Comment about the hpi E10 Touring
07-22-2009, 06:57 PM
#16
Any chance of a photo?
I have gone down the exact same path with off-roaders in the past, Its enjoyable buying and bolting on all the aftermarkit items ,but expensive and you never get to the level of competition spec kits.
I have gone down the exact same path with off-roaders in the past, Its enjoyable buying and bolting on all the aftermarkit items ,but expensive and you never get to the level of competition spec kits.
07-22-2009, 07:06 PM
#17
Tech Initiate
Brion Sohn
President
Penguin r/c
07-23-2009, 04:02 AM
#18
seriously... after seeing one in picture i don't understand how could someone actually consider buying a E10. For a stupid and expensive bet, maybe ?
Do yourself a favor and buy something else. Like a real car for instance.
Don't know about the tt01 but I tend to be veeery skeptic with this type of car. I defy anyone with a fully hopped up tt01 to beat a RtR tc3-tc4. Plain IMPOSSIBLE. I would'nt even give one to my kid, I would be too afraid he thinks his dad is LAME.
If you want a shaft car, just buy a used tc4-tc3. Anybody will tell you that.
If you don't care about shaft or belt, then buy a used 415, used cyclone, used xray ,t1, t2, anything but don't waste your money on a E10 (or TT01), these are just bunches of crappy plastic that will only disgust you from the hobby, I promise.
Do yourself a favor and buy something else. Like a real car for instance.
Don't know about the tt01 but I tend to be veeery skeptic with this type of car. I defy anyone with a fully hopped up tt01 to beat a RtR tc3-tc4. Plain IMPOSSIBLE. I would'nt even give one to my kid, I would be too afraid he thinks his dad is LAME.
If you want a shaft car, just buy a used tc4-tc3. Anybody will tell you that.
If you don't care about shaft or belt, then buy a used 415, used cyclone, used xray ,t1, t2, anything but don't waste your money on a E10 (or TT01), these are just bunches of crappy plastic that will only disgust you from the hobby, I promise.
07-23-2009, 04:09 AM
#19
Depends if you think the Hobby is racing or bashing, The non-racer makes up 99.9999 percent of the hobby and race spec cars are near useless for off the track use.
The TT01 is a great car for causal use, simple to build, sturdy, cheap,available with a wide range of bodies and configurations.
It is exactly what I would buy for my son, If he wants an Xray he can get a job and buy one himself.
The TT01 is a great car for causal use, simple to build, sturdy, cheap,available with a wide range of bodies and configurations.
It is exactly what I would buy for my son, If he wants an Xray he can get a job and buy one himself.
07-23-2009, 04:20 AM
#20
what I meant is : the price of a new E10 +2-3 hop-ups is the same as the price of a used xrayT1 with tons of spares.
07-23-2009, 04:30 AM
#21
The way I see it is, buy cheap and expect problems.
You cannot fault the ta05 for the price out of the box, and it has plenty of upgrades, should you get the addiction for some, like I did
I ended up getting the 3racing graphite chassis and shock mounts, trf shocks, complete set of universal driveshafts, a spool, centre one way, lightened centre shaft, alloy wheel hex's and tamiya blue wheel nuts
When you start upgrading any car though, be careful of how heavy replacement parts are. Mine weighed in at 1560gr, quite heavy but still performed quite well
You cannot fault the ta05 for the price out of the box, and it has plenty of upgrades, should you get the addiction for some, like I did
I ended up getting the 3racing graphite chassis and shock mounts, trf shocks, complete set of universal driveshafts, a spool, centre one way, lightened centre shaft, alloy wheel hex's and tamiya blue wheel nuts
When you start upgrading any car though, be careful of how heavy replacement parts are. Mine weighed in at 1560gr, quite heavy but still performed quite well
07-23-2009, 09:15 AM
#24
If and when HPI releases adjustable upper a-arms for the E10, I will try it out in VTA. Until then, I will continue to enjoy it for what it is designed for.
07-23-2009, 10:49 AM
#25
I normally race VTA and have been beaten by a TT-01E that had a tub chassis and minimal upgrades. While the person with the TT-01 is a very good driver, he beat other decent drivers with TC3's and TC5's. While this may be an exception, it is possible.
If and when HPI releases adjustable upper a-arms for the E10, I will try it out in VTA. Until then, I will continue to enjoy it for what it is designed for.
