BMI Racing Discussions
#2823
Tech Elite
Re: pballkid
Originally posted by rayhuang
I just read your first post.
Now this sounds cocky-or just sad-but I know glitching and I am 98% sure-not seeing your car- that your servos bad or your radio just took a crap.
I just read your first post.
Now this sounds cocky-or just sad-but I know glitching and I am 98% sure-not seeing your car- that your servos bad or your radio just took a crap.
#2824
Tech Champion
iTrader: (5)
Hmmm-I put a little more thought in this. Post a pic of your car as it sits. Clear pic if youve got a digital camera!!!
And last-are yu sure that you have systematically eliminated every component by putting everyone one is a different car or on the bench outside of the car?
Its so sad and its sounds like your trying really hard to figure it out-but as you know-the only way to fnd a glitch is process of elimination to the tenth degree!!
And last-are yu sure that you have systematically eliminated every component by putting everyone one is a different car or on the bench outside of the car?
Its so sad and its sounds like your trying really hard to figure it out-but as you know-the only way to fnd a glitch is process of elimination to the tenth degree!!
#2828
if it is power related, I would also try to put a smal lcap on the receiver battery connection. so when you hit the gas, the receiver still has enough power during the transition of power to the speedo
#2830
Hey Jason, got that buggy all ready for this weekend? See ya Friday.
#2832
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
p ball.. i know you said the problem is fixed, but im curious what king do servo tape do u use????
i used this 3m stuff a while back it was the best i have ever used... but it had something in it and cause the glitch....
also u gt7 guys who are having glitches...are u running the new updated novak shottky diodes... i had the same problem till i got it at nats... put it on and boom problem solved....my glitching was bad, more like a litte opposite turn of the straight, but could have been worse... try it ..
ther nw shottky has wires and a curcuit board....
also if it happens again... keep everything on the car... and take an exacto blade and run it along the carbon.... it should go silly the closer u get to the electrical noise....
is the chassis plate glued? what radio am of fm..
like i say i know u said its donebut remember these if it happens again.. then maybe it can be fixed sooner..
i used this 3m stuff a while back it was the best i have ever used... but it had something in it and cause the glitch....
also u gt7 guys who are having glitches...are u running the new updated novak shottky diodes... i had the same problem till i got it at nats... put it on and boom problem solved....my glitching was bad, more like a litte opposite turn of the straight, but could have been worse... try it ..
ther nw shottky has wires and a curcuit board....
also if it happens again... keep everything on the car... and take an exacto blade and run it along the carbon.... it should go silly the closer u get to the electrical noise....
is the chassis plate glued? what radio am of fm..
like i say i know u said its donebut remember these if it happens again.. then maybe it can be fixed sooner..
#2833
Jason,
YGM
YGM
#2834
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
Well, got back from more battles at the track.
The Chassis is really something. The car handles very true and consistent.
I will look into reduing the position of some of the electronics and backup the servo mount with some servo tape as the screws I think are not threading right causing the servo to move around. With my digital caliper I should be able to get things more equal as far as linkage.
As for my battery flying out problem, it still happened, more dramatic this time which was a shame as the car was really driving quite well. Looking at the mounts it almost seems the mounts need to be cut down alittle bit before the battery strap will come in contact with the actually batteries. Right now I see a tiny gap that is allowing them to fly out.
I am going to look into trying the battery strap ( its the stock one ) with the smooth side facing down and backing it with some foam tape to see if that holds it down better.
All in all I am happy with the chassis, glad I didn't break another drive shaft, just need to look into the battery hold down issue and I think I should be all set.
For your guys running on carpet, how good a starting point is the TC3 kit manual's carpet setting? I am thinking of setting my vehicle back to these settings as a starting point, with about 10W oil less front, about 5lb spring rate less front and rear, and more droop as the track is alittle bumpy where I run.
Thanks.
The Chassis is really something. The car handles very true and consistent.
I will look into reduing the position of some of the electronics and backup the servo mount with some servo tape as the screws I think are not threading right causing the servo to move around. With my digital caliper I should be able to get things more equal as far as linkage.
As for my battery flying out problem, it still happened, more dramatic this time which was a shame as the car was really driving quite well. Looking at the mounts it almost seems the mounts need to be cut down alittle bit before the battery strap will come in contact with the actually batteries. Right now I see a tiny gap that is allowing them to fly out.
I am going to look into trying the battery strap ( its the stock one ) with the smooth side facing down and backing it with some foam tape to see if that holds it down better.
All in all I am happy with the chassis, glad I didn't break another drive shaft, just need to look into the battery hold down issue and I think I should be all set.
For your guys running on carpet, how good a starting point is the TC3 kit manual's carpet setting? I am thinking of setting my vehicle back to these settings as a starting point, with about 10W oil less front, about 5lb spring rate less front and rear, and more droop as the track is alittle bumpy where I run.
Thanks.
#2835
try this setup..
Front
70wt
#2 pistons
yellow springs
rear tower on the front on the inside hole
inner hole on the arm
losi 4 degree hubs
losi knuckles
f+0 block
-2 camber
zero tow in
camber link short and high
3mm of down travel
5mm of ride height
rear
50wt
#2 pistons
out on the tower and arm
Purple Springs
camber on the tower high and inside
losi 1/2 degree hubs (not flipped) with camber on the inside hole
hubs spaced in the middle
front block in the rear
R 2+0 block
same thing as above on droop
-2 camber
5mm of ride height
Jaco Plaid front, purple rear (2.28 preferred size)
100 tooth spur
Batteries forward
Losi Alfa with wing mounted center
Front
70wt
#2 pistons
yellow springs
rear tower on the front on the inside hole
inner hole on the arm
losi 4 degree hubs
losi knuckles
f+0 block
-2 camber
zero tow in
camber link short and high
3mm of down travel
5mm of ride height
rear
50wt
#2 pistons
out on the tower and arm
Purple Springs
camber on the tower high and inside
losi 1/2 degree hubs (not flipped) with camber on the inside hole
hubs spaced in the middle
front block in the rear
R 2+0 block
same thing as above on droop
-2 camber
5mm of ride height
Jaco Plaid front, purple rear (2.28 preferred size)
100 tooth spur
Batteries forward
Losi Alfa with wing mounted center