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Old 11-19-2021, 12:56 PM
  #1261  
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I think the revtechs are a ticking timebomb for offroad use, particularly in some car designs.

The thin rib design sure looks cool and probably helps with heat but it leaves us with a structurally weak motor
  • The thin ribs have no bracing around the front circumference, at least for the non-mod motors
  • The screws only secure the cap to the cap and board, they don't locate the stator at all.
  • The Stator is primarily glued in place. There might be some minor mechanical interference with the can, but it is weak at best
This gives the opportunity for failure in some cases
  • Output shaft facing the direction of travel primarily, but may apply to all orientations over longer periods
  • Off road use where the car is likely to experience sharp impacts, particularly from things like a missed double where the car goes nose first into a jump face
To understand why, let me explain the mode of failure.
  • The stator became completely detached from the can, both mechanically and adhesively
  • This allowed it to rotate in relation to the rotor and allow wobble side to side a bit
  • The thin arms of the can became slightly bowed outwards as if the front of the motor was pushed slightly backwards, compressing the can length.
My theory is that on hard impacts the heavy stator is being slammed forward from inertia. This might be similar if you hit a wall or case a jump. There is a lot of mass and it is only attached to the front of the motor by a few fairly thin aluminum strips.
  • Is there is any play at all in shimming the entire back of the motor can move forward on impact as the rotor shaft won't act like bracing.
  • This causes the strips to bow out since there is no circumference bracing to prevent expansion at the front of the motor or long screws to share the load.
  • The bowing causes the glue connecting the stator to the can to crack
  • Cracked glue further accelerates the process and soon you have a free floating stator.
I could see this affecting motors from other directions of impact, but it would probably be a bit slower process. Failing a double can be particularly violent and it would be on an axis to crack all the glue.

I saw a few other folks with loose stators in this thread, but I think I know why, and I think its a design problem.
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Old 11-22-2021, 06:15 PM
  #1262  
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Does anyone have real world experience with gluing the stator? Trinity will do the job for $20 but with shipping both ways it is getting to be a toss up on being worth it. Stator seems to fit snug and goes right back into place. Can I just flow some CA glue in there and call it a day? Is it more technical then that?

Thanks for any info on this repair.
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Old 11-23-2021, 05:02 AM
  #1263  
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Originally Posted by Poor_Boy
Does anyone have real world experience with gluing the stator? Trinity will do the job for $20 but with shipping both ways it is getting to be a toss up on being worth it. Stator seems to fit snug and goes right back into place. Can I just flow some CA glue in there and call it a day? Is it more technical then that?

Thanks for any info on this repair.
when i got my first Revtech and had issue with the stator i did use a little CA glue and never had an issue again.
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Old 11-23-2021, 05:26 AM
  #1264  
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J
when i got my first Revtech and had issue with the stator i did use a little CA glue and never had an issue again.
Perfect I will go this route. Thanks for the reply.
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Old 11-23-2021, 05:45 AM
  #1265  
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Originally Posted by Poor_Boy
Perfect I will go this route. Thanks for the reply.
i havent had any issues with my newer motors mod or stock
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Old 11-29-2021, 06:12 PM
  #1266  
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Just ordered an X Factor 21.5 to run at the Cleveland Indoor Carpet Champs this weekend. I've never run 21.5 buggy before. What do you recommend for a starting gear ratio for an Xray XB2 on a ~96x48ft track?
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Old 12-03-2021, 06:59 PM
  #1267  
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Started running the X-Factor in 13.5 1/12 scale but can't seem to find a sweet spot for the timing.
What is a good starting point?
Thanks
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Old 12-03-2021, 07:20 PM
  #1268  
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Originally Posted by Friulimotosport
Started running the X-Factor in 13.5 1/12 scale but can't seem to find a sweet spot for the timing.
What is a good starting point?
Thanks
Start at 40ish and you should be good to go
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Old 12-04-2021, 07:07 PM
  #1269  
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Originally Posted by bertottius
Start at 40ish and you should be good to go
Great. I'll give that a try
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Old 12-09-2021, 10:54 AM
  #1270  
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Originally Posted by Friulimotosport
Started running the X-Factor in 13.5 1/12 scale but can't seem to find a sweet spot for the timing.
What is a good starting point?
Thanks
im running 47 deg in my 13.5 1/12 around 82 rollout track around 115" x 50"
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Old 12-13-2021, 05:37 AM
  #1271  
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Originally Posted by Poor_Boy
Perfect I will go this route. Thanks for the reply.
How did that work out? I have a certified plus that just had things come loose. Trying to determine the best course as it is only about 6 months old.
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Old 12-13-2021, 07:52 AM
  #1272  
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They look sweet. Like a old school mod slot car motor.

Last edited by jasburrito; 01-26-2022 at 06:51 PM.
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Old 12-27-2021, 05:10 PM
  #1273  
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Originally Posted by TheRulesLawyer
I think the revtechs are a ticking timebomb for offroad use, particularly in some car designs.

The thin rib design sure looks cool and probably helps with heat but it leaves us with a structurally weak motor
  • The thin ribs have no bracing around the front circumference, at least for the non-mod motors
  • The screws only secure the cap to the cap and board, they don't locate the stator at all.
  • The Stator is primarily glued in place. There might be some minor mechanical interference with the can, but it is weak at best
This gives the opportunity for failure in some cases
  • Output shaft facing the direction of travel primarily, but may apply to all orientations over longer periods
  • Off road use where the car is likely to experience sharp impacts, particularly from things like a missed double where the car goes nose first into a jump face
To understand why, let me explain the mode of failure.
  • The stator became completely detached from the can, both mechanically and adhesively
  • This allowed it to rotate in relation to the rotor and allow wobble side to side a bit
  • The thin arms of the can became slightly bowed outwards as if the front of the motor was pushed slightly backwards, compressing the can length.
My theory is that on hard impacts the heavy stator is being slammed forward from inertia. This might be similar if you hit a wall or case a jump. There is a lot of mass and it is only attached to the front of the motor by a few fairly thin aluminum strips.
  • Is there is any play at all in shimming the entire back of the motor can move forward on impact as the rotor shaft won't act like bracing.
  • This causes the strips to bow out since there is no circumference bracing to prevent expansion at the front of the motor or long screws to share the load.
  • The bowing causes the glue connecting the stator to the can to crack
  • Cracked glue further accelerates the process and soon you have a free floating stator.
I could see this affecting motors from other directions of impact, but it would probably be a bit slower process. Failing a double can be particularly violent and it would be on an axis to crack all the glue.

I saw a few other folks with loose stators in this thread, but I think I know why, and I think its a design problem.

OK, however, I never had a DNF with mine for the last 5 years running them...
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Old 12-28-2021, 01:02 AM
  #1274  
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Originally Posted by Antimullet
OK, however, I never had a DNF with mine for the last 5 years running them...
When do you think the current Revtech motors were released?
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Old 12-29-2021, 05:05 PM
  #1275  
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This might be a stupid question but I can not seem to find the answer. What motors is the TEP1119 rotor legal in for spec classes? Is the TEP1117 the only legal rotor for the revtech 25.5 turn motor?
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