18LikesXray NT1
06-17-2010, 04:36 PM
#5371
Btw this is what I'm currently working on:
I really dislike the blade-type ARB, and almost bought a Serpent just because of the front wire type ARB the 733 has.
When the Capricorn set was released I decided to go for it and make it work on the NT1.
Received the set yesterday and it seems to be more of a challenge as I thought it would be.
I still have to machine the sides of the bulkheads so I can fasten the red bushings and have to make some carbon sideplates so I can fasten the top sides op the front bulkheads.
Had to cut the front off so make space for the ARB, but lost the two front mounting holes in the process.
Also planning on cutting two carbon plates for the downstop adjustment.
Planning on testing the system this Saturday.
I really dislike the blade-type ARB, and almost bought a Serpent just because of the front wire type ARB the 733 has.
When the Capricorn set was released I decided to go for it and make it work on the NT1.
Received the set yesterday and it seems to be more of a challenge as I thought it would be.
I still have to machine the sides of the bulkheads so I can fasten the red bushings and have to make some carbon sideplates so I can fasten the top sides op the front bulkheads.
Had to cut the front off so make space for the ARB, but lost the two front mounting holes in the process.
Also planning on cutting two carbon plates for the downstop adjustment.
Planning on testing the system this Saturday.
06-17-2010, 04:54 PM
#5372
Btw this is what I'm currently working on:
I really dislike the blade-type ARB, and almost bought a Serpent just because of the front wire type ARB the 733 has.
When the Capricorn set was released I decided to go for it and make it work on the NT1.
Received the set yesterday and it seems to be more of a challenge as I thought it would be.
I still have to machine the sides of the bulkheads so I can fasten the red bushings and have to make some carbon sideplates so I can fasten the top sides op the front bulkheads.
Had to cut the front off so make space for the ARB, but lost the two front mounting holes in the process.
Also planning on cutting two carbon plates for the downstop adjustment.
Planning on testing the system this Saturday.
I really dislike the blade-type ARB, and almost bought a Serpent just because of the front wire type ARB the 733 has.
When the Capricorn set was released I decided to go for it and make it work on the NT1.
Received the set yesterday and it seems to be more of a challenge as I thought it would be.
I still have to machine the sides of the bulkheads so I can fasten the red bushings and have to make some carbon sideplates so I can fasten the top sides op the front bulkheads.
Had to cut the front off so make space for the ARB, but lost the two front mounting holes in the process.
Also planning on cutting two carbon plates for the downstop adjustment.
Planning on testing the system this Saturday.
06-17-2010, 07:24 PM
#5373
Eccenter is the adjustable cam which houses the bearing, it's eccentric, so called an eccenter.
The measurement shown in your picture is the bearing outside to outside measurement so 39.90.
I have the Capricorn diff gears and pins and Xray lightweight outdrives, but I forgot how much they weighed, it was around 20-25 grams lighter compared to a stock diff.
Edit: front diff 24 grams, rear diff 27 grams.
Would recommend the Capricorn diff gears if you want the plastic gears since they last and have been thoroughly tested, I've already seen multiple broken Xceed diff gears.
Rear diff is 28.6 outside bearing to outside bearing.
The measurement shown in your picture is the bearing outside to outside measurement so 39.90.
I have the Capricorn diff gears and pins and Xray lightweight outdrives, but I forgot how much they weighed, it was around 20-25 grams lighter compared to a stock diff.
Edit: front diff 24 grams, rear diff 27 grams.
Would recommend the Capricorn diff gears if you want the plastic gears since they last and have been thoroughly tested, I've already seen multiple broken Xceed diff gears.
Rear diff is 28.6 outside bearing to outside bearing.
Pass you soon...
06-19-2010, 04:02 AM
#5374
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
HI guys quick question for anyone who knows.
Does anyone know what gearing do you use for the toledo track in Ohio?
I`m looking for the pinions and the spurs and tire size.
Thanks guys.
I`ll be my first time there and i don`t want to be mucking around there whole day looking for the proper gearing.
Does anyone know what gearing do you use for the toledo track in Ohio?
I`m looking for the pinions and the spurs and tire size.
Thanks guys.
I`ll be my first time there and i don`t want to be mucking around there whole day looking for the proper gearing.
06-19-2010, 06:09 AM
#5375
HI guys quick question for anyone who knows.
Does anyone know what gearing do you use for the toledo track in Ohio?
I`m looking for the pinions and the spurs and tire size.
Thanks guys.
I`ll be my first time there and i don`t want to be mucking around there whole day looking for the proper gearing.
Does anyone know what gearing do you use for the toledo track in Ohio?
I`m looking for the pinions and the spurs and tire size.
Thanks guys.
I`ll be my first time there and i don`t want to be mucking around there whole day looking for the proper gearing.
