DaveW

iTrader: (1)

They work like a travel limiting bumpstop on a full size car shock/strut. Adding them to the front can cause less steering. Adding them to the rear can cause the rear to slide out on throttle coming out of a corner. I dont think i have seen anyone use an external limiter on a TC shock since like 2002? lol

Internal limiters were used before droop screws in the arms became popular. Thank god cause it was a pain using them...

Buckaroo

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, I remember putting those little spacers in my TC3 shocks WAY back when I first assembled it. Somewhere along the way during one of the rebuilds, I did away with them. They were a PITA, to be sure! Thank goodness for droop screws.

I figured that the TC3/4 emulsion shock conversion to bladder used the up travel limiters to prevent from squeezing on the bladder too much. The TC5 shocks don't use external travel limiters, but the VCS2 update to the older shocks makes them basically the same as TC5 shocks. I don't have a TC5 shock body to measure, but I wonder if they're the same size overall as far as internal volume and stroke? That would seem to counterindicate using the external travel limiters on the TC3.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Possible. I havent had a Tc5 to measure and spec out the different parts to know what does and doesnt interchange. I DO know that some people look at the 'indentation' in the bladder to be from the shock shaft hitting it, but its known to stay that way because the pressure on the backside of the bladder isnt relieved because the cap isnt valved.

I know i went though Yokomo bladder caps and AE bladder caps on my Tc3/4, and everytime i came back to a plain ol bleeder cap. The only time i ran unvalved bladder caps and felt it was neccessary was at Snowbirds where the grip was extreme. Everywhere else, the bleeder caps felt the best, and provided the best and most consistent traction.

By no means am i saying dont try them, or it wont work. Everyone likes something different, and trying it IS the only way you will know what works for you. Im just sharing what i ran into over the years with the car...

skylar

im looking for a good lipo battery that will fit in my tc3 but i dont know what will fit? i want at least a 3 cell, what is a good one?

mugenize1

iTrader: (-1)

look on hobbie-wing.com they have good lipos for cheep, 30c 5000mah 3S
just picked up 2 from them for my TC4 SAME SIZE!!!!!!!!

cutsforth693doa

iTrader: (8)

Anyone with TC3 shocks, what O-rings do you use. I was useing Blue MIP but they stopped making them. The Stock orange ones leak bad. Any help would be great. Thanks

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

MIP blue seals were nice. I miss them too. I still use the stock red/orange seals from AE...but i use a Teflon lube when i assemble and make sure my shock shafts are polished (Dremel tool/Mothers metal polish). Rough, scratched, or even virgin new shafts will allow oil into the scratches/pores of the shaft and get by the seals... then will eventually destroy the seals.

If you really wanna try a better seal, but i dunno if you can find them, try General Silicones (GS Racing) 1/10th seals. They work well, and are really durable, but are SLIGHTLY oversized, and will have a tight grip on the shaft.

cutsforth693doa

iTrader: (8)

Thanks Dave. Anyone else got anything or any MIP blue o-rings for sale??

IndyHobbies.com

I bought a used TC3 and one of the things that came loose with it was an Associated "one way differential."

http://aedownloads.com/downloads/instructions/3938.pdf

Anyone use these? Are they helpful? It says that it helps with cornering. I'm running VTA with mine. Thought I'd give it a try but wanted to hear from you old, wise sages first.

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

One-ways are currently not allowed in the national rules for VTA. The rule was implemented due to lack of front brakes, which was creating unintentional accidents.

The one-way allows each front wheel to rotate at different speeds. Running a one-way will give you an increased amount of steering on power, especially entering a corner (at the expense of braking). The disadvantage to running one-ways with rubber tires (like VTA) is that you will need to work on your setup to achieve maximum rear grip, or the car will be very loose. When the majority of TC classes were foam tires, one-ways were more common due to the increased amount of traction.

A more common solution to increase steering with rubber tire TC classes without sacrificing braking is to run a front spool. There are 2 different types of spools, a slipper spool and a solid axle spool.

- A solid axle spool is made from one piece of material which the bevel or pully gear attaches too.

- A slipper spool is similar to a regular diff, except that the diff balls are normally removed and the diff rings are replaced with slipper pads.

Associated does make a solid spool for the TC3/TC4, but I believe it is discontinued. You can make your own spool from a regular diff. There are 2 ways to make a spool. The first is to remove the diff balls and replace the diff rings with an abrasive material (sand paper/card board) and tighten down the diff. The second is to glue both diff halves to each other (plastic outdrives).

I would recommend starting out with a normal front diff on the TC3. I had raced my TC3 with a diff at numerous venues (including R/Car in Indy) with a lot of success. The key to racing a TC3/TC4 with a diff in VTA vs. cars with a spool is to maintain a tight line going into the corner and not loose momentum coming out of the corner.

I should be at R/Car on Sunday if you plan to race. Currently I'm racing a TC4 and usually finish in the top 3 in VTA. Last week a different driver set TQ with a TC4. Since both cars share the same drive line, they are still a great option for classes such as VTA.

Brian Smith.

Gyr0

iTrader: (29)

Hey guys what shock rebuilds are you guys using or whats the trick? I just tried the prt# 6440. And well the whole clicking thing isnt happening. Once I pull the shock tool out all the spacers and orings just come out.

Edit: I have the aluminum threaded shock bodies if that makes a difference.

Bikerbob

iTrader: (11)

Hey IndyRC

what are you running for pinion and spur?

I am going to run a 21.5ss on a XBR with lipo - 69 Camaro on the spec rims and rubber.

So most say run about 4.2 to 4.4 FDR.. but wow.. on this card that is a 1:2 ratio for pion to spur or there about.

That is a BIG pinion.. and I would have to cut out some space on the chassis.

What are you doing if I can ask?

James

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

When I was running a 21.5 motor in VTA, the rule was that max (fastest) FDR allowed was a 4.2. At that time, I was running an 84 spur to a 50 pinion which resulted in 4.2 FDR exactly (84/50 x 2.5 gearbox ratio = 4.2). I should add that I was using 64 pitch gears.

If I recall correctly, if you are running a pinion larger than a 45 then you will have to cut out the chassis brace/webbing directly under the pinion gear. This is the area on the stock tub chassis that sits below the pinion gear when it is mounted in the car. You don't have to remove all of the webbing, just some of the "rib" that is directly under the pinion. You may also have to remove some of the rib to the right. Just remove enough of the rib to allow the largest pinion you plan to run to have good clearance.

It is possible to find smaller spur gears. I've run as small as a 80 tooth spur gear, but didn't like how close the motor was to the drive shaft when I wanted to run a smaller pinion (on tight indoor tracks).

My responses are assuming you are going to be running VTA with the rules set for 21.5 motors. In the US, the current rules for VTA are 25.5 motors with no gearing limit. I switched to a TC4 for VTA (same driveline as a TC3). With the 25.5 I'm currently running (82/53 x 2.5 = 3.86 FDR).

Hope this info helps. Let everyone know what rules/class you are running and we might be able to help with other setup issues.

Bikerbob

iTrader: (11)

I think most of the VTA rules are in effect, we are running with 21.5t.

I was thinking of going 48p and then using a 33/55 from RR. this will give me 4.17.

James

THEBIGBULL

iTrader: (5)

I installed a 66 tooth 1/12 spur,with the larger pinion and smaller spur the motor lines almost in the original position, no chassis grinding, do grinding on the tear drop. I'ved used it on asphalt and carpet and have had no reliability issues.