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Old 09-03-2008, 06:57 PM
  #1441  
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New engines are very tight, you wanna heat the engine before you start it up with a heat gun or hair dryer, and/or loosen the plug before starting, and/or put in another head shim. Heating the engine before you start it is the best way, less strain on the conrod.
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Old 09-04-2008, 03:41 AM
  #1442  
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sounds like its stuck at TDC no amount of cranking will unstick it, you will have to manually force it back by levering the flywheel with a screwdriver brutal i know but thats the way, once its free make sure the piston is near the BDC then heat up the engine with a hairdrier so its nice and hot then try again, never leave the motor stuck at TDC always bring it back down the liner
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Old 09-04-2008, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by krimsonkid
brand new. now it seems like the starter wheel is losing power??

Most new engines these days have a crazy amount of 'pinch' when new. Heat that engine up with a heat gun or a hair dryer before starting. That'll make the 'pinch' much easier for your starter box to spin through. It'll be a lot easier on the connecting rod too. When you preheat the engine the sleeve expands to near running dimentions.


Heat the head and the upper portion of the crankcase until you get a 200 degree reading at the glow plug. You can also rotate the flywheel backwards by hand until it stops. This will give your starter box a 'running start' when spinning the new engine over for the first time.

When heating the engine with a heat gun be carefull not to melt plastic parts on the car---epecialy the body!!!


Edit:

D'Oh!!! Why didn't I see that two other guys had already said the same thing????
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Old 09-04-2008, 08:01 PM
  #1444  
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Use a hair dryer dont have to worry about melting parts, the ole dryer will get it hot enough!!!
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Old 09-08-2008, 05:56 AM
  #1445  
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Will the 38T crown gear work with the 13T bevel gear for the front diff?
I've read somewhre on this thread that someone preffered it than the 11T bevel because it meshed better.
Also will it work, performance wise?
I know that some use the 38/11 on the rear but the ratio is closer to 43/13 than the 38/13.
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Old 09-08-2008, 07:45 AM
  #1446  
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Sorry, I'm being a little lazy and don't want to read through 50 pages

Can I get some information on the BCE chassis, does it really help the 5R that much, if so how? I'm only club racing and just bought a 5R, does anyone have a chassis for sale by chance?

Thank you!
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Old 09-09-2008, 09:28 AM
  #1447  
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Thanks guys got her up and running. What is everyone doing with the exposed ball joints around the wheels, are boots available?
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Old 09-21-2008, 10:00 PM
  #1448  
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Life in the old dog yet 3rd place at the worlds running with the new MBX6 shocks and towers
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Old 09-21-2008, 10:22 PM
  #1449  
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Im pretty sure he was running a 6 i just looked at the pics and the tank is diffirent as well as the radio tray
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Old 09-22-2008, 01:00 AM
  #1450  
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Originally Posted by OBMIT
Im pretty sure he was running a 6 i just looked at the pics and the tank is diffirent as well as the radio tray

where did you see the pics
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Old 09-22-2008, 02:38 PM
  #1451  
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Originally Posted by Cannondale1974
Sorry, I'm being a little lazy and don't want to read through 50 pages

Can I get some information on the BCE chassis, does it really help the 5R that much, if so how? I'm only club racing and just bought a 5R, does anyone have a chassis for sale by chance?

Thank you!
the bce chassis is about 5mm longer and moves everything forward from the rear gearbox. due to this addition in length you must use these cvd parts: Losi A3528 & losi A3514 http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/12306 http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/7711

I personally felt the BCE chassis gave the car more steering and i have heard that it does not wear as quickly in the rear like the stock 5R chassis.
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Old 09-25-2008, 06:07 AM
  #1452  
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Originally Posted by slow coach
where did you see the pics
Hi there here it is its a bit muddy though.

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Old 09-28-2008, 08:03 PM
  #1453  
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Default MBX5/5R Prospec Parts

Hey guys,

Cleaning out the race room, and I have a batch of MBX5/5R Propsec parts listed on Ebay. Do a search under Mugen.

Cheers,
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Old 09-28-2008, 10:00 PM
  #1454  
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That car is without a doubt a X6!!! My frien was driving his today and he said the best difference is the acceleration. There will be a Pro spec kit with ti screws and rear alluminum hubs. Box says US version with carbon towers. I was curious as to why I seen some kits with cnc towers. Not to many options to buy here for this car. For $850 car I guarantee the makers of Kyosho will come out with option parts. It never fails!!! Dont know what parts because it also looks pretty complete. Next year will make for some good racing for sure with all the cars out. Funny after all these years Mugen had changed their air filter to a 2 stage. They have been using the same filter since '93(Athlete). Always worked though. Only part I can see carried over from the X5 is the steering slider.
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Old 10-12-2008, 06:08 PM
  #1455  
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Default clutch assembly

looking for just the clutch nut but im interested in a whole new assembly. if any has any suggestions or comments please advise.
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