Old TC Cars - Still Racing Competitively
#1007
Tech Master
Lol
Actually I text you quite awhile ago with no response. I definitely want that lower deck 2mm. And those shock towers. If you have fiber lytes part numbers. Please send them my way. Thanks
#1009
Tech Rookie
I have a TC4 with a BMI chassis and a ton of parts.Plus I have been thinking about getting back into TC racing. But I was hoping not but a new car yet. What's the chance this car could a competitor? Of course I will updating my electronics package. Thanks for looking
#1010
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
If you are willing to part with a little money, you can have a very nice touring car for $200 new:
https://www.vbcracing.com/collection...-d-05-vbc-ck33
#1011
Once you get the tc4 to make the minimum weight, it will be just as fast as any other chassis out there....
#1013
Tech Rookie
Thanks for all the info
#1014
Tech Addict
iTrader: (11)
James
#1016
The older "style" the track the better you will do with it. Black CRC carpet will be tough.. outdoor ashphalt you will do ok.. it has droop screws its a central pully system.. CF double deck.. the cutouts on it will allow the chassis to flex a fair bit. This will be the hardest thing to dial out on indoor carpet.
James
James
#1017
I took my Top Photon out for a spin with an old Speed passion V3 21.5 motor and was only a few tenths off what the quick people where doing a lap.
I really feel there isnt much more in newer chassis on outdoor tracks. But saying this my car is only 12 packs old and I will be updating soon
I really feel there isnt much more in newer chassis on outdoor tracks. But saying this my car is only 12 packs old and I will be updating soon
#1019
Tech Fanatic
HPI Pro 4
Tamiya TB Evolution 5
Tamiya TB Evolution 5
Last edited by GuyIsDamGood; 10-29-2018 at 09:17 AM.
#1020
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
I race locally in Indianapolis in VTA (Indy RC Raceway) on black CRC carpet. I race a TC3 with a ball diff and I am still competitive against the latest and greatest cars, including several Awesomatix A800s. The guys racing these better cars have qualified/finished on the podium at major VTA events. Last Friday I was racing for the first time with Protoform VTA tires on HPI wheels. My fast laps were within a tenth of the fast guys. The only thing my car was lacking was a bit of overall grip. I think my tires just need a little bit more time to break-in, but I was being lazy and didn't feel like working very much on the setup of the car that night.
Since I race on a small track with a lot of 180's, the biggest improvement I made to the car was to get it as close as possible to minimum weight. I mainly just switched to a shorty lipo, It isn't even the best shorty available, as it is a 4000 mah battery with an okay "C" rating. I'm also running the basic composite drive shaft, dog bones, and plastic diffs which are lighter than any aluminum parts. I'm using a 60amp Justock speed control and a Novak Balllistic motor. Most of the fast guys are running newer motors and better batteries, but when I get my setup right, I'm right there with them.
It is possible to race any decent touring car in VTA if you accept the cars limitation and just work with what you've got. Now I wouldn't suggest that someone new to the hobby can be competitive with any older car. But the only real reasons for someone to run a newer car is current setup information (for the surfaces/tires we are racing on) and parts availability. If someone new is planning on running older equipment though, it is a good idea for a more experienced racer to make sure the old/used car they get is in good running order AND has a decent amount of spares.
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I forgot to add that if you are going old school, dig out your old FM radio too. I was using my old Futaba 3PK with a FM/PCM module in it. It is fun to annoy the other drivers on the stand with my 3 ft long transmitter antennae.
Since I race on a small track with a lot of 180's, the biggest improvement I made to the car was to get it as close as possible to minimum weight. I mainly just switched to a shorty lipo, It isn't even the best shorty available, as it is a 4000 mah battery with an okay "C" rating. I'm also running the basic composite drive shaft, dog bones, and plastic diffs which are lighter than any aluminum parts. I'm using a 60amp Justock speed control and a Novak Balllistic motor. Most of the fast guys are running newer motors and better batteries, but when I get my setup right, I'm right there with them.
It is possible to race any decent touring car in VTA if you accept the cars limitation and just work with what you've got. Now I wouldn't suggest that someone new to the hobby can be competitive with any older car. But the only real reasons for someone to run a newer car is current setup information (for the surfaces/tires we are racing on) and parts availability. If someone new is planning on running older equipment though, it is a good idea for a more experienced racer to make sure the old/used car they get is in good running order AND has a decent amount of spares.
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I forgot to add that if you are going old school, dig out your old FM radio too. I was using my old Futaba 3PK with a FM/PCM module in it. It is fun to annoy the other drivers on the stand with my 3 ft long transmitter antennae.