ALTOONA RACEWAY FORUM
09-09-2007, 12:05 AM
#917
Tech Rookie
for doug
.
Last edited by Drifthead; 09-09-2007 at 01:50 AM.
09-09-2007, 05:38 AM
#918
09-09-2007, 05:40 AM
#919
IcE, any updates on Project Special Ed? Does the car have it's sposor logos on yet?
09-09-2007, 02:54 PM
#920
Tech Rookie
ed
hey this is ted what was the touring car info
09-09-2007, 04:47 PM
#922
Tech Rookie
Is the Touring Class basicly Gear boxed 4x4 onroad Cars???Is there a pile of you guys using Brushless and what do you think about them vs Brushed? I looked online and Good Grief there are all kinds.Thanks Mike
09-09-2007, 05:20 PM
#923
Mike,
The best touring cars are 4wd belt driven with 2 diffs and there are a lot of great kits out there.
Most of us are starting to switch to Brushless systems. All you've read about them is pretty much true. The motors are fast and dont require maintenance. I've have not needed to touch the motor in my T4 for 15+ race weekends.
The only downside is that sometimes brushless systems go into thermal shutdown, but usually only if you overgear them or try to run them without their cooling fans. Sometimes motors can burn a sensor or cook a bearing without warning. But most motors last 6 months to a year and some even longer.
The newest 13.5 turn brushless motors are being made to replace 27 turn brushed stock. The class is new and we expect it to be big.
For racing, you will want a brushless system that uses sensors on the motors so the esc can run them more smoothly. The two best ESCs are the Novak GTB and the LRP Sphere. I have a Novak GTB esc and really like it, but I think the LRP Sphere is just a little bit better/smoother.
Novak just released a Brushless XBR sport ESC and 13.5 motor system for under $200 which looks like a pretty good value to me.
Novak, LRP, and Orion all make 13.5 brushless motors and I've read good things about them all. Trinity is also about to release a 13.5 brushless motor too. The main thing to look for in a brushless motor is something called a sintered rotor which is nickel plated and helps brushless motors run with more power and a little bit cooler too.
Thats about it - stick with Novak, LRP, or even Orion (motor only) and you cant go wrong.
The other thing you might want to consider is a lipo battery. You only need one on raceday and can repeak it 10x a day if you have too and they actually cool down as you charge them. I've been doing just that all summer and my Lipos feel just as good as when they were new. I was told they could last 2-3 years before any drop off is noticed.
The times, they are a changing.
The best touring cars are 4wd belt driven with 2 diffs and there are a lot of great kits out there.
Most of us are starting to switch to Brushless systems. All you've read about them is pretty much true. The motors are fast and dont require maintenance. I've have not needed to touch the motor in my T4 for 15+ race weekends.
The only downside is that sometimes brushless systems go into thermal shutdown, but usually only if you overgear them or try to run them without their cooling fans. Sometimes motors can burn a sensor or cook a bearing without warning. But most motors last 6 months to a year and some even longer.
The newest 13.5 turn brushless motors are being made to replace 27 turn brushed stock. The class is new and we expect it to be big.
For racing, you will want a brushless system that uses sensors on the motors so the esc can run them more smoothly. The two best ESCs are the Novak GTB and the LRP Sphere. I have a Novak GTB esc and really like it, but I think the LRP Sphere is just a little bit better/smoother.
Novak just released a Brushless XBR sport ESC and 13.5 motor system for under $200 which looks like a pretty good value to me.
Novak, LRP, and Orion all make 13.5 brushless motors and I've read good things about them all. Trinity is also about to release a 13.5 brushless motor too. The main thing to look for in a brushless motor is something called a sintered rotor which is nickel plated and helps brushless motors run with more power and a little bit cooler too.
Thats about it - stick with Novak, LRP, or even Orion (motor only) and you cant go wrong.
The other thing you might want to consider is a lipo battery. You only need one on raceday and can repeak it 10x a day if you have too and they actually cool down as you charge them. I've been doing just that all summer and my Lipos feel just as good as when they were new. I was told they could last 2-3 years before any drop off is noticed.
The times, they are a changing.
09-09-2007, 05:55 PM
#924
Well after some thought I am the proud owner of a TC-5!! Looks like OVAL and touring for me this carpet season! Can't wait for it to start!
09-09-2007, 05:57 PM
#925
Tech Rookie
Thanks for that info Ed!! Sounds like it will be Brushless for me. Sounds like the benifits out way the price. Does all the brushless speedcontrols shut down the Lipos not to damage them if they drop to low? Also,are the races still 4 minute heats?? Mike
09-09-2007, 06:03 PM
#926
Tech Rookie
09-09-2007, 06:15 PM
#927
Thanks, man.......I just hope I can drive it like a beast. I'm a big left turn only guy so this should prove to be a challenge!
I'm almost positive that the newest Novak GTB speed controls have a built in lipo cutoff! So there is no chance of you damaging that sweet lipo battery! Go to www.teamnovak.com there is some helpfull info there on the newest products they have to offer.
And last....don't let all of that technical mubo jumbo scare you. It's all fairley easy to adapt to and learn about!
09-09-2007, 06:48 PM
#928
Tech Rookie
Thanks for the Info Gixx,I'll check it out.The Touring Class Looks like one I want to do too.As slow as I will be going,my rubber should last 10 years.
09-09-2007, 06:49 PM
#929
Mike, Races are now 6 minutes long. I could easily run for almost 15 minutes on a single 4900 mah lipo in my stadium truck. Touring cars consume more power so I expect maybe 8-10 minutes of runtime.
Gixxer (Brad) is right - the newest ESCs have Lipo protection cutoff. My older 2 year old Novak GTB does not have it, but I am not concerned because all I have to do is just pull over once it starts to drop off to protect it.
Gixxer (Brad) is right - the newest ESCs have Lipo protection cutoff. My older 2 year old Novak GTB does not have it, but I am not concerned because all I have to do is just pull over once it starts to drop off to protect it.
