rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

I just plowed through the first 67 pages of this thread and it's just amazing...

... the drama!!!

... the confusion!!!

... the questions!!!

I'll have to read through the rest of this later...

Kyosho seems to be squeezing all of the mileage it can out of this puppy and these incremental changes seem to make sense, but... is anyone actually faster in this car than their previous RRR? If so, exactly what is making the difference around the track?

YmeBP

iTrader: (32)

The irony here is that i have an evo wc and an evo 2 wc and i found that i'm not good enough to handle all the steering i have in the evo2! I am much more consistent with the older car BUT a buddy of mine is about 1 second/lap faster with the new car than with the older car.

Keanas

Has anyone had any trouble with the rear diff joint not being straight? (r/h side).

built a 2nd diff and its not straight either

Any ideas???

amyana3RWC

ok tq

MikaR

+1

racer301

iTrader: (18)

you know expert drivers drills a bigger whole into it to make the weight lighter? the whole point is to make the clutch hit hard on a high bite track...

and vise versa

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

I had a chance to go through the rest of the thread today and I'm wondering, for those of us that have the original RRR WC, what the Evo2 will do for us in terms of the performance on the track.

Hands down, the Evolva shocks are an improvement and that came with the Evo. That's a definite upgrade.

The chassis changes seem to be another improvement - which the skilled owner can do himself with a dremel. But, is it possible to just work on the setup and get the same results? Are the chassis changes just a crutch for someone that isn't quite up to the nuances of setup changes? BTW... Does anyone know if you can just buy a Evo2 chassis and just drop the original parts on it??

We can't just drop on the top deck of course - that requires just too many parts.

Zero offset wheels - Some of us switched over to zero offset years ago.

And the clutch parts and spur gears... hmmm... I think you fall in either one of two situations:

(1) Your lap times are super consistent and you need to shave off a few tenths of a second.

(2) Your lap times are not very consistent so what's a few tenths of a second anyway.

So I'm thinking the original RRR WC (with Evolva shocks and maybe the chassis changes) is still good to go for the average club racer until his lap times are consistent, but that's just my opinion of course. What this also means is that a used original RRR WC is still a good buy for anyone.

Anyone else have any thoughts on this?

BTW.. I own and two fully track ready original RRR WCs, each with various types of upgrades

YmeBP

iTrader: (32)

So far I've found the difference in the two cars being the amount of steering they have. The evo2 has quite a bit more steering both on and off power no matter how crappy your setup is than the evo1 wc.

I've run them both back to back on the same track.

Joe Maxey

iTrader: (14)

Does anyone have the part # for the rear stabilizer? I just need the blades not the hole thing.

Thanks for the info,
Joe

Maddin21

VZW-204-01 (blades only)

--- MARTIN ---

jiggamacdaddy

anyone got the part number for the evo2 chassis.

racer301

iTrader: (18)

its VZ252

they are the same. the evo 2 chasis is just a bit narrower.I don't see any difference other then that.. basically it is the same as other v one rrr

TIX

iTrader: (17)

what is the part number for the next softer rear springs than the ones that come stock with the evo 2 wce

jca2000au

iTrader: (9)

Front Light Blue VZ242-4516 (soft)
Front Med Blue VZ242-4517 (medium, stock)
Front Dark Blue VZ242-4518 (hard)
Rear Light Blue VZ243-4516 (soft)
Rear Med Blue VZ243-5017 (medium, stock)
Rear Dark Blue VZ243-5518 (hard)

TIX

iTrader: (17)

cheers