mikel33

iTrader: (2)

Lloyd, every thread on RC Tech is like this in some form or fashion. Just a bunch of internet cowboys thrashing each other. VTA racing is some of the best racing you will find. I have raced VTA at tracks in Ohio, Wisconsin, Illinois, Tennessee, and Indiana. Trust me, its all good. You're missing out if you don't take you vta car with you to other tracks.

GP40X

iTrader: (10)

Much Much MUCH BIGGER

More information coming soon so stay tuned.

DARKSIDE

iTrader: (2)

its pretty BIG...VTA BIG!!!!

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

Thanks to those who gave good information on traction rolling. How much does shock oil (weight) have an affect on traction rolling? If you like everything else on a setup, can oil or piston changes help?

Kevin K

iTrader: (32)

Its another tuning aid and can be misused if not fully understood....general rule of thumb is stick with what you know works on your base setup...most times thats 30 to 40wt oil. When you go stiffer(heavier) oil you might need to go up in spring rate as well. Smaller pistons holes or less holes has the same feel as stiffer oil. If you go too heavy on the oil the car is unresponsive and it might still traction roll if other things on the setup are not changed. Thats why I didnt talk about it too much there are more things to change that have a quicker effect than shock oil. The best advice I can give is when ever your car starts to feel a little off just rebuild your shocks and 9 times outa 10 that solves most problems. Alot of times guys over look their shocks and leave the oil in there for months at a time when really it should be changed about every 2 race days.

If you have anymore questions feel free to ask everyone will do their best to help.

robk

iTrader: (22)

As far as the reason to glue sidewalls, you can generally glue up the tires and not change your car a ton. If the first thing you do is change all the camber links and shock oil, your car is going to be much different to drive. Now you may have different problems.

Beyond the glue, the way to think of preventing traction rolling is to keep the car rolling within the limits of its suspension. If you watch a car that snap rolls of the track, it's like a door hinge. The car immediately transfers so much weight so fast it just lifts the wheels. If the car can roll more in the confines of the suspension, and does it in a slower fashion, it won't start lifting the tires.

WD40

iTrader: (8)

I will work on trying to get off for work, but it isn't looking favorable. Thanks for the offer Pete, but I don't want you to have to listen to me for a whole week! haha

wwddww34

iTrader: (9)

It's bigger than this Caterpillar Truck ...

NutDriver

iTrader: (30)

My apologies for not reading back through the 227 pages in this thread to find the answer to this question. My question is what are the exact differences between a TC3 and a TC4? What parts are interchangable? Thanks for tolerating my laziness.

scott

ercwhtsd

iTrader: (1)

The battery on the 4 was moved closer to the center line, camber links moved to the stiffening wings, different shock towers, different drive line carrier/input shaft(?), different arms,hubs,steering blocks, hinge pin holders. The 3 also had a "slider" steering set up and the 4 is a double bell crank. I am sure I forgot something

I have put TC3 shock towers on a TC4 to play with camber positions as well as putting TC4 Castor blocks on the 3(you have to drill a hole for the set screw to hold the pin in). You can also use all the TC4 suspension on the 3 with little to no modification. The steering knuckles and rear hubs should go on the TC3 with no issue (besides drilling a hole for the set screw in the hub).

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

The inner hinge pins on the TC3 and TC4 (a-arms) are not the same diameter, so they are not a direct fit. The a-arm mounts also are different so they aren't a direct fit either. Bottom line is that many parts may fit on each car, but may require some modification. Also, some Losi XXX-S parts will fit on the TC3 (steering knuckles, caster blocks, rear hub carriers)

All of the drive line parts are interchangeable EXCEPT the spur gear assembly holders. Also the TC4 drive shaft/input cups use smaller roll pins. So if you use a TC3 shaft on a TC4, you will need to use TC3 input cups.

Many people have created their own version of a TC3.5 by using the TC4 shock towers, chassis braces, and steering knuckles (all are a direct fit onto the TC3).

Some aftermarket chassis also had the ability to use a swing steering rack (http://www.xtremercracing.com/Produc...10040&pID=1155).

Bottom line is that I've run a stock TC3, tub TC4, and FTTC4 in VTA and was competitive with all of them. Each car has quirks (TC3 rack gets dirty, tub TC4 is a pain to adjust shims under a-arm mounts, FTTC4 is a pain to replace a spur gear/change pinion & you have to cut an ear off your servo), but all are capable of a podium finish.

Hopefully this info helps.

ercwhtsd

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Brian- I knew you would come through, (fastest tubby in the IL/IN area IMHO).

IndyHobbies.com

I just learned something from you guys, thanks!

Also, to help cross reference, I printed these two lists off a while ago. One is a numerical list of the TC3 parts and then one of the TC4 parts. I used a highlighter to go through them and see which parts worked for both cars. I've attached the PDF versions you can print or save.

Or, you can get other lists with these links:

TC3 List: http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...at_rc10tc3.pdf

TC4 List: Go to this link and push the "Download in EXCEL" button in the upper right corner and you will get an Excel spreadsheet of parts: http://www.teamassociated.com/cars_a...s_accessories/

Now that the TC4 has been re-released, parts for it will be much easier to find I imagine, and available for a while. But, the unique TC3 parts might be something to keep an eye out for at swap meets or ebay.

I would suggest that you print a copy or save the electric file. You never know how long they are going to leave this stuff up on the web.

rtebbe

iTrader: (3)

I have very specific questions for what I would imagine is a very specific group of people.

I am running a stock TC4 Club Racer with the Novak Edge 25.5 motor. What gearing are you running? 48P or 64P? What is the stock spur in the TC4 Club Racer?

I have spoken with others at the track and they suggest a FDR of about 4.00. But I can't for the life of me figure out what the stock spur gear is. It looks like 66, but its so small it is really hard to tell. With that said, I am running the stock spur with a 37 tooth pinion. 37 is about as big as I can go. 39 seems to fit too tight. Based on the above, assuming stock spur is 66, I would need somewhere around a 41-43 tooth spur to hit a FDR of 4.00. Am I missing something?

anr211

iTrader: (11)

The stock spur gear is 72 teeth. I am still running 48p on my club racer, but I have switched to a 60 tooth spur gear. That puts you at a much easier to fit 60 spur and 38 pinion, but I am pretty sure any pinion larger than 35 tooth will need some grinding done to the chassis supports so the gear doesn't rub.