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Old 06-15-2020, 08:15 PM
  #46  
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DiSilva that"s funny I say the same thing about TC. Our GT12 program that we race in Florida is growing all the time.More racers have come back to on-road racing because of this class. One of our lastest drivers gave up on his TC car and is enjoying our GT12 class.These cars are very competitive and close racing.
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Old 06-16-2020, 11:34 AM
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GT12 certainly would be a decent class for me to evaluate for onroad when I decide to get back into it (Im running a stadium truck right now). If WGT hadn't regulated itself out of existence you could see a nice collab between that and GT12 for GT events and maybe partnerships with the Blancpain GT World Challenge series or something.
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Old 06-16-2020, 12:42 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by BullFrog
DiSilva that"s funny I say the same thing about TC. Our GT12 program that we race in Florida is growing all the time.More racers have come back to on-road racing because of this class. One of our lastest drivers gave up on his TC car and is enjoying our GT12 class.These cars are very competitive and close racing.
Too bad you guys can't mount those bodies competitively

I'm glad the class is working out for you guys. Anytime you can get 5-12 guys to run something that's great! I bet at your track you have double or triple the amount of TC's versus pancar though Touring car is Very Very competitive, ultra close & very fast racing to say the least. I feel that's why TC has and will continue to take over in general, any track across North America will have TC booming with entries vs anything else. Sadly locally you have to beg and convince pan car guys to get together to run a single main and hope there will be enough for a b main. Seems like it can never be locked down. (Cars are too slow, no we need more motor, less motor, hand out motor open fdr, fixed fdr with hand out, New class of pancar all together.. etc etc)




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Old 06-16-2020, 01:38 PM
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This is the use case we were trying to solve for get a used or new pan car, use most of the electronics you already have and burn some foam.
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Old 06-16-2020, 08:06 PM
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I hate to to burst your bubble but either F1 or GT12 both pan cars usually are the largest classes we race in Florida. what you see is the GT spec cars not our- we know how to mount bodies.It's the national organization ROAR that does not promote several classes at their Nationals(GT12 and WGT-R). We don't have any of the problems you mentioned here in Florida. TC is not the answer - pan cars are way easier to work on and drive. GT12 has brought 12 scale back to our races and growing at each race.





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Old 06-16-2020, 08:29 PM
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Bullfrog nailed it. F1 is not ROAR sanctioned under the current set of rules. GT12 in any form is not an official class under ROAR. WGT and WGT-R were never sanctioned. All have been run at large events over the last 10 years. Some are alive and kicking and some are dead. So, if you can get a couple heats, have fun. Sedan... VTA, USGT, 25.5, 21.5, 17.5, 13.5, 10.5, Mod, is not the answer. The perception of speed is just how hard you have to work to make a sedan fast. Then someone sets down an open Pro 10. Now you can experience real speed.
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Old 06-16-2020, 10:00 PM
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I agree TC is way more expensive and a lot more work. These days I work too much to get around to wrenching on the TCs what I like about our GT spec is its just as fast as stock TC and easier to drive and work on.
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Old 06-22-2020, 01:53 PM
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Should be interesting
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Old 06-22-2020, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by BullFrog
We have been running GT12 here in Florida for 5 years. The last two years we have been running in both the Snowbirds and the old running state series in the country FSEARA. We run 21.5- 1 cell spec WGT tires and GT bodies. Now out of the blue we now and a new split in the class . This does nothing but dilute and destroy a class. They even copied our facebook name and and spec. We have brought back many old drivers back to racing here in Florida. Yesterday we have a new chassis compete in our class (Serpent). We run 6 minutes with no problem. tire wear on black carpet no problem- outdoors different story. when the rubber tires come out for outdoors we'll see. The rubber indoors works but have seen any available.When you have to complain about the 1 cell esc cost really? The Florida group is know as GT12 racing USA.
yes, sir never had any problems controlling my 21.5.
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Old 06-23-2020, 05:03 AM
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Where we have been testing the SJT rubber tires with a spec 17.5 (2.2kv) I am going to be testing them with a USGT spec 21.5 (1.9kv) motor this coming weekend. I have told the guys at the track that the current motor is fine but a little less power would probably be better for less skilled racers. It would also come closer to other area's rule sets. So far I have almost 20 runs on the tires with about .2mm of wear on the fronts. I can't determine if the rears have worn at all. One racer at our track (SG1 of TSR, and he is top level) has many more runs than I do. His comment is, I would have gone through 10+ sets of foams by now. I will let you know he only runs a set of foams about 2 to 3 runs because they are trued so small to start.
Just keeping you guys up to date on the testing.
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Old 06-23-2020, 05:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Billy Kelly

