stiltskin

iTrader: (103)

Thanks Prez. T8 it is.

Tekin Prez

Are you using a Rspro in 1/8 just because you already have it? It does get the job done and is very small for installs.

stiltskin

iTrader: (103)

Yes. I'm trying to do a conversion on a budget and I've already got 5 RS/RS Pro combos in other cars so I'll just start with one of those. If I like it, I'll do the rx8 and make it more permanent.

Tekin Prez

The Rspro really does work fine as long as you have the right cap and a seperate BEC unit. It is actually rated to higher current than the Rx8 on paper due to the 48 fets on 2 circuit boards, but the Rx8 handles more constant current due to teh very effective heatsink and fan. The Rx8 also does not need a large external cap or the seperate BEC unit.

Secure it well including the large cap and make sure all the solder joints are nice and clean. Not a lot of flopping wire and not to tight either. Good installs make for better race days

stiltskin

iTrader: (103)

Any recommendation on a BEC unit?

2056dennis

iTrader: (134)

Im going to be running a trinity 5.5 with rs pro on a asphalt track with a 175' straight and some small turns , im wondering what type of setup on speedo and where to start gearing thanks (rubber tire and a 5000 40c lipo ) and im running a tc5r

Gouldzilla

Jim
a little of topic but i was able to run a tekin 13.5 up to 250 drgrees last week and it still runs like new. not on purpose, i tightened the slipper and the temp shot up 100 degrees and ran 5 to 10 mins longer than normal. the 17.5 i am running is about just as fast as the other locals running 17.5s in the 2wd.

Gould

REVO-Beat-U

iTrader: (32)

I am getting conflicting reports from local racers about the new RX8 and T8 combo's. I think the confusion is based more around the motor than the ESC. I have a new RC8E that I am going to purchase an RX8 and T8 for. I was looking at the 2050Kv motor for this buggy. What I am being told from the guys racing these right now is, the 1900Kv motor is a better choice for a buggy because it turns higher RPM's where the 2050Kv motor has more low end grunt and is not quite as fast on top end as the 1900Kv. Any truth to those statements? I am looking for a motor that has more power and speed than I really need, so I can tune it down when need be and on fast tracks I have some extra power and speed in reserve that I can release when it is required. I guess I am looking for recommendations on which new T8 motor is going to be best for me, and some insight as to what each motors strengths and weaknesses are, thanks.

Tekin Prez

The motors are very close in power overall. The 2050 is a 2.5 turn delta wind and the 1900 is a 1.5 turn Y wind. Engineering says there is a 1.7 difference between the delta and Y winds, So a 1.5Y x 1.7 = 2.5 turn delta.

When geared for differences in kv they perform pretty close. The 1900 does seem a little smoother on the bottom due to the Y wind and the 2050 is more grunty due to the Delta wind. They both rip the wheels and can pull enough gear to get the top speed. In general we run the 1900 on smaller tracks and the 2050 on larger tracks. The 1900 is also a good setup on 5s when geared back to the same speed.

Tekin Prez

REVO-Beat-U

iTrader: (32)

Thank you sir. From that explanation I believe I will stick with what I was planning on doing, running the 2050Kv motor. If I get on a smaller, tighter track I can tune it down a bit, but when I get out on the wide open big tracks I will have plenty of power and speed. Our area has both smaller and huge tracks and I cant see spending $150+ a pop for several motors to match them all.

So whats the deal with two weeks before any of these get out to the distributors? Kick those guys in production in the rear and mandate 16 hour work days until they catch up with demand!

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

Ha,

Don't temp him! LOL The team is already husting and putting in extra time. We want everyone to experience these wonderful products...

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

I agree....If Kathy Lee can get those kids in the sweat shops to pump out all those socks then they can get these motors out

Billetboy

iTrader: (49)

I am currently running a Redline 13.5/RS Pro in a T4. The track I run at is a small technical track with very short approaches to a number a big jumps. Right now, if you dont drive a couple sections perfect, you are forced to roll the double doubles because you wont get enough launch to clear them. My motor comes off after 10 minutes around 120-135 and the Pro has 2 LEDS.

Motor is at 20 degrees, hotwire is in "sensored only" with 20 boost.

My Question: I want to know if I can go to a 13.5mm or 14mm rotor to help pull the jumps, if so, which one do you recommend? Also, do you know roughly how much RPM I will lose going to these rotor options? Do the larger rotors generate more heat?

Thanks in advance,
David

miller tyme

iTrader: (5)

My experience on carpet is that the larger rotors do generate more heat. One thought would be to drop down to 10 on the motor and up to 30 on the Boost. Could even try down to 0 on the motor, 30 on boost and maybe work up a tooth or 2. Bottom line is that lower motor timing tends to yield more grunt and with the same total timing through the ESC top speed is maintained or even increased.

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

David,

You can go to a 13mm rotor but it will no longer be ROAR legal. It does work quite well and offers a bit more torque.

If you're having problems clearing jumps though you should take a look at your gearing for your setup.

If you're on a tight technical track your timing is a bit on the high side. Try dropping down to 15 on the motor.