109LikesTeam fantom racing
10-29-2017, 06:54 PM
#947
10-30-2017, 05:28 PM
#948
So had a chance to do some more testing on the V3 21.5 and honestly, move along, if you are considering it, don't. Good top end, numbers on the dyno are good, good low stator resistance, strong rotor, but on the track, yeah the top speed is there but just no bottom end, no urgency out of the corners, it feels, well, soft. A shame really, but it is what it is.
I personally always use my best esc/radio settings with both my fr1 v1 17.5t and 25.5t v2 motors. They perform nicely after that, but do feel on the soft side with neutral settings...
Ps: I also found out that my 17.5 tc4 had been a bit overshimmed. Now I switched to ceramic bearings(unshielded), and shimmed on the loose side of things. It should be a rocket now...lol...
10-30-2017, 06:25 PM
#949
Ok if you feel the motor is soft at the bottom, you should try some esc tricks, like more punch/lower drive frequency, in addition to increasing throttle expo to +60% or more/acceleration up to 100%(futaba), just so you can get the desired bottom end with potentially more top end. Nick Adams' tests did show a bit of a delay in acceleration in the fantom v2 motors vs the R1 wurks motors, but it was only about 0.1sec, which can be due to esc settings/radio settings ,etc, unless you already did all of the above to no avail...
I personally always use my best esc/radio settings with both my fr1 v1 17.5t and 25.5t v2 motors. They perform nicely after that, but do feel on the soft side with neutral settings...
Ps: I also found out that my 17.5 tc4 had been a bit overshimmed. Now I switched to ceramic bearings(unshielded), and shimmed on the loose side of things. It should be a rocket now...lol...
I personally always use my best esc/radio settings with both my fr1 v1 17.5t and 25.5t v2 motors. They perform nicely after that, but do feel on the soft side with neutral settings...
Ps: I also found out that my 17.5 tc4 had been a bit overshimmed. Now I switched to ceramic bearings(unshielded), and shimmed on the loose side of things. It should be a rocket now...lol...
10-30-2017, 07:02 PM
#950
I am sure he has all of the above knowledge, but still there might be something out there that he missed: nobody is perfect.....
11-03-2017, 11:50 PM
#951
I got a hold of my fr-1 17.5t v1 numbers, and there is a difference: 22.4/22.3/22.4 built for tc racing.
Rotor= 1595+ and 1598-
Rpm @ 5.0v = 12,782
Torque = 107.2 Nmm
I probably will get me the v3R plus soon.... Cheers.....
11-05-2017, 09:25 PM
#952
I guess to be as close to the Roar limit as possible, I would need a stator within the 17.8 to 18.2 range in order to keep the resistance within one milliohm(not 9.2mohms) of the roar limit between two coils at all times. After that, it will be all about setup, rotational mass, and keeping the motor frozen throughout the run...The v3R looks to be right there....Cheers...
11-06-2017, 01:53 AM
#953
Tech Initiate
Ok if you feel the motor is soft at the bottom, you should try some esc tricks, like more punch/lower drive frequency, in addition to increasing throttle expo to +60% or more/acceleration up to 100%(futaba), just so you can get the desired bottom end with potentially more top end. Nick Adams' tests did show a bit of a delay in acceleration in the fantom v2 motors vs the R1 wurks motors, but it was only about 0.1sec, which can be due to esc settings/radio settings ,etc, unless you already did all of the above to no avail...
I personally always use my best esc/radio settings with both my fr1 v1 17.5t and 25.5t v2 motors. They perform nicely after that, but do feel on the soft side with neutral settings...
Ps: I also found out that my 17.5 tc4 had been a bit overshimmed. Now I switched to ceramic bearings(unshielded), and shimmed on the loose side of things. It should be a rocket now...lol...
I personally always use my best esc/radio settings with both my fr1 v1 17.5t and 25.5t v2 motors. They perform nicely after that, but do feel on the soft side with neutral settings...
Ps: I also found out that my 17.5 tc4 had been a bit overshimmed. Now I switched to ceramic bearings(unshielded), and shimmed on the loose side of things. It should be a rocket now...lol...
11-06-2017, 02:57 PM
#955
No, just like gigaplex pointed out.... I must admit that when I put more throttle expo it will make the car very jumpy going forward, but I also add some forward trim to minimize the effect, which also increases corner speed by not allowing the throttle to go down to zero when my finger is not on the gas... The car tends to want to go forward even with my finger off the throttle, but I just make sure I am on the brakes to keep the car still at the starting line. Once the race starts, I am rarely on the brakes...
Last edited by bertrandsv87; 11-06-2017 at 03:19 PM.
11-07-2017, 04:39 AM
#957
11-07-2017, 05:01 AM
#959
11-07-2017, 08:40 AM
#960
Rotor weight doesn't affect power output. It'll only affect spool up time, and it's fairly negligible compared to the inertia from the chassis.
Comparing rotor weights between brushed and brushless motors is also irrelevant, since on a brushed motor, the heavy component is the rotor while on a brushless motor, the heavy component is the stator. It's also not the reason why brushed motors had to be zapped. They used different kinds of magnets.
Comparing rotor weights between brushed and brushless motors is also irrelevant, since on a brushed motor, the heavy component is the rotor while on a brushless motor, the heavy component is the stator. It's also not the reason why brushed motors had to be zapped. They used different kinds of magnets.
...That would give the rotor the extra mass necessary for more power on the top end without adding too much inertia since the added mass is mainly in the middle of the shaft. It might look negligible, but I can guarantee over twenty more watts on the dyno, with a broader powerband, higher top speed,etc, without affecting spool up time that much....
Remember guys, you heard it from Bert first...lol...
Hopefully fantom can get their tungsten rotors out first.....