R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-22-2009, 07:57 PM   #16
Tech Addict
 
Metla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 631
Default

Any chance of a photo?

I have gone down the exact same path with off-roaders in the past, Its enjoyable buying and bolting on all the aftermarkit items ,but expensive and you never get to the level of competition spec kits.
Metla is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2009, 08:06 PM   #17
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 36
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Metla View Post
Any chance of a photo?

I have gone down the exact same path with off-roaders in the past, Its enjoyable buying and bolting on all the aftermarkit items ,but expensive and you never get to the level of competition spec kits.
If you are asking for a photo of our Graphite kit.. It is actually still undergoing designing so there is nothing visual yet.

Brion Sohn
President
Penguin r/c
Penguin r/c is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2009, 05:02 AM   #18
Tech Master
 
heretic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: europe
Posts: 1,103
Default

seriously... after seeing one in picture i don't understand how could someone actually consider buying a E10. For a stupid and expensive bet, maybe ?

Do yourself a favor and buy something else. Like a real car for instance.

Don't know about the tt01 but I tend to be veeery skeptic with this type of car. I defy anyone with a fully hopped up tt01 to beat a RtR tc3-tc4. Plain IMPOSSIBLE. I would'nt even give one to my kid, I would be too afraid he thinks his dad is LAME.

If you want a shaft car, just buy a used tc4-tc3. Anybody will tell you that.

If you don't care about shaft or belt, then buy a used 415, used cyclone, used xray ,t1, t2, anything but don't waste your money on a E10 (or TT01), these are just bunches of crappy plastic that will only disgust you from the hobby, I promise.
heretic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2009, 05:09 AM   #19
Tech Addict
 
Metla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 631
Default

Depends if you think the Hobby is racing or bashing, The non-racer makes up 99.9999 percent of the hobby and race spec cars are near useless for off the track use.

The TT01 is a great car for causal use, simple to build, sturdy, cheap,available with a wide range of bodies and configurations.

It is exactly what I would buy for my son, If he wants an Xray he can get a job and buy one himself.
Metla is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2009, 05:20 AM   #20
Tech Master
 
heretic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: europe
Posts: 1,103
Default

what I meant is : the price of a new E10 +2-3 hop-ups is the same as the price of a used xrayT1 with tons of spares.
heretic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2009, 05:30 AM   #21
Tech Champion
 
tc3team's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: UK
Posts: 6,151
Default

The way I see it is, buy cheap and expect problems.

You cannot fault the ta05 for the price out of the box, and it has plenty of upgrades, should you get the addiction for some, like I did

I ended up getting the 3racing graphite chassis and shock mounts, trf shocks, complete set of universal driveshafts, a spool, centre one way, lightened centre shaft, alloy wheel hex's and tamiya blue wheel nuts

When you start upgrading any car though, be careful of how heavy replacement parts are. Mine weighed in at 1560gr, quite heavy but still performed quite well
__________________
Fusion Hobbies / www.horshamrc.org

The wife stops me being sane and the r/c stops me from going insane....
tc3team is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2009, 05:31 AM   #22
Tech Master
 
fly_wheel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: sabah lor
Posts: 1,039
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

somehow i think yokomo SD can be a very very fun bashing car... u can play it on dirty praking lot as the gear box are covered... just don't buy tons of upgrade for it... all those light weight things won't last for bashing...
__________________
There are more in racing than winning.
fly_wheel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2009, 09:34 AM   #23
Tech Champion
 
snoopyrc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Tunnel Hill GA
Posts: 5,046
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by fly_wheel View Post
somehow i think yokomo SD can be a very very fun bashing car... u can play it on dirty praking lot as the gear box are covered... just don't buy tons of upgrade for it... all those light weight things won't last for bashing...
I agree the Yokomo SD touring cars are great for bashing or even slower TC classes. Like VTA and RCGT.
__________________
www.battlefieldraceway.com Racing videos at http://www.youtube.com/snoopyrc
snoopyrc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2009, 10:15 AM   #24
Tech Master
 
IndyRC_Racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 1,820
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by heretic View Post
...
Don't know about the tt01 but I tend to be veeery skeptic with this type of car. I defy anyone with a fully hopped up tt01 to beat a RtR tc3-tc4. Plain IMPOSSIBLE. I would'nt even give one to my kid, I would be too afraid he thinks his dad is LAME. ....
I normally race VTA and have been beaten by a TT-01E that had a tub chassis and minimal upgrades. While the person with the TT-01 is a very good driver, he beat other decent drivers with TC3's and TC5's. While this may be an exception, it is possible.

If and when HPI releases adjustable upper a-arms for the E10, I will try it out in VTA. Until then, I will continue to enjoy it for what it is designed for.
__________________
I'm currently racing VTA. Check here for rules/info: http://www.usvintagetransam.com/
IndyRC_Racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2009, 11:49 AM   #25
Tech Master
 
heretic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: europe
Posts: 1,103
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyRC_Racer View Post
I normally race VTA and have been beaten by a TT-01E that had a tub chassis and minimal upgrades. While the person with the TT-01 is a very good driver, he beat other decent drivers with TC3's and TC5's. While this may be an exception, it is possible.

If and when HPI releases adjustable upper a-arms for the E10, I will try it out in VTA. Until then, I will continue to enjoy it for what it is designed for.
OK, "mea culpa "

You're tempting me to try...
heretic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2009, 01:35 PM   #26
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 36
Default

I think we are getting a little off of the reason why these cars exist in the first place..

