Team Br00d Racing Motors
06-04-2007, 10:45 PM
#3931
i am looking to get a br00d stock motor, and that post a few up helped answer most of my stock motor questions but i have a few more...
-how big of a difference is there between the three levels of build?
im not too familiar with motor tech so all the fancy jargon on there doesnt mean a whole lot to me.
im racing 2wd offroad, looks like the monster or co27 are good all around like you said. i currently run a monster stock and it is great but not fast enough to keep up with the other racers' tuned motors.
-would one of those be my best choice?
I race with br00d drivers Dakotah Phend and Al Horne in the Factory Tracks Midwest Series that you sponsor here in MI and that kid is FAST. so i figured i would check you out and support a sponsor.
(ps-Al's last name is missing the e on the site)
-how big of a difference is there between the three levels of build?
im not too familiar with motor tech so all the fancy jargon on there doesnt mean a whole lot to me.
im racing 2wd offroad, looks like the monster or co27 are good all around like you said. i currently run a monster stock and it is great but not fast enough to keep up with the other racers' tuned motors.
-would one of those be my best choice?
I race with br00d drivers Dakotah Phend and Al Horne in the Factory Tracks Midwest Series that you sponsor here in MI and that kid is FAST. so i figured i would check you out and support a sponsor.
(ps-Al's last name is missing the e on the site)
06-05-2007, 08:10 AM
#3932
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Blueprinted has the biggest difference over any of the other builds. When we blueprint out a motor we sit with it on the dyno and work it until it puts out the most possible power; if we cannot get it to perform it is discarded and another one is built. Blueprinted is the absolute best motor we provide, and you get a motor you know is 100% race ready.
The other levels of building are good, but I would go with a Pro or Blueprinted if you just want to slap it in your car and go racing. For bashing, a built motor is sufficient.
In 2WD off road you are not really fighting for tenths of a second like you do in on road so the Pro version would be more than enough, but for only $2 you get someone to really work the motor and make sure it's top notch.
The other levels of building are good, but I would go with a Pro or Blueprinted if you just want to slap it in your car and go racing. For bashing, a built motor is sufficient.
In 2WD off road you are not really fighting for tenths of a second like you do in on road so the Pro version would be more than enough, but for only $2 you get someone to really work the motor and make sure it's top notch.
06-05-2007, 08:13 AM
#3933
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NEWS..
We're almost done moving. Orders placed in the last week were delayed 2-4 days because of the move. Built motors could not be assembled as we had no work area. Over the next few days we will be setting our shop back up. We apologize for the delay but this was a necessary move on our part.
We're almost done moving. Orders placed in the last week were delayed 2-4 days because of the move. Built motors could not be assembled as we had no work area. Over the next few days we will be setting our shop back up. We apologize for the delay but this was a necessary move on our part.
06-12-2007, 10:29 AM
#3934
NEWS..
We're almost done moving. Orders placed in the last week were delayed 2-4 days because of the move. Built motors could not be assembled as we had no work area. Over the next few days we will be setting our shop back up. We apologize for the delay but this was a necessary move on our part.
We're almost done moving. Orders placed in the last week were delayed 2-4 days because of the move. Built motors could not be assembled as we had no work area. Over the next few days we will be setting our shop back up. We apologize for the delay but this was a necessary move on our part.
I have some questions as well, here goes.....................
1. What springs to use for replacements on blueprinted motor? (1/10 TC Asphalt)
2. What brushes to use for replacements on BP motor? (1/10th TC)
3. What parts should I replace when I cut the comm/service the motor?
Thanks
06-12-2007, 03:25 PM
#3936
order status???
hi,
i know you guys moved and all buts its been a few weeks....i was trying to check on my order stratus? order #3144 a 40 turn checkpoint crawling motor. thanx alot,
dave marsh
[email protected]
i know you guys moved and all buts its been a few weeks....i was trying to check on my order stratus? order #3144 a 40 turn checkpoint crawling motor. thanx alot,
dave marsh
[email protected]
06-12-2007, 07:01 PM
#3937
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David,
Yeah it's been awhile...Sorry for the delay. Your motor shipped today, sorry you did not get the update email but I did not have time to update the order status today on the web site.
It pulls 6,600 RPM at 5.0V. Should be a pretty sweet motor, and we hope you like it!
