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Old 07-27-2006, 04:29 PM
  #4486  
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports
I just wanted to drop in and Welcome new and upcoming racer Mike Wise....Ok so maybe he's not new but he is making a name for him self and his Yokomo!! Hope he's got an alumn shaft in that car.....Carbon fiber just isnt going to cut it anymore

EA

Thanks EA, and I look forward to running your motors this upcomming Fall season!
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Old 07-27-2006, 05:49 PM
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Default Breaking in a motor?

Hello all! We are fairly new to motor rebuilding and would like some help.....
We cut the armature, check the hood alignment...new brushes....767
We run them on a LRP Comp 2 .....about 3 volts for about 300 sec's...
But we never seem to get the higher amps ....like 8 to 8.5 amps at 4 volts
is this about normal???
I know this is a long winded question...
But help is appreciated!!
Jeff
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Old 07-27-2006, 07:06 PM
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What I find 90% of the time when a customer says that their motor was fast untill they rebuilt it its usually their lathe is cutting poor..ie tapered one way or the other. The other 10% is usually either brush hoods are out of wack or the brushes they are using are from a not so good batch.

I would have someone else true the comm on their lathe and then re-assemble it and see if that helps.

EA
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Old 07-27-2006, 07:10 PM
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I ordered some of your F brushes tonight....they should be good right? LOL
Thanks for the suggestions!!
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Old 07-28-2006, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports
What I find 90% of the time when a customer says that their motor was fast untill they rebuilt it its usually their lathe is cutting poor..ie tapered one way or the other. The other 10% is usually either brush hoods are out of wack or the brushes they are using are from a not so good batch.

I would have someone else true the comm on their lathe and then re-assemble it and see if that helps.

EA
I never though about that but that is something i should look into is there a way to know if my lathe is not cutting right? should i use a caliper to see if my cut is right.
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Old 07-28-2006, 08:39 AM
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Usually its hard to measure unless you have a very good set of calipers....Best way is to find someone who knows that their lathe cuts straight and have them cut an arm AFTER you have just cut it. A very light pass will tell real quick if its straight or not.

EA
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Old 07-28-2006, 08:46 AM
  #4492  
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports
Usually its hard to measure unless you have a very good set of calipers....Best way is to find someone who knows that their lathe cuts straight and have them cut an arm AFTER you have just cut it. A very light pass will tell real quick if its straight or not.

EA
Word,
That is exactly what was wrong with mine...A simple squaring up the blocks and all is right in the world..
Hey Eric,
I know it has been a long time.....
Been running Nitro Truggy for a while...
Still running your stuff in the B4 though...
Sold all the On Road stuff....But I have been getting an itch to get a TC and give it a go again..LOL
Hope all is well on your end....
-Shookie <><
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Old 07-30-2006, 04:13 AM
  #4493  
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Originally Posted by LWracer
Hello all! We are fairly new to motor rebuilding and would like some help.....
We cut the armature, check the hood alignment...new brushes....767
We run them on a LRP Comp 2 .....about 3 volts for about 300 sec's...
But we never seem to get the higher amps ....like 8 to 8.5 amps at 4 volts
is this about normal???
I know this is a long winded question...
But help is appreciated!!
Jeff
re-shim and solder new set of brushes.
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Old 07-30-2006, 06:50 AM
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Hey Eric

Took my first TQ at local club meeting today. Was running an EA Co27, with EA IB38's, all mounted in my nice new Evo5.... first time racing in about 5weeks, so felt a little rusty... was completely confused over gearing to start with, ended up on about 7.2fdr, which might have been a little low (revving out a bit too early down the straight)... but was punchy as hell

Finals, one the first one by over a lap, but unfortuantly clipped a pipe in the second and stripped the spur... Doh! Ended up 3rd overall because of that, but comfortably the fastest car in the final, consistant sub 10sec laps compared to everyone else over 10. All in all, a good day, gives me good confidence for the next national at Aldershot... which I might also have my other new car (MSX Marc R Edition ).
Hope I can get the C2 working, was still giving glitching at southend, even when I switched back to 767's, really confused as to why thats happening.

Cheers
Ed
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Old 07-30-2006, 10:40 AM
  #4495  
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Hey Eric,
got a question re KD19 and how to keep it cool. Been running at our local outdoor track today geared it to just top out by the end of the straight but boy did it come of hot! To hot to hold which aint good! Been using 767's with red springs. Anything you can suggest?
Been running 5.3 to 5.1 with an atlas and 5.5 with the KD does this sound right to you?
Any advice greatly recieved...

Paul
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Old 07-30-2006, 10:59 AM
  #4496  
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Originally Posted by mutley001
Hey Eric,
got a question re KD19 and how to keep it cool. Been running at our local outdoor track today geared it to just top out by the end of the straight but boy did it come of hot! To hot to hold which aint good! Been using 767's with red springs. Anything you can suggest?
Been running 5.3 to 5.1 with an atlas and 5.5 with the KD does this sound right to you?
Any advice greatly recieved...

Paul
Hey Paul,

The KD's do run hot...It sounds like your overgeared to me though. It should top out around 3/4 of the way down the straight. You can try narrowing the brushes by .005-.010 off of each side. It will reduce the overlap and drop the amp draw down some. This will give it more torque with less RPM but will run a lot cooler.

EA
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Old 07-30-2006, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports
Hey Paul,

The KD's do run hot...It sounds like your overgeared to me though. It should top out around 3/4 of the way down the straight. You can try narrowing the brushes by .005-.010 off of each side. It will reduce the overlap and drop the amp draw down some. This will give it more torque with less RPM but will run a lot cooler.

EA
Thanks Eric, will try it next weekend and let you know how I get on...

Paul
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Old 07-31-2006, 07:08 AM
  #4498  
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Still got a few X stocks and Roar stocks on the website. Working on a fresh batch of IB4200 SHV's right now as well. You want Voltage? High runtime? Low IR's? These are the cells for you then!! They have it all

EA
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Old 07-31-2006, 07:19 AM
  #4499  
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Default IB4200 SHV rock!!

Well Eric-for anyone who hasnt tried them yet-the SHV 4200's are the real deal. They are so fast. I am not 100% sure I couldnt finish two 5 minute heats on one charge as I discharged over 200 sec at 35 amps AFTER a 5-minute stock TC race!! I wouldnt, but I think I could!!!

The pack ran even faster on the 2nd charge. I cannot wait for charge 3, 4, 5....
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Old 07-31-2006, 07:21 AM
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Yea the newest cells are pretty good. IB has changed the cell a little so that they mature after 5-6 runs. Its to help the life of the battery even more. So in about 2 weeks look out!!

EA
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