I'm open and offering, but not pushing.... My door is open...

mark.davis

iTrader: (16)

Let's get these classes nailed down so I can spend some money supporting my LHS (Hobbytown St. Charles is great for ordering parts - if they don't have it in stock, they usually get everything in about 3 days).

Perhaps the local regular racers should take a vote soon.

Here is my 3 cents worth on electric classes. I think we should keep everything close to what it was last year to save some money >>>>

"Stock" - let's call this class what it is, Super Stock.
Motors - 13.5 or 19T. Don't understand why it was 20T in the past. I always ran 27T since I thought it was stock. Lot's of people have 19T motors from racing elsewhere and it would save some the $250 expense of going brushless.
Tires - any? or just rubber. I don't care. I only ran foams because I'm an old 1/12th scaler and never learned about rubber.
Battery - 6 cell NiMH or 2 cell LiPO


COT/Vintage:
Motor - 17.5 or 27T, this would be like a stock class. I know Hobbytown racers have money in silver can motors but I don't think a lot of visitors do. Save the silver can motors for the FWD/Mini class.
Battery - 6 cell NiMH or 2 cell LiPO
Tires - HPI vintage radials (not sure about allowing slicks - I would do so only if official santioning body permits these tires)
Body - any non-touring car

Mini Cooper type class - any FWD mini car including micro RS4's with the rear drive disabled.
Battery - NiMh
Motor - Silver Can
Tires - any mini

Slash
Stock with NiMh batteries. Perhaps LiPo with weights (I don't like spending new money on old technology NiMH's) Changing plugs, pinion and RX/TX only. Maybe some mods but not the expensive ones like the ball diff and shocks.

Off Road (I would like this class as even with Slash as possible so they can be run together. I don't think we will get enough people to support two classes all the time).
Motor - 13.5 and 19T or 17.5 and 27T. Whichever would be closest in speed to Slash 14T stock motor.
Batterry - NiMH or Lipo with weights.
Tires - Rubber off road types (can be bald). My T4 foams got chunked at the end of last year and I don't think I'll find another good eBay deal like those again

Rookie/Novice class would help bring new comers into the sport (and also help out the LHS that does so much work so we can have fun). I would say any 1/10th scale electric and if you win two times you must bump up to another class.

Gas - I don't know. I was going to try 1/10th sedan but the track is kinda small. I don't think that will fly this year.

Monster truck or Revo or whatever they ran last year - same?, I don't care.

1/8th scale buggy or truggy - there may be continued interest in this class. Could run electric 1/8th scales with it too. I would like to see that but I'm not about to spend a ton of $$ on that until the economy gets better

Those are my thoughts. Keeps it down to a reasonable number of classes. Perhaps I'll make up a questionaire sometime when I'm in the office and not feeling like doing real work