We've finally gotten our store mostly unpacked and are back in full production. We do apologize for the delay some of you had to deal with, I tried to avoid it but there was simply no way for us to function with everything in boxes. Our shop is small; 3 employees. We had 5 people help with the move, but really only one or two of us (which is me basically) are able to unpack and put things back in order...so it takes awhile. The motor shop is up and running, and more organized than ever.
In the next few weeks you will see more and more inventory on teambrood.com, soon we'll be on par with some of the largest online distributors.
We are 100% up and running again... It's good to be done with the move.
Yeah it's been awhile...Sorry for the delay. Your motor shipped today, sorry you did not get the update email but I did not have time to update the order status today on the web site.
It pulls 6,600 RPM at 5.0V. Should be a pretty sweet motor, and we hope you like it!
We've finally gotten our store mostly unpacked and are back in full production. We do apologize for the delay some of you had to deal with, I tried to avoid it but there was simply no way for us to function with everything in boxes. Our shop is small; 3 employees. We had 5 people help with the move, but really only one or two of us (which is me basically) are able to unpack and put things back in order...so it takes awhile. The motor shop is up and running, and more organized than ever.
In the next few weeks you will see more and more inventory on teambrood.com, soon we'll be on par with some of the largest online distributors.
We are 100% up and running again... It's good to be done with the move.
06-13-2007, 09:30 AM
#3938
Desolas can you give me some info on my post above please
06-13-2007, 09:55 AM
#3939
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I have an order in for a Blueprinted CO27 at the moment so thanks for the update on the move
I have some questions as well, here goes.....................
1. What springs to use for replacements on blueprinted motor? (1/10 TC Asphalt)
2. What brushes to use for replacements on BP motor? (1/10th TC)
3. What parts should I replace when I cut the comm/service the motor?
I have some questions as well, here goes.....................
1. What springs to use for replacements on blueprinted motor? (1/10 TC Asphalt)
2. What brushes to use for replacements on BP motor? (1/10th TC)
3. What parts should I replace when I cut the comm/service the motor?
2) 4499 or F-Brush are a popular choice. 4499's come with the motor, depending on the track you may want to try F Brushes or Putnam Green/Blue. Your motor will come with an extra set of 4499 brushes.
3) When rebuilding the motor you should only need to replace the brushes, if they are worn out. Brushes that need to be replaced are usually burned (blackened toward the comm end), have discolored and turned purple or white/silver toward the end, or the entire brush may start to rainbow from heat. This is a sign you need to replace the brush. If the brush is not over heating, it will wear down to the point where the spring is not keeping proper tension on the comm. You should replace the brush at this point.
You may find you can cut the comm a couple of times before having to replace the brush. Clean the face of the brush and break them in.
Other than that, in time you may need to replace the springs. Heat cycles soften and change the spring rate. You should not need to replace anything else when rebuilding the motor. Bushings, shims, the brush hood and can typically last the entire life of the motor.
Thanks!
06-13-2007, 10:59 AM
#3940
1) Asphalt TC typically use red/red springs.
2) 4499 or F-Brush are a popular choice. 4499's come with the motor, depending on the track you may want to try F Brushes or Putnam Green/Blue. Your motor will come with an extra set of 4499 brushes.
3) When rebuilding the motor you should only need to replace the brushes, if they are worn out. Brushes that need to be replaced are usually burned (blackened toward the comm end), have discolored and turned purple or white/silver toward the end, or the entire brush may start to rainbow from heat. This is a sign you need to replace the brush. If the brush is not over heating, it will wear down to the point where the spring is not keeping proper tension on the comm. You should replace the brush at this point.
You may find you can cut the comm a couple of times before having to replace the brush. Clean the face of the brush and break them in.
Other than that, in time you may need to replace the springs. Heat cycles soften and change the spring rate. You should not need to replace anything else when rebuilding the motor. Bushings, shims, the brush hood and can typically last the entire life of the motor.
Thanks!
2) 4499 or F-Brush are a popular choice. 4499's come with the motor, depending on the track you may want to try F Brushes or Putnam Green/Blue. Your motor will come with an extra set of 4499 brushes.
3) When rebuilding the motor you should only need to replace the brushes, if they are worn out. Brushes that need to be replaced are usually burned (blackened toward the comm end), have discolored and turned purple or white/silver toward the end, or the entire brush may start to rainbow from heat. This is a sign you need to replace the brush. If the brush is not over heating, it will wear down to the point where the spring is not keeping proper tension on the comm. You should replace the brush at this point.