Should be interesting
Bill, what we have found. Kill some steering with less caster and set the camber at about 1.5 to1.75 for even front wear. Also soften the car up a little mainly in the rear. If you just bolt them on the car will probably be too aggressive and a little hard to drive. That was the consensus at The Gate. Disclaimer " your experience may be different, please see your setup doctor before starting racing on SJT rubber tires". Lol
Have fun
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Old 06-23-2020, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by old_dude
Bill, what we have found. Kill some steering with less caster and set the camber at about 1.5 to1.75 for even front wear. Also soften the car up a little mainly in the rear. If you just bolt them on the car will probably be too aggressive and a little hard to drive. That was the consensus at The Gate. Disclaimer " your experience may be different, please see your setup doctor before starting racing on SJT rubber tires". Lol
Have fun
I’ll be honest. I don’t have the ability to do setup changes. Since most of the vehicles I race I bough used. I adapt to driving them as they are. With most I’ll only change pinion/spur gear. Or shock adjustment. I’m pretty much on my own with 1/12 at the moment. There very few running them in my area. Unfortunately the weather for the weekend doesn’t look good as of now. At worst, I’ll be try carpet first.
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Old 06-24-2020, 05:46 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Billy Kelly
I’ll be honest. I don’t have the ability to do setup changes. Since most of the vehicles I race I bough used. I adapt to driving them as they are. With most I’ll only change pinion/spur gear. Or shock adjustment. I’m pretty much on my own with 1/12 at the moment. There very few running them in my area. Unfortunately the weather for the weekend doesn’t look good as of now. At worst, I’ll be try carpet first.
I will let you have this info for starting point. .45mm or .018" front and rear side springs. %k damper tube lube. A CRC white center spring (or equivalent). 0 degree front reactive uprights with one shim in back for caster setting. 1.5 to 1.75 degrees of camber and 1 degree of toe out. That is what I have on my CRC car. Other trick is not to have too much motor to start or kill it off with esc settings. I found that I turned much faster laps with the esc turned down to smooth out the power delivery when using a 17.5 "spec" motor. That is why we are testing a 21.5 this weekend. If you have any specific questions on the setup, just shoot me a PM.
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Old 06-24-2020, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by old_dude
I will let you have this info for starting point. .45mm or .018" front and rear side springs. %k damper tube lube. A CRC white center spring (or equivalent). 0 degree front reactive uprights with one shim in back for caster setting. 1.5 to 1.75 degrees of camber and 1 degree of toe out. That is what I have on my CRC car. Other trick is not to have too much motor to start or kill it off with esc settings. I found that I turned much faster laps with the esc turned down to smooth out the power delivery when using a 17.5 "spec" motor. That is why we are testing a 21.5 this weekend. If you have any specific questions on the setup, just shoot me a PM.
I can appreciate the info. But like I mentioned. I have no understanding of most of that information. I’ve never tried or even know how to caster settings. With any of my road cars. I’ve not crossed into the tuning side set. Or found the need to. Most of my cars have come setup in ways I like. So I don’t dare mess with them. I’d only make them worse.
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Old 06-26-2020, 05:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Billy Kelly
I can appreciate the info. But like I mentioned. I have no understanding of most of that information. I’ve never tried or even know how to caster settings. With any of my road cars. I’ve not crossed into the tuning side set. Or found the need to. Most of my cars have come setup in ways I like. So I don’t dare mess with them. I’d only make them worse.
You are missing a lot. Learning what things do in setup is half of the fun. It is the technical side and with a good mentor you can learn a lot. Even things that help you outside of racing. You are never too old to learn, heck I turn 69 next week. I know that I personally have worked with quite a few racers. Working on their cars or showing them how to change things and what that does. If you race it is a necessity to move forward.
I am not criticizing but just offering advice. Hudy has a great informational guide that comes with their setup stations. If you can find one of those without getting the station I think you would find it helpful.
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