They are Entry Level.. These cars are made and developed for beginning drivers who either want to try out RC and/or do not have the funds to purchase a race level car right off the bat.

The reason why we make upgrades for these cars is so that when the person who buys one of these cars decides they are good enough or wish to enhance the driving of one of these cars they have a way of upgrading it to be as competitive as possible without having to throw away their initial investment.

Granted you could buy a used Race level car for an amount close to the E10 or TT01 with a few upgrades but there are many who would not purchase a used car as they do wear out and you don't know how well it was treated. drivelines and suspension wear out and even a graphite chassis that takes a lot of hits will not be nearly as good as a new one. You don't always know how the car was driven and for someone on a budget they may not wish to take on all the replacements that can be associated with a used car..

An upgraded E10 or TT01 in most cases will not be as competitive as a full race level car but in the hands of a good driver can beat them. Also with rule set-ups like RCGT or Trans-Am where tires are set and minimum weights and motor size are adhered to it actually drops the value of a full race level car as it evens the playing field through traction and power limits.

There is a place for these cars and they are not for everyone but there is a reason why they exist and are popular.

Brion Sohn
President
Penguin r/c
Penguin r/c is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2009, 02:07 PM   #27
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Strong Island NY
Posts: 38
Default

I had been a little weary of an e10I was looking for a cheap out of the box drifter that I could bang around as I learn and not sweat the damage so muchnow that I read you folks at penguin or working with it, Im excited to pick one up.
popdada is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2009, 06:52 PM   #28
Tech Rookie
 
felgood's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Central Oahu, Hawaii
Posts: 1
Default

whats up guys, im a noob here but I just had to reply to this. Im an E10 lover and advocate though up until now I wouldnt recommend people to get the E10 then unless they were willing to pay for the time and stress. Now its a different story as there a lot of option parts available. I have probably spent about $500 - $1000 on my E10 and with no regrets. I have built it to point where I like it. The only thing I need now is for the adjustable arms to be ready for sale in the US market or in ebay. I've made adj. arms for mines with turnbuckles but were snapping em in pieces on heavy hits to the wheels, so I took it off and will wait for the option. Ive also made a lot of custom parts for it and tweaked on it since I got it. I bash it, ran it on course surfaces, Ive competed with it on drift comps and its my fave to drift other than my Pro4 (when I had it). I also love to use it on Body Comps because of the detailed disc & rotors, rear diffusers, and wheel spacers. Yes its an entry kit but it has potential and i love the weight shifts when its drifting and i can use 10mm offsets on it w/o a problem.

What Im basically saying is that I respect everybody's opinion but dont knock on something out of ignorance, frustration, or just cause... its a good kit and i agree with Penguin R/C that its an "entry level" kit... but its a blast when you can beat a pro kit with it.... thanks for your time
__________________
hawaiiscalemodels.com
xprmntclothing.com
felgood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2010, 12:09 PM   #29
Tech Regular
 
yobouno's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 358
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

I know this thread is about 1 year old. Not sure if anyone still read this.

IMHO, E10 is now very cheap to get, esp if you're getting one with no body. The parts I see that's problematic has pretty much been said, ie, lack of Camber and Suspension is a bit iffy. That can be easily fixed with some cheap alloy parts from Hong Kong. Besides that. Is there any concerns on gearing and power transfer in the drive train department?

I would like some info on gearing? the internal gearing is 7.48:1 and the stock comes with 65T spur and 22T pinion. What is the best combination for a LRP SXX + 11.5T motor?

I do have expensive cars, but my hobby is always make a cheap car drivable and even better when they can beat a TRF or X-Ray on a track. It's always fun to look at the driver's face when you say the overall cost of your car is $300 when they spent thousands on their TRF.

Don't get me wrong, there a place for good cars, but when you're going to encourage more ppl to race, can't tell them don't come until you've got money. That's why I enjoy the challenge of making a cheap chassis fast. RC is always about mechanical grip. Any car can have good mechanical grip is you build it right. You can always make a cheap car drives like a TRF. And you can always make any car drives crap.
__________________
TAMYA M05, TB03, TA05 V2, TRF417X
yobouno is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2010, 05:06 AM   #30
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 16
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by yobouno View Post
I know this thread is about 1 year old. Not sure if anyone still read this.

IMHO, E10 is now very cheap to get, esp if you're getting one with no body. The parts I see that's problematic has pretty much been said, ie, lack of Camber and Suspension is a bit iffy. That can be easily fixed with some cheap alloy parts from Hong Kong. Besides that. Is there any concerns on gearing and power transfer in the drive train department?

I would like some info on gearing? the internal gearing is 7.48:1 and the stock comes with 65T spur and 22T pinion. What is the best combination for a LRP SXX + 11.5T motor?

I do have expensive cars, but my hobby is always make a cheap car drivable and even better when they can beat a TRF or X-Ray on a track. It's always fun to look at the driver's face when you say the overall cost of your car is $300 when they spent thousands on their TRF.

Don't get me wrong, there a place for good cars, but when you're going to encourage more ppl to race, can't tell them don't come until you've got money. That's why I enjoy the challenge of making a cheap chassis fast. RC is always about mechanical grip. Any car can have good mechanical grip is you build it right. You can always make a cheap car drives like a TRF. And you can always make any car drives crap.
wise man here
daytona squared is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
NEW HPI E10 DRIFT AND E10 TOURING xsxracing Electric On-Road 29 01-30-2011 12:22 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:28 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net