Yokomo MR4TC-BD
#7426
Good day guys, i usually bash and race with my friends on concrete, and so i was trying to get as much ride height as i can from my bd, what i did was instead of placing the pin of the hub carriers on stock position, i placed on the slot closer to the dogbones,
i'm posting because i'd like to ask you guys what particular effects will this give me?
i'm posting because i'd like to ask you guys what particular effects will this give me?
#7429
What other brands, spools will fit a Yok BD ???
I know the Scythe can use a Yok spool.
Any other brands have same dimensions or slight modifications.
I know the Scythe can use a Yok spool.
Any other brands have same dimensions or slight modifications.
#7430
#7432
I for one can say I have absolutely no idea of where to find a RC shop in Barbados... But man how I'd love being there atm instead of working in Belgium
But prolly Speedtechrc would ship to you.
But prolly Speedtechrc would ship to you.
#7436
yokomo blues all around
all possible hb suspension parts
damperposition:
front shocktower: middle between 2nd and 3rd hole
front wishbone: middle between middle and outmost hole
rear shocktower: 2nd outmost hole on old bd shocktower
rear wishbone: middle
frontmoste hole on prototype ackermannplate (equals stock steeringrack with sd-202)
1mm under inner camberlink ballstud all around
1mm under front suspensioblocks 0 under rear blocks
3° toe-in in the rear, SD-300F05 front
I'm not sure what dampers and droop they used so here's what i use atm:
Rayspeed 3*1.2 pistons
400 Muchmore front
350 Muchmore rear
80% rebound
frontdroop 6
reardroop 5
both on hudy blox
remember if u use the plastic gauge provided by yokomo u have to set the droop to 7 if u want a rear droop of 6
Don't ask me why that is but I tested it with hudy blox, an associated gauge and an alloy yokomo
them 3 are correct, the platic one always shows 1mm less so -> want 6? set 7!
all possible hb suspension parts
damperposition:
front shocktower: middle between 2nd and 3rd hole
front wishbone: middle between middle and outmost hole
rear shocktower: 2nd outmost hole on old bd shocktower
rear wishbone: middle
frontmoste hole on prototype ackermannplate (equals stock steeringrack with sd-202)
1mm under inner camberlink ballstud all around
1mm under front suspensioblocks 0 under rear blocks
3° toe-in in the rear, SD-300F05 front
I'm not sure what dampers and droop they used so here's what i use atm:
Rayspeed 3*1.2 pistons
400 Muchmore front
350 Muchmore rear
80% rebound
frontdroop 6
reardroop 5
both on hudy blox
remember if u use the plastic gauge provided by yokomo u have to set the droop to 7 if u want a rear droop of 6
Don't ask me why that is but I tested it with hudy blox, an associated gauge and an alloy yokomo
them 3 are correct, the platic one always shows 1mm less so -> want 6? set 7!
#7438
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
rear diffs
gooday every one i own a yokomo bd but since i have gone too running brushless in it lrp tc spec with a 4.5 in it . it doesnt matter how i do the diffs the rear diff will blow up where the centre comes apart from the pulley i have put 6 new diffs in the back of the car i never had this problem when i was running a brushed mod all i can put it down too is the power of the new motor an batteries now days ..
if any one could help that would be great cheers
if any one could help that would be great cheers
#7439
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
gooday every one i own a yokomo bd but since i have gone too running brushless in it lrp tc spec with a 4.5 in it . it doesnt matter how i do the diffs the rear diff will blow up where the centre comes apart from the pulley i have put 6 new diffs in the back of the car i never had this problem when i was running a brushed mod all i can put it down too is the power of the new motor an batteries now days ..
if any one could help that would be great cheers
if any one could help that would be great cheers
i too had that problem. i was told that the diff was too loose and the heat would melt/fuse the central parts together. this is with a plastic diff. i rebuilt it as per above post and i used tread lock on the nut. on the first run it was it slacken off but i was able to tighen it back. it seems to be holdin up. this is with a mamba max 6900
#7440
with brushless i think diff rebuilds is a very important part of the prep work at a race meet.Instead of sorting out brushed motors you have to spend the time rebuilding diffs and instead of brushes and relevants spares you know have to stock up on diff hears and diff balls etc..