tiger266

ohh ok thanks. so its one set of 15t, 16t and 17t in the wc kit.

NiMo

Found a place to get the Kawahara parts for the RRR
http://www.rakuten.co.jp/rc-rainbow/...589761/#626115
But I cant see how to order from them (it's all Japanese)

jeffreylin

hi joe are you sure the 7075 chassis is made of the same material as the stock chassis? i just got mine today in the mail and while i didn't put it on the car yet it does seem a lot stiffer than the stock chassis.

jeffreylin

no it's 16T for first and 21T for second in the kit. 15T & 17T are optional ones that you purchase separately.

jeffreylin

NiMo, you can order the Kawahara parts from Pro Shop Futaba or RC Champ too.

tiger266

heya,

does the dogbone/universal swing shaft break easily?

does the app02-02 brake pad improve the braking by alot?

anyway how many times did u have to replace the belts? duration and amt.

and also erm beside the usual hubs, arms, shock towers, and rear diff joint. what else do u recommend to get to keep as spares or to improve the WC further. Do u recommend getting extra aluminium brake lever?

sorry that i am asking a lot of questions, but hey this is the forum and u guys are helpful form what i can see , anyway this is my first car and i am ordering from overseas (much more cheaper to order all at once) so i am just getting the spares together with the WC kit.

jeffreylin

does the dogbone/universal swing shaft break easily?

no but wears out over time maybe a gallon or 2.

does the app02-02 brake pad improve the braking by alot?

that's what i hear

anyway how many times did u have to replace the belts? duration and amt.

probably replace every gallon or two

and also erm beside the usual hubs, arms, shock towers, and rear diff joint. what else do u recommend to get to keep as spares or to improve the WC further. Do u recommend getting extra aluminium brake lever?

yes on the brake lever

tiger266

Thanks alot jeff..

Tiger

silverM3

iTrader: (1)

I know 3 Racing makes them

AndyT ©

You can greatly reduce wear on the dogbones by applying a small amount of black grease (ala teh Team Associated one) to the ends of them when you fit them.
You`ll find this really helps in reducing "notching" as well.
Cheers

jeffreylin

Thanks Andy. It does help quite a bit. Nevertheless, mine still needs replacing on a regular basis. I do run my car quite a bit though. I would go through 1/2- a full gallon every race between practice, qualifying, and the long main (often 30-40 minutes).

khyber

I am in the midst of building my V1RRR then I stumble on this thrust bearing installation. Does anyone know whether there is orientation to the thrust bearing since both surface are in different shape. Which side is facing engine ?? Pls help

rcrossco_1

Doesnt matter.
Just make sure that you get the 4.8mm plate on the outside, and the 5mm one on the inside nearest the engine.
The metal cage is just to hold the balls in place and nothing else.

rcrossco_1

Ive got a question for you guys.
When mounting the rear roll bar, did you use the plastic washer things that had a peg shape on the bottom?
Ive used mine, but they dont seem to be 100% flat when holding in the 2mm roll bar.
Just wondered what the purpose of them was. Maybe the small peg on the bottom is meant to only just touch the roll bar with the smallest possible surface contact?

God knows.

Rossco

Joehwee

iTrader: (3)

Jeff: I was told the material are the same, you may find it stiffer becos there are no cutout for the batt.