Cain

iTrader: (294)

Anyone here running or ran an X-ray T3 2012? if so, what hexes did you end up with front and rear?

robk

iTrader: (22)

Like I have said before, if the Tekin fits our spec, I would love to have them in on this thing. The more the merrier...

As far as motors, for this class one motor is working just fine. As far as the Boss having the cooling holes, well, that's why Novak's endbell kit with cooling holes is allowed for the older motors. Everybody can still be on the same page.

I know in the past some have theorized that the 5000 or lower capacity will be better for lower power classes as the battery in naturally heated up more than a bigger battery...I don't know. Anyway SMC sells a 5000 50C for $32...Gens Ace has a 5000 40c for $39...Ea's 70c is $65..those are just batteries I looked up in about 1 minute so there's lots of batteries and price points in the 5000mAh range.

GP40X

iTrader: (10)

Rob,

When using the Novak end bell kit, can you use both end bells or just the motor shaft end bell?

Cain

iTrader: (294)

no worries, hope I didn't stir up something, just reporting back what I was told when I asked about the batteries.

GP40X

iTrader: (10)

I am running +1.5 Xray hexes up front and standard hexes in the rear.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Thanks!

I must be measuring wrong then. I put the 1.5+ on the rear and then measured to be at 200mm, and I had .75's for the fronts.

Or, is it a handling advantage to go with the standard rears and 1.5 fronts?

Sorry for the questions, new to this.

DARKSIDE

iTrader: (2)

you cool...no pot stirring unless its me...it is my turn...lol...ask as many questions as needed...that what all of us on this thread is here for...the growth of the USVTA class...ask away no problem...you wont know unless you ask...

Myron

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Thanks.


I've had ballistics in the past and they worked fine, I just want to make sure if I get some and a lipo (in board connectors, need to search for those that don't go nuts on price) that Its at least on point with other drivers versus getting what isn't the best option at the time versus getting the wrong gear that is legal and having to rebuy.

Anyone got a suggestion on those tester devices guys are using? Not saying I would grab one now, but would be curious to see what they go for or at least know what are good numbers to look for on a motor if someone is selling one with ratings given.

DARKSIDE

iTrader: (2)

the trick to any motor is to get the right timing and gear(FDR)...you can have 3 Novak motors, and the timing and gearing will give you different settings with the same car and lap times...

Now of course you can get a dog....but put the right gear on it and it will come alive(hopefully)

DARKSIDE

iTrader: (2)

maybe this will help

Rodarbal

iTrader: (49)

As in multimeter? Any decent one will do to read the DC resistance in milli ohms from coil to coil. I don't recall off the top of my head what the lowest allowable coil to coil resistance is for the Novak 25.5s at USVTA-sanctioned races. Generally, the lower the resistance, the faster the motor. But I know guys who have higher resistance motors who are plenty fast on track.

To Myron's point, I bought my one and only Ballistic 25.5 sight unseen. In other words, I didn't give a hoot about its numbers, I just wanted run VTA ASAP! LOL... I plopped it in and lucky me, it was a fast one. Just need to drive it!

DARKSIDE

iTrader: (2)

true...my numbers on my motor are crap compared to others...lol..but that's why my motor never gets max motor timing, it makes it slow and hot...my motor likes 35 or lower at 3.7 FDR on most tracks...

The new Boss motor I tried at Halloween Classic and Summit, it wont come alive without max time and lower gearing

GP40X

iTrader: (10)

Nope, it's to keep the front VTA wheels from rubbing the front shocks when using a single hole front lower arm. It also tucks the front axle stub inside the edge of the wheel some which saves on breakage when popping a board.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

cool thanks for the info everyone.

I remember when I did VTA a few years ago, made the mistake of doing a cop car body with working lights and siren. Made for me to be a nice target on the track lol but was some of the most fun racing I did back then.

1/12 is big at the track I will be going to but never felt right to me.

Anyway, I remember one driver had a ballistic motor, 25.5 but it had torque and speed wayyy beyond what anyone else had at the track. It was shocking to say the least. Which when reading up a bit on measuring resistance, etc. makes me wonder if he had weeded out the crappier motors and found a great one.

which, in a way reminds me of the old days of what we did with brushed motors to get a great one lol.

Anyway, thanks for all the info everyone.

For my Xray T3 2012s to build on what I have, I put the 0.75 hexes up front and the 1.5s on the rear. measuring with a ruler I believe its legal from what I can tell. But I could be wrong.

howardcano

iTrader: (37)

There are very few multimeters that can measure low resistances accurately enough.

I use a homebuilt 1A current source along with a normal, run-of-the-mill DVM to make these measurements.

One can also use a power resistor and LiPo battery as the current source, with the resistor being about 1 ohm per volt to give about one amp. This is much cheaper than buying a dedicated milliohmmeter, though not as accurate. It works fine for comparing motors.

At the moment, there is no ROAR rule regarding motor resistance. (If resistance is measured, it is only used as a flag to indicate that a motor might need further examination.) I have written resistance rules, but they have not yet been ratified. Here is the suggested rule for 25.5 motors:

"The resistance between terminals A to B, A to C, and B to C must be at least 102.1 milliohms at 25C, when measured over a range of 20 to 30 degrees C and multiplied by a correction factor of (1-((T_measured-25)*0.00393))."