If and when HPI releases adjustable upper a-arms for the E10, I will try it out in VTA. Until then, I will continue to enjoy it for what it is designed for.
You're tempting me to try...
07-23-2009, 12:35 PM
#26
Tech Initiate
I think we are getting a little off of the reason why these cars exist in the first place..
They are Entry Level.. These cars are made and developed for beginning drivers who either want to try out RC and/or do not have the funds to purchase a race level car right off the bat.
The reason why we make upgrades for these cars is so that when the person who buys one of these cars decides they are good enough or wish to enhance the driving of one of these cars they have a way of upgrading it to be as competitive as possible without having to throw away their initial investment.
Granted you could buy a used Race level car for an amount close to the E10 or TT01 with a few upgrades but there are many who would not purchase a used car as they do wear out and you don't know how well it was treated. drivelines and suspension wear out and even a graphite chassis that takes a lot of hits will not be nearly as good as a new one. You don't always know how the car was driven and for someone on a budget they may not wish to take on all the replacements that can be associated with a used car..
An upgraded E10 or TT01 in most cases will not be as competitive as a full race level car but in the hands of a good driver can beat them. Also with rule set-ups like RCGT or Trans-Am where tires are set and minimum weights and motor size are adhered to it actually drops the value of a full race level car as it evens the playing field through traction and power limits.
There is a place for these cars and they are not for everyone but there is a reason why they exist and are popular.
Brion Sohn
President
Penguin r/c
They are Entry Level.. These cars are made and developed for beginning drivers who either want to try out RC and/or do not have the funds to purchase a race level car right off the bat.
The reason why we make upgrades for these cars is so that when the person who buys one of these cars decides they are good enough or wish to enhance the driving of one of these cars they have a way of upgrading it to be as competitive as possible without having to throw away their initial investment.
Granted you could buy a used Race level car for an amount close to the E10 or TT01 with a few upgrades but there are many who would not purchase a used car as they do wear out and you don't know how well it was treated. drivelines and suspension wear out and even a graphite chassis that takes a lot of hits will not be nearly as good as a new one. You don't always know how the car was driven and for someone on a budget they may not wish to take on all the replacements that can be associated with a used car..
An upgraded E10 or TT01 in most cases will not be as competitive as a full race level car but in the hands of a good driver can beat them. Also with rule set-ups like RCGT or Trans-Am where tires are set and minimum weights and motor size are adhered to it actually drops the value of a full race level car as it evens the playing field through traction and power limits.
There is a place for these cars and they are not for everyone but there is a reason why they exist and are popular.
Brion Sohn
President
Penguin r/c
07-23-2009, 01:07 PM
#27
Tech Initiate
I had been a little weary of an e10…I was looking for a cheap out of the box drifter that I could bang around as I learn and not sweat the damage so much…now that I read you folks at penguin or working with it, I’m excited to pick one up.
08-06-2009, 05:52 PM
#28
whats up guys, im a noob here but I just had to reply to this. Im an E10 lover and advocate though up until now I wouldnt recommend people to get the E10 then unless they were willing to pay for the time and stress. Now its a different story as there a lot of option parts available. I have probably spent about $500 - $1000 on my E10 and with no regrets. I have built it to point where I like it. The only thing I need now is for the adjustable arms to be ready for sale in the US market or in ebay. I've made adj. arms for mines with turnbuckles but were snapping em in pieces on heavy hits to the wheels, so I took it off and will wait for the option. Ive also made a lot of custom parts for it and tweaked on it since I got it. I bash it, ran it on course surfaces, Ive competed with it on drift comps and its my fave to drift other than my Pro4 (when I had it). I also love to use it on Body Comps because of the detailed disc & rotors, rear diffusers, and wheel spacers. Yes its an entry kit but it has potential and i love the weight shifts when its drifting and i can use 10mm offsets on it w/o a problem.
What Im basically saying is that I respect everybody's opinion but dont knock on something out of ignorance, frustration, or just cause... its a good kit and i agree with Penguin R/C that its an "entry level" kit... but its a blast when you can beat a pro kit with it.... thanks for your time
What Im basically saying is that I respect everybody's opinion but dont knock on something out of ignorance, frustration, or just cause... its a good kit and i agree with Penguin R/C that its an "entry level" kit... but its a blast when you can beat a pro kit with it.... thanks for your time
05-22-2010, 11:09 AM
#29
I know this thread is about 1 year old. Not sure if anyone still read this.
