Originally Posted by MrHistory

I finished my build and have a clutch question:

i assembled the clutch on an older Novarossi motor (m12?) from an older mugen kit. using all of the supplied washers, etc, there is a ton of end play. is the shaft on this older motor longer than a current .21 design? how long is the crankshaft on new motors?

thanks

Originally Posted by mick8488

Hi guys,
I have a similiar problem to Jason. The endplay on my clutch is way loose as well, like at least 0.5mm. I'm not sure how long I've been running it this way for but I just installed a new nova with a 11.5 crank in it and same problem. My previous engine, just prior to blowing up (cause yet to be determined) saw the clutch nut let go completely before I retightened it and I'm worried if the same might happen here because of all that endplay. Any thoughts? Is this setup still raceable?
Cheers,
Mick

Originally Posted by Merrillizer

Put some more shims under the big clutch bearing until you have minimal endplay with no binding.

It will work with the endplay so long as your clutch gap is set right, but it will tear up your thrust bearing.

Originally Posted by quietstorm76

Dru ygpm

Originally Posted by Dru Garcia

Yes! and a sweet ride it is.
This weekend was our first time out with the car and it happened to be at Homestead..

I had lots of bad luck this weekend and therefore still didn't get a chance to reaalllllly drive the car. I can tell you this though, it can withstand abuse.

I had two really bad crashes and the car sustained minor damage. And both happened after I finally got the car setup right.

The first one I was rear ended by an 8th scale at the end of the straight away into the sweeper both of us going full throttle. The 8th scale driver made a bad judgment call and hit me without braking. All that broke from the car was the shock rods in the rear (nothing happened to the shock tower or any of the aluminum.) He also made the front knuckle pop off when he pinned the car against the wall from the impact. The knuckle didn't break and nothing else broke. The 8th scale also broke...good for him!!
This was the result from the impact of an 8th scale going down a 280 foot straightaway.
Not bad!!!

Second was right before the start of my main. I was in my first warm up lap and the battery shorted out as I went into the straightaway. The car took off at full speed for the whole 280 feet into the wall. This time my wide bumper saved the car. The bumper broke and the rear upper arm, and the knuckle popped off again (the same old one I may add.) That was it.... amazing. If this doesn't prove how durable the car is, then I don't know what will.

The battery shorted out because I forced it in when I upgraded to the brass battery tray. I did this right before my race and rushed it. I paid the price for that stupid move!

I did see the front universal being an issue for a driver and I'm not sure if that is going to be addressed any time soon. I do know for sure that the front wide bumper is a must for this car.

One more thing- my main problem was the fact that the hinge pin for the rear upper arm was a very tight fit. This is not an issue for many cars, but in the V10, we use set screws to secure it as this is our roll center adjustments as well. If that hinge pin does not go in freely and the arm does not move freely after you secure the set screws, then it will not matter what adjustments you make on the car, your rear will not function right as the whole suspension is out of the game. To make matters worse, if you didn't set your camber adjustment screw center into the upper arm, then when you give yourself more camber you will force the screw into the plastic and pin the hinge pin against the plastic. That too will freeze your rear suspension. I had both of those issues. I learned a big lesson this weekend and hopefully this post will prevent some of you from going down that road.

Originally Posted by blis

We've had to add a little "magic" of ours to the V10 to resolve the floppy side belt.

Attachment 809091
Attachment 809092
Attachment 809093
Attachment 809094

Part is readily available...

http://www.rcmanufactory.com/prodimg/502266-1.jpg

Also removed the circuit from Lipo battery and installed a LiFe just in case.

h

Originally Posted by mick8488

Thanks guys,

I put three hobao 5x8 shims behind the big clutch bearing and that seemed to do it. I now only have a tick of play, and eyeballing it, it appears well within the 0.05 to 0.15 stated in the manual. Now to run in my engine....

Originally Posted by mick8488

Guys, just as an FYI (but most of you probably know), don't put three 5x8 shims behind the big clutch bearing. To cut a long story short, with all those shims in there, the clutch bell could not grab the plate and engage, so the engine spun like crazy with the car going nowhere. Take it as a word of warning anyway..

Best thing to do is to leave in the amount of shims recommended by the manual or try and achieve a balance behind minimal endplay and clutch engagement. I think most V10 drivers have probably got it sorted though.

Cheers,

Originally Posted by SebO

400002 is this a new version of the velox v10 eleven?

Originally Posted by SebO

400002 is this a new version of the velox v10 eleven?