You may find you can cut the comm a couple of times before having to replace the brush. Clean the face of the brush and break them in.
Other than that, in time you may need to replace the springs. Heat cycles soften and change the spring rate. You should not need to replace anything else when rebuilding the motor. Bushings, shims, the brush hood and can typically last the entire life of the motor.
Thanks!
06-14-2007, 04:43 AM
#3941
Hi to all the boffins etc.
I purchased 2 x 27 turn epic roar blue printed motors not so long ago, they work very well, my question is are they Roar legal, I have been told not so since the armature has a tag EPKSTK. We have a national event comming up and I dont want to be disqualified by using it. ANy feedback would be great.
thanks, keep those motors screaming guys
I purchased 2 x 27 turn epic roar blue printed motors not so long ago, they work very well, my question is are they Roar legal, I have been told not so since the armature has a tag EPKSTK. We have a national event comming up and I dont want to be disqualified by using it. ANy feedback would be great.
thanks, keep those motors screaming guys
06-14-2007, 07:36 PM
#3942
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Yes, the ROAR X and ROAR Stock is ROAR legal.
06-14-2007, 10:41 PM
#3943
please read this below, was sent to me by a very good friend, he took some time to research.
This was from an email Mike Wood from Trinity sent me a while back and backs up what JB has told me as well.
EP1111 & EP1112(Pro) - Epic Roar Stock - Tan/Gold can - 2 magnets - Tag "Epic27".....36 lamination arm, count them under a magnifying glass, . You cannot simply cailiper them cause every stack is not exact. and meets the 64" wire length rule
Legal for ARCOR.
EP1102 & EP1103(Pro) Binary Outlaw Stock - Quad Can - Silverish in color - Tag "EPSTK27" has 36 laminations as well but does not meet the required wire length of 64", therefore not legal.
RC2140 & RC2141(Pro) Monster stock - 2 magnets - Green can - Tag "Epic27" - 40 laminations - 64" wire - legal
A while back Trinity had a mixup and sold some 40 lamination monster replacement arms out with the wrong tag "Epstk27", which you could send in for one with the correct tag "Epic27". I got stuck with one of those.
The same comments are on the RC Tech forum. Hope this is the explanation.
This was from an email Mike Wood from Trinity sent me a while back and backs up what JB has told me as well.
EP1111 & EP1112(Pro) - Epic Roar Stock - Tan/Gold can - 2 magnets - Tag "Epic27".....36 lamination arm, count them under a magnifying glass, . You cannot simply cailiper them cause every stack is not exact. and meets the 64" wire length rule
Legal for ARCOR.
EP1102 & EP1103(Pro) Binary Outlaw Stock - Quad Can - Silverish in color - Tag "EPSTK27" has 36 laminations as well but does not meet the required wire length of 64", therefore not legal.
RC2140 & RC2141(Pro) Monster stock - 2 magnets - Green can - Tag "Epic27" - 40 laminations - 64" wire - legal
A while back Trinity had a mixup and sold some 40 lamination monster replacement arms out with the wrong tag "Epstk27", which you could send in for one with the correct tag "Epic27". I got stuck with one of those.
The same comments are on the RC Tech forum. Hope this is the explanation.
06-15-2007, 10:25 AM
#3944
From a rules stand point, ROAR doesnt approve the little tag lettering......the arm itself just needs to be tagged that its a stock or 19t.....companies have changed the wording, font, etc many times over the years....
The only thing that would make it illegal is if the specs of the actual arm were mixed up....ie, it had the wrong amount of laminations or something similar.
So, if the arm specs are correct......the name on the tag does little as long as it IDs it as a epic 27t stock.....
The binary 2 mag and 4 mag arms were illegal not because of wire length, but because they were epoxy balanced.....I measured the wire, they met the 64 inch better than most of the trinity products at the time.
Later EddieO
The only thing that would make it illegal is if the specs of the actual arm were mixed up....ie, it had the wrong amount of laminations or something similar.
So, if the arm specs are correct......the name on the tag does little as long as it IDs it as a epic 27t stock.....
The binary 2 mag and 4 mag arms were illegal not because of wire length, but because they were epoxy balanced.....I measured the wire, they met the 64 inch better than most of the trinity products at the time.
Later EddieO