06-19-2010, 07:58 AM
#5377
Tech Apprentice
06-20-2010, 03:38 PM
#5378
HI guys quick question for anyone who knows.
Does anyone know what gearing do you use for the toledo track in Ohio?
I`m looking for the pinions and the spurs and tire size.
Thanks guys.
I`ll be my first time there and i don`t want to be mucking around there whole day looking for the proper gearing.
Does anyone know what gearing do you use for the toledo track in Ohio?
I`m looking for the pinions and the spurs and tire size.
Thanks guys.
I`ll be my first time there and i don`t want to be mucking around there whole day looking for the proper gearing.
Pass you soon...
06-22-2010, 04:43 AM
#5379
Oil Diff conversion rate?
Hey guys, I have noticed that since NT1's diff are so small... a 60k in the rear actually feel like 20k-30k, or somewhere around there. Has anyone tried a full comparison between NT1's diffs and the diffs of cars like MTX4/RRR???
Like to say... if its half... And I would want 50k in my diff, I would use 100k in my rear diff.
Another example is that I am using Diff Locking Fluid upfront, and it only feels like 200k-300k.
Hey guys, I have noticed that since NT1's diff are so small... a 60k in the rear actually feel like 20k-30k, or somewhere around there. Has anyone tried a full comparison between NT1's diffs and the diffs of cars like MTX4/RRR???
Like to say... if its half... And I would want 50k in my diff, I would use 100k in my rear diff.
Another example is that I am using Diff Locking Fluid upfront, and it only feels like 200k-300k.
im thinking 50k rear, 100k front?
06-22-2010, 05:03 AM
#5380
if you are using xray oils in the NT1 diffs you need to take 50,000 off the bottles number
example - 80,000 is equal to approx 30,000.
i am currently running 200,000 xray oil in the front to achieve 150,000
and 80,000 xray oil in the rear to achieve 30,000
06-22-2010, 05:14 AM
#5381
it also depends on the brand of oil you are using, my observations and opinions are below
if you are using xray oils in the NT1 diffs you need to take 50,000 off the bottles number
example - 80,000 is equal to approx 30,000.
i am currently running 200,000 xray oil in the front to achieve 150,000
and 80,000 xray oil in the rear to achieve 30,000
if you are using xray oils in the NT1 diffs you need to take 50,000 off the bottles number
example - 80,000 is equal to approx 30,000.
i am currently running 200,000 xray oil in the front to achieve 150,000
and 80,000 xray oil in the rear to achieve 30,000
i run in a small, tight, low/mid traction track.
06-22-2010, 05:29 AM
#5382
eg - 50,000 to achieve 30,000
my suggestion for you to try would be 50,000 in the rear to achieve 30,000 feel
and 100,000 in the front to achieve 80,000 feel and if you require more steering increase the thickness of the front oil to 120,000 or 150,000
06-23-2010, 12:19 PM
#5383
Finished and tested the front ARB today, took a bit longer because I had to travel to Germany for work.
But tested the system today and first results were positive.
Only drove it for 5 minutes because I arrived 1 hour before closing time.
It was very easy to setup the ARB and get the tweak out, just as easy as it is with the rear end.
The car was understeering because I started with the medium wire while I normally use the soft blades at their softest setting.
The differences were the car was more stable on turn in, felt more linear somehow.
But the biggest improvement was under hard braking, normally my car twitches a bit under hard braking but with the wire ARB this was completely gone.
I could brake harder and later and steering towards the apex while braking was easier.
So saturday I will try the soft ARB and I think this will get rid of the understeer. I also used the normal steering blocks on the wire-type front end while I normally run the 1 degree kingpin blocks. Will put these on the wire-type suspension as well.
Here some pictures of the finished system:
I used 3mm carbon for the downstop brackets and 1.5mm carbon as side brackets to connect the upper and lower bulkheads because I lost the front mounting holes for the upper bulkhead to make space for the ARB mounts.
But tested the system today and first results were positive.
Only drove it for 5 minutes because I arrived 1 hour before closing time.
It was very easy to setup the ARB and get the tweak out, just as easy as it is with the rear end.
The car was understeering because I started with the medium wire while I normally use the soft blades at their softest setting.
The differences were the car was more stable on turn in, felt more linear somehow.
But the biggest improvement was under hard braking, normally my car twitches a bit under hard braking but with the wire ARB this was completely gone.
I could brake harder and later and steering towards the apex while braking was easier.
So saturday I will try the soft ARB and I think this will get rid of the understeer. I also used the normal steering blocks on the wire-type front end while I normally run the 1 degree kingpin blocks. Will put these on the wire-type suspension as well.
Here some pictures of the finished system:
I used 3mm carbon for the downstop brackets and 1.5mm carbon as side brackets to connect the upper and lower bulkheads because I lost the front mounting holes for the upper bulkhead to make space for the ARB mounts.
06-24-2010, 11:56 AM
#5385
Nice job !