3 racing new F1
#2791
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
high
mine too, ran last night , you couldnt make the rear step out if you tried (and i tried!!) the car was very stable. quick lap was less than a 10th slower than my Tq 104 time. I didnt run the FGX in the main because i could quite get the steering comfortable and it was pushing a little bit. after the races were over i went to 0toe(was at 1*toe in) and soft front springs, and then cracked off a handfull of 11 second passes with the best of 11.68! my quickest time in my 104 was 11.83. I think the car has more in it, the 0571's jsut have too much grip and the F3 softs are not quite enough so i am just dialing more steering in with setup a little at a time. Car is coming around!
mine too, ran last night , you couldnt make the rear step out if you tried (and i tried!!) the car was very stable. quick lap was less than a 10th slower than my Tq 104 time. I didnt run the FGX in the main because i could quite get the steering comfortable and it was pushing a little bit. after the races were over i went to 0toe(was at 1*toe in) and soft front springs, and then cracked off a handfull of 11 second passes with the best of 11.68! my quickest time in my 104 was 11.83. I think the car has more in it, the 0571's jsut have too much grip and the F3 softs are not quite enough so i am just dialing more steering in with setup a little at a time. Car is coming around!
your push sounds like a droop adjustment is needed . might have weight bias more toward the rear ....
#2793
There are just too many differences in our cars to be able to set mine like yours! my chassis is much different and has more flex (which i probably dont need now) but this chassis has less flex than my original and it did take steering away. We have different shocks, cantilevers are mounted different and our track surfaces. The 0571's i could probably make work but id rather have a slight push than have to drive with oversteer. Our track is also much faster than what you guys have, 230'straight! Too much toe out with that much speed makes them dart, 104's will do it too.
currently i am at zero toe,orange springs,1.5mm front droop 2mm rear, #3 rear sway bar, .054 front front and rear ride height are at 5.5mm. 2* of front camber (need more), 5* caster.
Car has been scaled and is within 5 grams on all corners 340+/- 5 rear, 225 front
here are my latest mods:
Car is close just need a few more minor tweaks and some track time. If you think about it i am only about 2' from where i want to be in a lap! Are you running the ball dif?
currently i am at zero toe,orange springs,1.5mm front droop 2mm rear, #3 rear sway bar, .054 front front and rear ride height are at 5.5mm. 2* of front camber (need more), 5* caster.
Car has been scaled and is within 5 grams on all corners 340+/- 5 rear, 225 front
here are my latest mods:
Car is close just need a few more minor tweaks and some track time. If you think about it i am only about 2' from where i want to be in a lap! Are you running the ball dif?
#2796
A little late in the game, but finally got my hands on an FGX. Here's my build experience and review.
During the build process I honestly started to dislike the kit. But after finally finishing the kit, it is beautiful. I guess it is like giving birth, the process is painful, but the result is worth it. Thumbs up 3Racing for making the FGX.
During the build process I honestly started to dislike the kit. But after finally finishing the kit, it is beautiful. I guess it is like giving birth, the process is painful, but the result is worth it. Thumbs up 3Racing for making the FGX.
#2797
Hi guys,
I recently purchased the aluminium rear bulkhead for the fgx and i'm having some issues. The 26T gear rubs up against the aluminium.
*EDIT looks like it isn't made for the Exotek anyway so I won't use it
I recently purchased the aluminium rear bulkhead for the fgx and i'm having some issues. The 26T gear rubs up against the aluminium.
*EDIT looks like it isn't made for the Exotek anyway so I won't use it
Last edited by Luosi; 06-04-2012 at 05:17 AM.
#2798
Tech Adept
Anyone consider running a 3rd spring instead of an anti roll bar?
#2799
3rd spring???
OK, after a good week of R+D with the FGX/IFS i have come to the conclusion that the drivetrain is just not efficient enough to keep with the DD cars on the big track. a few months ago our league did not allow for motor timing so it kept the playing field level but new rules have allowed timing and the DD cars on our 230' straight just have acceleration that i can not keep up with, on the infield the FGX is poetry in motion but on turn exits it just lacks the acceleration and i am about 3 tenths off pace and it gets worse as grip comes up. Top speed is good it just takes the FGX longer to get there. So this morning i sourced and figured out a belt setup to eliminate the outside spur gear but still retain the stock dif/pinion for now. This should free up some of the drivetrain loss and also make the car quiet! parts should arrive Wed and i will still need to modify some of it to fit but its a pretty easy conversion. FDR will be 2.45 but can drop up to 3t smaller if need be. The car handled superb and on an unprepared track it was planted and predictable, i ended up winning with my 104X1 in the main but it was a HANDFULL, very hard to drive but very fast laptimes so i had no choice. My main competition is quick and after a ten minute main we finished less than 2 seconds apart and that was only because he got held up with lap traffic. before that happened we were 3 tenths apart the entire race!
FYI just weighed my 104x1 it is 1112g in race trim, FGX is 1182 with 35g nose weight and 1/2 oz of corner balance!
The tip of the week is anti squat with the stock plastic bulkhead(which i think is better anyway), simply take a stock plastic toe block and a flat surface. sand .5mm (.020") off of the bottom of it to lower the hinge pins. Anything more than .5mm makes the rear dance around too much on entry (asphalt of course) you can get away with more on carpet.
