Trinity and ReVtech Motors discussion
#1261
I think the revtechs are a ticking timebomb for offroad use, particularly in some car designs.
The thin rib design sure looks cool and probably helps with heat but it leaves us with a structurally weak motor
I saw a few other folks with loose stators in this thread, but I think I know why, and I think its a design problem.
The thin rib design sure looks cool and probably helps with heat but it leaves us with a structurally weak motor
- The thin ribs have no bracing around the front circumference, at least for the non-mod motors
- The screws only secure the cap to the cap and board, they don't locate the stator at all.
- The Stator is primarily glued in place. There might be some minor mechanical interference with the can, but it is weak at best
- Output shaft facing the direction of travel primarily, but may apply to all orientations over longer periods
- Off road use where the car is likely to experience sharp impacts, particularly from things like a missed double where the car goes nose first into a jump face
- The stator became completely detached from the can, both mechanically and adhesively
- This allowed it to rotate in relation to the rotor and allow wobble side to side a bit
- The thin arms of the can became slightly bowed outwards as if the front of the motor was pushed slightly backwards, compressing the can length.
- Is there is any play at all in shimming the entire back of the motor can move forward on impact as the rotor shaft won't act like bracing.
- This causes the strips to bow out since there is no circumference bracing to prevent expansion at the front of the motor or long screws to share the load.
- The bowing causes the glue connecting the stator to the can to crack
- Cracked glue further accelerates the process and soon you have a free floating stator.
I saw a few other folks with loose stators in this thread, but I think I know why, and I think its a design problem.
#1262
Does anyone have real world experience with gluing the stator? Trinity will do the job for $20 but with shipping both ways it is getting to be a toss up on being worth it. Stator seems to fit snug and goes right back into place. Can I just flow some CA glue in there and call it a day? Is it more technical then that?
Thanks for any info on this repair.
Thanks for any info on this repair.
#1263
Super Moderator
iTrader: (239)
Does anyone have real world experience with gluing the stator? Trinity will do the job for $20 but with shipping both ways it is getting to be a toss up on being worth it. Stator seems to fit snug and goes right back into place. Can I just flow some CA glue in there and call it a day? Is it more technical then that?
Thanks for any info on this repair.
Thanks for any info on this repair.
#1267
Tech Adept
Started running the X-Factor in 13.5 1/12 scale but can't seem to find a sweet spot for the timing.
What is a good starting point?
Thanks
What is a good starting point?
Thanks
#1272
They look sweet. Like a old school mod slot car motor.
Last edited by jasburrito; 01-26-2022 at 06:51 PM.
#1273
Tech Elite
iTrader: (65)
I think the revtechs are a ticking timebomb for offroad use, particularly in some car designs.
The thin rib design sure looks cool and probably helps with heat but it leaves us with a structurally weak motor
I saw a few other folks with loose stators in this thread, but I think I know why, and I think its a design problem.
The thin rib design sure looks cool and probably helps with heat but it leaves us with a structurally weak motor
- The thin ribs have no bracing around the front circumference, at least for the non-mod motors
- The screws only secure the cap to the cap and board, they don't locate the stator at all.
- The Stator is primarily glued in place. There might be some minor mechanical interference with the can, but it is weak at best
- Output shaft facing the direction of travel primarily, but may apply to all orientations over longer periods
- Off road use where the car is likely to experience sharp impacts, particularly from things like a missed double where the car goes nose first into a jump face
- The stator became completely detached from the can, both mechanically and adhesively
- This allowed it to rotate in relation to the rotor and allow wobble side to side a bit
- The thin arms of the can became slightly bowed outwards as if the front of the motor was pushed slightly backwards, compressing the can length.
- Is there is any play at all in shimming the entire back of the motor can move forward on impact as the rotor shaft won't act like bracing.
- This causes the strips to bow out since there is no circumference bracing to prevent expansion at the front of the motor or long screws to share the load.
- The bowing causes the glue connecting the stator to the can to crack
- Cracked glue further accelerates the process and soon you have a free floating stator.
I saw a few other folks with loose stators in this thread, but I think I know why, and I think its a design problem.
OK, however, I never had a DNF with mine for the last 5 years running them...
#1275
This might be a stupid question but I can not seem to find the answer. What motors is the TEP1119 rotor legal in for spec classes? Is the TEP1117 the only legal rotor for the revtech 25.5 turn motor?