Cobra zz

Is there any real advantage on using the Ti screws set ? Or is it just bling ?
What is the weight saving ? Any downtrade regarding durability or structural weakness ?

Thanks guys.

aizenbelle

+1

asw7576

Postive : Ti screws are lighter, get no rust, bling2 factor.

Negative : Ti screws are easier to get bend and/or strip at the hex area.

Bottom chassis : Steel screws

Upper chassis : Ti screws.

Cobra zz

So we must consider it only as a cool bling bling option, since using the screws only in the upper area will result in very small weight savings (maybe 10 to 15 grams), right ?

Thanks.

Serpent-Dan

iTrader: (18)

Hey guys I have a very very lightly used 09' NT1 with a few optional parts I'm looking to move.
$350 US.

etgdpu

I would say that the saving is more than 15gr about 45-55gr. A least that was the saving to my previous car, where I replaced all the screws except the ones that go on the chassis.
When I built the NT1, I installed the titanium ones from the first time and I can't say the difference. I recommend the mugen ti screws, which are very high quality.

Cobra zz

Sounds interesting...I will try it.

Thanks

bboy

Any reasons why you stay with steel at the bottom? I see some people do it but never understood why. ...

Cheers.

RayJ

The car is already light. Most weight that needs to be added should be done at it's lowest point the chassis. The other reason is that that the steel screws are stronger than Ti.

Hamfri

Hi to all!

Titan has a density of 4,5 and steel of 7,9 grams per cm3. The weight of a standard screw M3x8 is appr. 0,7 gram. When replacing 40 screws the saving will be about 15 grams.

This alone shouldn't be felt when driving the NT1. But together with further modifications you will lower the CG and have a remarkable effects on the track.

Regards

TomB

iTrader: (10)

initially if you wanted to save weight (or should i say lower it) i'd get a lipo and a brass tray. then to cut the weight down go:

-lighter drivetrain parts
-titanium pivot balls
-screws

in saying all of this though, it's best to focus on getting the clutch tuned just right, and to have the right shore tyres obviously

if i had to choose, i'd go for a lighter drivetrain straight up, then a lipo/brass tray combo. I would also get the aluminium clutch bell straight away, best thing i bought for the xray to date, clutch is a lot easier to tune now

freestyles

iTrader: (14)

I agree tomb. The clutch and 2 speed are very important to have set right to set fast laps. Once you do that then go for the weight saving measures. No point of having a really lite car that hardly moves cause the clutch isn't set right

On another note, i bought the xray purple (33lb) spring set and they are all the same length, which is the length of the longer rear shocks. Should i use all four on the car or is it a set of 4 rear springs? I assumed they were different sizes but on closer inspection found them all the same length. Not sure what to do

aizenbelle

+1
where did you get the aluminum clutch bell?

DS Motorsport

iTrader: (2)

The rear springs come in a set of 4.
The rear springs can also be used on the front.
The front springs are available separately in sets of 2.
The fronts in the same colour range as the rears are a bit stiffer (2-3 Lb).
I find it pretty stupid from xray to sell the springs like this, i now have a whole collection of rear springs which i will never use.

freestyles

iTrader: (14)

Ok so they are a set of four rear shock springs And they can be used on the front Is there a benefit or a loss in using them on the front?

Yes it is weird but there must be a reason behind it. When i use them up front the collar has to be wound all the way to the top of the threads on the shock body and it's not held by much, which leaves me with not much ride height adjustment.