Losi 8ight building and setup
#7831
This weekend I ran my 8ight for the first time. Love this buggy! I did buy it used and had a fuel tank issue. The cap was bad then before the main i found one of the seams had cracked. I swapped the tank with the spare I had and it ran fine. I did buy another spare this week just in case. Is this a on going problem? Has any one tried the aluminum tank from RD logics?
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...ting-seam.html
#7832
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
is it the standard in the 4 shoe clutch to run matching opposite shoes
for example: 2 carbon and 2 aluminum on opposite sides with springs to match
i mean, that's the stock setup.
Would it give a more gradual effect if lets say, you run 4 of the same shoes with 4 different springs: lightest to hardest? or is this a bad idea?
all input/criticism is appreciated.
for example: 2 carbon and 2 aluminum on opposite sides with springs to match
i mean, that's the stock setup.
Would it give a more gradual effect if lets say, you run 4 of the same shoes with 4 different springs: lightest to hardest? or is this a bad idea?
all input/criticism is appreciated.
Id keep the stock 2alum/ 2carbons set up. it works pretty good.
I haven't been to hotrod in a while, but I ran all 4 Losi aluminum shoes, with all gold or all silver springs. Its pretty punchy, but good on a tight high bite track.
you could even try 2 gold and 2 silver springs. Just try and space them evenly apart, so it doesn't put extra stress on your bearings ect. because it isnt balanced.
#7833
Last week I tried the green-plastic and gold-aluminum setup that I've seen posted here a few times now.
I liked it a lot, you have good acceleration but with very little wheel spin. In the corners is were it helped out the most, very easy to keep the power on without spinning out and still good punch for the exit.
Of course it may not be the best for all engine and pipe setups but it works very well for the GRP.
I liked it a lot, you have good acceleration but with very little wheel spin. In the corners is were it helped out the most, very easy to keep the power on without spinning out and still good punch for the exit.
Of course it may not be the best for all engine and pipe setups but it works very well for the GRP.
#7836
Man i cant believe how much a good setup benefits you!!! Problem is i dont have it. . I took my raceroller out of the box and started racing it, ive done pretty good in the sportsman class with a stock setup. Last weekend we had a race at our local track CVR and it was a money race which will bring in a few local pros from Northern Cali. During the race i was taking my lines ok but one of the pros drove on the inside of me on a tight turn while going pretty damn fast. Track conditions were horrible due to the fact our water pump broke down before the race so it was very dry and loose. He was also running a losi buggy. I havent messed with camber or toe so i dont know where to start. It sucks when you know what lines you can take but your car doesnt want to.
#7837
After running my car last week it looks like the Truhe Nitro Challange setup is the one to go with as a base setup. The car was right on with that setup and then with a little help from this forum it seems that the 8ight prefers softer rubber when it comes to tires, going with some M3 I had the car seemed hooked. At least for me the car was just about as good as it could get, after that it came down to driver. I am going to switch over to buggy next season just because this car is great the way it is. This is the first vehicles "8ight and 8ight-T" I have owned that I feel I am the only cause of its poor finish at the end of a race. I have had a lot more fun this year just because of that fact, that and the Slash but that's another story.
#7840
they will put out fifteen thousands of different springs with rates .5 lbs from
each other ,,,,, now mike truhe setup seen to be the most popular setup for starting point , from there only small changes are needed to make this animal
8ight dialed to your home track:tire :
#7841
Clutch shims
Hey guys i need help with shimming my clutch. I used the blue aluminum version for the longest time but switched to the Black steel version recently and i can't get the outer clutch bearing to last more than 20 min. Im using the quick change motor mount so my mesh/alignment hasn't changed and it is good.
current setup is:
motor - washer - collet - steel flywheel - flywheel nut - shim - bearing - clutch bell - bearing - cupped washer and screw.
it has about .5mm end play so it seems to be shimmed correctly.
This is with a GRP Ninja engine so if anyone can help it would be appreciated.
current setup is:
motor - washer - collet - steel flywheel - flywheel nut - shim - bearing - clutch bell - bearing - cupped washer and screw.
it has about .5mm end play so it seems to be shimmed correctly.
This is with a GRP Ninja engine so if anyone can help it would be appreciated.
#7842
Tech Champion
iTrader: (7)
If I were to look at it, I'd start with the engine crankshaft. The area the outer bearing rides on might be excessively worn down causing the bearing to move away and towards the crank. Try measuring this area and compare it to an area on the crank where the bearings don't ride.
#7843
I'm curious what all was changed between the first run 8ight B Pro kits and the now current 8ights?
I can think of the following:
shock orings
wider flywheel
clutch shoes
What else did they change in the kits?
I can think of the following:
shock orings
wider flywheel
clutch shoes
What else did they change in the kits?
#7844
Tech Champion
iTrader: (125)
So far i have found this for changes .
rear hub carriers
front caster blocks
rear transmission case
diff cases
chassis
radio tray
center diff mounts
steering ackerman
front and rear arm
screws that hold the shocks on to the arms
brake disk
F and R shock towers
shock bottoms that hold the springs on
rear hub carriers
front caster blocks
rear transmission case
diff cases
chassis
radio tray
center diff mounts
steering ackerman
front and rear arm
screws that hold the shocks on to the arms
brake disk
F and R shock towers
shock bottoms that hold the springs on
#7845
NM
Last edited by MattP; 09-20-2008 at 12:54 PM.