IMHO, E10 is now very cheap to get, esp if you're getting one with no body. The parts I see that's problematic has pretty much been said, ie, lack of Camber and Suspension is a bit iffy. That can be easily fixed with some cheap alloy parts from Hong Kong. Besides that. Is there any concerns on gearing and power transfer in the drive train department?
I would like some info on gearing? the internal gearing is 7.48:1 and the stock comes with 65T spur and 22T pinion. What is the best combination for a LRP SXX + 11.5T motor?
I do have expensive cars, but my hobby is always make a cheap car drivable and even better when they can beat a TRF or X-Ray on a track. It's always fun to look at the driver's face when you say the overall cost of your car is $300 when they spent thousands on their TRF.
Don't get me wrong, there a place for good cars, but when you're going to encourage more ppl to race, can't tell them don't come until you've got money. That's why I enjoy the challenge of making a cheap chassis fast. RC is always about mechanical grip. Any car can have good mechanical grip is you build it right. You can always make a cheap car drives like a TRF. And you can always make any car drives crap.
IMHO, E10 is now very cheap to get, esp if you're getting one with no body. The parts I see that's problematic has pretty much been said, ie, lack of Camber and Suspension is a bit iffy. That can be easily fixed with some cheap alloy parts from Hong Kong. Besides that. Is there any concerns on gearing and power transfer in the drive train department?
I would like some info on gearing? the internal gearing is 7.48:1 and the stock comes with 65T spur and 22T pinion. What is the best combination for a LRP SXX + 11.5T motor?
I do have expensive cars, but my hobby is always make a cheap car drivable and even better when they can beat a TRF or X-Ray on a track. It's always fun to look at the driver's face when you say the overall cost of your car is $300 when they spent thousands on their TRF.
Don't get me wrong, there a place for good cars, but when you're going to encourage more ppl to race, can't tell them don't come until you've got money. That's why I enjoy the challenge of making a cheap chassis fast. RC is always about mechanical grip. Any car can have good mechanical grip is you build it right. You can always make a cheap car drives like a TRF. And you can always make any car drives crap.
06-28-2010, 04:06 AM
#30
Tech Rookie
I know this thread is about 1 year old. Not sure if anyone still read this.
IMHO, E10 is now very cheap to get, esp if you're getting one with no body. The parts I see that's problematic has pretty much been said, ie, lack of Camber and Suspension is a bit iffy. That can be easily fixed with some cheap alloy parts from Hong Kong. Besides that. Is there any concerns on gearing and power transfer in the drive train department?
I would like some info on gearing? the internal gearing is 7.48:1 and the stock comes with 65T spur and 22T pinion. What is the best combination for a LRP SXX + 11.5T motor?
I do have expensive cars, but my hobby is always make a cheap car drivable and even better when they can beat a TRF or X-Ray on a track. It's always fun to look at the driver's face when you say the overall cost of your car is $300 when they spent thousands on their TRF.
Don't get me wrong, there a place for good cars, but when you're going to encourage more ppl to race, can't tell them don't come until you've got money. That's why I enjoy the challenge of making a cheap chassis fast. RC is always about mechanical grip. Any car can have good mechanical grip is you build it right. You can always make a cheap car drives like a TRF. And you can always make any car drives crap.
IMHO, E10 is now very cheap to get, esp if you're getting one with no body. The parts I see that's problematic has pretty much been said, ie, lack of Camber and Suspension is a bit iffy. That can be easily fixed with some cheap alloy parts from Hong Kong. Besides that. Is there any concerns on gearing and power transfer in the drive train department?
I would like some info on gearing? the internal gearing is 7.48:1 and the stock comes with 65T spur and 22T pinion. What is the best combination for a LRP SXX + 11.5T motor?
I do have expensive cars, but my hobby is always make a cheap car drivable and even better when they can beat a TRF or X-Ray on a track. It's always fun to look at the driver's face when you say the overall cost of your car is $300 when they spent thousands on their TRF.
Don't get me wrong, there a place for good cars, but when you're going to encourage more ppl to race, can't tell them don't come until you've got money. That's why I enjoy the challenge of making a cheap chassis fast. RC is always about mechanical grip. Any car can have good mechanical grip is you build it right. You can always make a cheap car drives like a TRF. And you can always make any car drives crap.