Fusion Batteries
#886
OK Red here is the story with Mv settings. You have to look at this in three ways all at once..... First is this settien determines your chargers sensitivity to shutting the charger off after peak(almost an after peak delay of sorts), second after a pack peaks your pack is basically going into overcharge...The Mv setting determines how much overcharge you get by monitoring the delta voltage movement, having said that it is also kinda like a thermometer for your charger. Bigger mv per cell or pack the hotter the battery will be when it is done. So if you are in a hot environment I would go smaller on the Mv number for less overcharge/heat. Do just the opposite in a cool environment. You are looking for the temp to come to around 120 degrees F. i HOPE THAT SHEDS A LITTLE BIT OF LIGHT FOR YOU.
John
John
#887
Thanks John,
From what I understand Mv is based on each cell? i have never had a charger which uses Mv so I don't know how to set them up. In the winter I temperature charge to 115f. in the summer the ambient temp is too warm so I peak charge with a lower fallback (.03).
Chris.
From what I understand Mv is based on each cell? i have never had a charger which uses Mv so I don't know how to set them up. In the winter I temperature charge to 115f. in the summer the ambient temp is too warm so I peak charge with a lower fallback (.03).
Chris.
#888
Tech Elite
iTrader: (25)
Thanks for the tips guys. Crimson: I will try "traying" them as you suggested. John: I get the mV setting now. Thanks. BTW Fusion was well represented at the Midwest Touring Series this last weekend. My racing wasn't as spectacular as I'd hoped (I didn't have enough motor to pull the track!), but I got faster each time I was out. Nick Billie also did pretty well.
#890
Tech Fanatic
Hey can you guys recommend the best discharger for the fusion 3300 packs - for mod electric sedan applications. FYI, i have a LRP PULSAR for general discharge functions - would that be sufficient? Thx!!
#891
The common theory is to discharge at approximately the load at which you are racing. Having said that you should look for a discharger that simulates a load near which you race. You said mod so I am thinking something like the Integy zero-thirty might do the trick.
John
John
#892
Tech Fanatic
Cool I'll get that one then! I'm a little confused though....
If I get the zero-thirty , would I still need a equalizing tray?
G
If I get the zero-thirty , would I still need a equalizing tray?
G
#893
That tray is an individual cell discharger. Seems the jury is still out on if equalizing with a higher discharge rate is better or worse. However that tray will double as an equalizer of sorts.
John
John
#894
Tech Addict
JOHN MALIN
another great day in cali going to tamiya tomarrow more testing, maybe some super secret RDX testing , how are things going ? im out charlie a
#895
Tech Fanatic
Umm..couldn't I use my PULSAR to discharge the batter at 30 AMP and get a seperate equalizing tray?
G
G
#896
Tech Addict
pulsar
no 30 amp discharge try GFX
#897
Hi All,
I like discharging at 30A down to 1 volt per cell but I when I go to equalising I want it to be at a very low rate. I like the idea of having a higher resistance across the cells when taking that last little piece out and also I think with a high equalising load you depress the voltage a lot which does not help in getting the most out of your cells that you can. The cheapest integy try is about $20 and has a 0.5A discharge (at least initially anyway)
Chris
I like discharging at 30A down to 1 volt per cell but I when I go to equalising I want it to be at a very low rate. I like the idea of having a higher resistance across the cells when taking that last little piece out and also I think with a high equalising load you depress the voltage a lot which does not help in getting the most out of your cells that you can. The cheapest integy try is about $20 and has a 0.5A discharge (at least initially anyway)
Chris
#898
Tech Fanatic
Ok...it is best to have a DISCHARGER like zero-30 AND another seperate equalizer like..say a novack smar tray....
That's the part I was confused about. Is there a unit that can discharge at 30 amp and do the equalizing function at a lower amp?
G
That's the part I was confused about. Is there a unit that can discharge at 30 amp and do the equalizing function at a lower amp?
G
#899
loosenut,
I do not know of an all in one unit to do both but I would say there was a benefit to having sepperate units. The "Light Tree" dischargers seem to work ok for the higher amp discharges, just make sure it has a voltage cutoff. There is any number of cheap discharge trays which will equalise nice and slow. But do not get the equaliser which stops when the cells gets to a certain voltage. To get the best of your cells you need to keep the load on them for a fair amount of time (at least 2 hours). You can tell by how much you are putting into your cells on charge if you have equalised enough. For low run time cells you should be around 4000 on charge, for high run time cells I have seen 4300+. This does depend on age and condition to a certain extent.
Chris
I do not know of an all in one unit to do both but I would say there was a benefit to having sepperate units. The "Light Tree" dischargers seem to work ok for the higher amp discharges, just make sure it has a voltage cutoff. There is any number of cheap discharge trays which will equalise nice and slow. But do not get the equaliser which stops when the cells gets to a certain voltage. To get the best of your cells you need to keep the load on them for a fair amount of time (at least 2 hours). You can tell by how much you are putting into your cells on charge if you have equalised enough. For low run time cells you should be around 4000 on charge, for high run time cells I have seen 4300+. This does depend on age and condition to a certain extent.
Chris