OK, after a good week of R+D with the FGX/IFS i have come to the conclusion that the drivetrain is just not efficient enough to keep with the DD cars on the big track. a few months ago our league did not allow for motor timing so it kept the playing field level but new rules have allowed timing and the DD cars on our 230' straight just have acceleration that i can not keep up with, on the infield the FGX is poetry in motion but on turn exits it just lacks the acceleration and i am about 3 tenths off pace and it gets worse as grip comes up. Top speed is good it just takes the FGX longer to get there. So this morning i sourced and figured out a belt setup to eliminate the outside spur gear but still retain the stock dif/pinion for now. This should free up some of the drivetrain loss and also make the car quiet! parts should arrive Wed and i will still need to modify some of it to fit but its a pretty easy conversion. FDR will be 2.45 but can drop up to 3t smaller if need be. The car handled superb and on an unprepared track it was planted and predictable, i ended up winning with my 104X1 in the main but it was a HANDFULL, very hard to drive but very fast laptimes so i had no choice. My main competition is quick and after a ten minute main we finished less than 2 seconds apart and that was only because he got held up with lap traffic. before that happened we were 3 tenths apart the entire race!
FYI just weighed my 104x1 it is 1112g in race trim, FGX is 1182 with 35g nose weight and 1/2 oz of corner balance!
The tip of the week is anti squat with the stock plastic bulkhead(which i think is better anyway), simply take a stock plastic toe block and a flat surface. sand .5mm (.020") off of the bottom of it to lower the hinge pins. Anything more than .5mm makes the rear dance around too much on entry (asphalt of course) you can get away with more on carpet.
Last edited by MantisWorx; 06-04-2012 at 07:59 AM.
#2800
Tech Adept
yes, a 3rd spring would take the place of a rollbar with much better control in tuning than a rollbar can offer. Here is one on a koeniggsegg agera
Full scale prototype racecars all use 3rd springs front and back instead of rollbars.
I drew what it would look like on your car, hopefully you get the idea and not just more than seeing my bad painting skills
Full scale prototype racecars all use 3rd springs front and back instead of rollbars.
I drew what it would look like on your car, hopefully you get the idea and not just more than seeing my bad painting skills
#2801
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
yes, a 3rd spring would take the place of a rollbar with much better control in tuning than a rollbar can offer. Here is one on a koeniggsegg agera
Full scale prototype racecars all use 3rd springs front and back instead of rollbars.
I drew what it would look like on your car, hopefully you get the idea and not just more than seeing my bad painting skills
Full scale prototype racecars all use 3rd springs front and back instead of rollbars.
I drew what it would look like on your car, hopefully you get the idea and not just more than seeing my bad painting skills
It's pointless to put that in the front.
Front suspension suppose to be hard, so that it reacts quickly to steering input. And the rear tends to be soft to help put the power down, at least this is real f1's setup rule.
#2802
Tech Addict
http://www.f1technical.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1075
Its a aero aid. I doubt that RC F1 has any need for it yet.
Its a aero aid. I doubt that RC F1 has any need for it yet.
Last edited by MatsNorway; 06-04-2012 at 09:19 AM.
#2803
It's doing an opposite job as anti roll bar. It only helps the rear roll, make independent suspension feel more like solid axle. The 3rd spring I more like to cope with rebound damping problem.
It's pointless to put that in the front.
Front suspension suppose to be hard, so that it reacts quickly to steering input. And the rear tends to be soft to help put the power down, at least this is real f1's setup rule.
It's pointless to put that in the front.
Front suspension suppose to be hard, so that it reacts quickly to steering input. And the rear tends to be soft to help put the power down, at least this is real f1's setup rule.
#2804
Tech Adept
It's doing an opposite job as anti roll bar. It only helps the rear roll, make independent suspension feel more like solid axle. The 3rd spring I more like to cope with rebound damping problem.
It's pointless to put that in the front.
Front suspension suppose to be hard, so that it reacts quickly to steering input. And the rear tends to be soft to help put the power down, at least this is real f1's setup rule.
It's pointless to put that in the front.
Front suspension suppose to be hard, so that it reacts quickly to steering input. And the rear tends to be soft to help put the power down, at least this is real f1's setup rule.
Ive never used one in 1/10 but I have ran them in smaller scales and have seen how good they work as a fine tuning aid.
#2805
Hey guys, I finally ran my FGX yesterday for the first time. Box stock w/2000 wt shock oil 10,000wt front. Pit Shimizu Tires, 21.5 motor. ride height 5 mm. It handled good low speed but on top end at the end of the long sweeper it would break loose. After checking out the car I notice that the battery cables were too long and may have been rubbing on the shock shafts and may have affected handling.
How much rear droop should I have? would this affect hi speed handling?
My biggest gripe is rear diff leaking oil. I removed and resealed gasket several times and it still leaks I probably warped the cover. I will shoe go it next time.
How much rear droop should I have? would this affect hi speed handling?
My biggest gripe is rear diff leaking oil. I removed and resealed gasket several times and it still leaks I probably warped the cover. I will shoe go it next time.