9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
06-27-2011, 07:14 AM
Uh, I'm not worried about it. How about you go piss up a rope? It was a question. You weren't required to respond.
06-27-2011, 07:17 AM
I have the 14mm rotor and run the 18 tooth. I would recommend starting with the 17 as I can get it hot (180ish) on hot days.
All we do is race. If your bashing with it then shame on you... errr.. I mean gather more info to make sure mine doesn't hurt your gear.
06-27-2011, 07:20 AM
My guess is that since it's a brand new chassis and there's been running changes, that they haven't completely settled on a final production model yet. This is the benefit of working with a small company such as BCE. It also explains the small numbers on their first production run. Companies like BCE value feedback from the customers of the first run and make necessary changes if any are needed. If none are needed, then they'll probably start advertising their weight savings over stock chassis as a selling point and produce in much larger numbers. But they don't want to advertise it as one weight, then find out they need to add a few grams of material back on to a certain area, then have customers complaining that they overstated the weight savings. Wait a couple of months, then I'm sure production chassis' will all be the same and weights will be standardized fro them. Personally, I'm gonna order mine this week and can't wait to get it!
06-27-2011, 07:52 AM
Standard rotor on 30 plus second lap outdoor track start with a 13. The top driver at our track tried a 15 and thermaled. The 14 is fine for him.
I have the 14mm rotor and run the 18 tooth. I would recommend starting with the 17 as I can get it hot (180ish) on hot days.
All we do is race. If your bashing with it then shame on you... errr.. I mean gather more info to make sure mine doesn't hurt your gear.
I have the 14mm rotor and run the 18 tooth. I would recommend starting with the 17 as I can get it hot (180ish) on hot days.
All we do is race. If your bashing with it then shame on you... errr.. I mean gather more info to make sure mine doesn't hurt your gear.
06-27-2011, 08:25 AM
Alright, I found the answer I was looking for. The SCTE has a tranny ratio of 3.89 and the SCRT10 has a 3.25 just in case anyone was wondering.
06-27-2011, 08:29 AM
Just to give you guys a heads up... The titanium hinge pins that are going around are a tick bigger then the stockers. I'm talking 2 thou... Not much. The only thing that this affected was the losi aluminum hubs. It was more of a press fit then a slip fit. I'm just going to ream it to the correct size. Also there are rather large burs on the ends that need to be cleaned up before instaling them.
06-27-2011, 08:43 AM
Are the alum rear hub needed?
06-27-2011, 09:01 AM
some say they break, but i have never had any issue with the plastic in the scte or the truggy. i guess it comes down to preferences.
06-27-2011, 09:03 AM
06-27-2011, 09:14 AM
06-27-2011, 09:15 AM
06-27-2011, 09:22 AM
So far in ~6mos of hard racing I've broken
-rear bumper (just that one spot that was revised)
-rear center drive shaft pin snapped inside the cvd (made a custom out of an old bit driver (the shaft on my 1.5 driver fit perfect))
-rear center drive shaft warped a little, still worked but I did replace it out
Pretty short list really.. the bumper only broke because I was having a ESC issue and I was casing one of our jumps (Not pretty).. which has been resolved but it didn't help my body or bumpers LOL.
I'm going to replace my diff cup on the center diff this week when I rebuild as well to see if it reduces some of the play on the outdrive.. I think this excessive play is what lead to the warped rear center drive shaft.
06-27-2011, 09:29 AM
I run w/ no shock boots.. iMO they work better this way.. I just keep them clean.
I agree, I run on a big burly outdoor track and I'm still on my original set.. pretty tough if you ask me! I do keep a spare set in my box because of all the breaks back when it was cold outside..
So far in ~6mos of hard racing I've broken
-rear bumper (just that one spot that was revised)
-rear center drive shaft pin snapped inside the cvd (made a custom out of an old bit driver (the shaft on my 1.5 driver fit perfect))
-rear center drive shaft warped a little, still worked but I did replace it out
Pretty short list really.. the bumper only broke because I was having a ESC issue and I was casing one of our jumps (Not pretty).. which has been resolved but it didn't help my body or bumpers LOL.
I'm going to replace my diff cup on the center diff this week when I rebuild as well to see if it reduces some of the play on the outdrive.. I think this excessive play is what lead to the warped rear center drive shaft.
I agree, I run on a big burly outdoor track and I'm still on my original set.. pretty tough if you ask me! I do keep a spare set in my box because of all the breaks back when it was cold outside..
So far in ~6mos of hard racing I've broken
-rear bumper (just that one spot that was revised)
-rear center drive shaft pin snapped inside the cvd (made a custom out of an old bit driver (the shaft on my 1.5 driver fit perfect))
-rear center drive shaft warped a little, still worked but I did replace it out
Pretty short list really.. the bumper only broke because I was having a ESC issue and I was casing one of our jumps (Not pretty).. which has been resolved but it didn't help my body or bumpers LOL.
I'm going to replace my diff cup on the center diff this week when I rebuild as well to see if it reduces some of the play on the outdrive.. I think this excessive play is what lead to the warped rear center drive shaft.
06-27-2011, 09:35 AM
I run w/ no shock boots.. iMO they work better this way.. I just keep them clean.
I agree, I run on a big burly outdoor track and I'm still on my original set.. pretty tough if you ask me! I do keep a spare set in my box because of all the breaks back when it was cold outside..
So far in ~6mos of hard racing I've broken
-rear bumper (just that one spot that was revised)
-rear center drive shaft pin snapped inside the cvd (made a custom out of an old bit driver (the shaft on my 1.5 driver fit perfect))
-rear center drive shaft warped a little, still worked but I did replace it out
Pretty short list really.. the bumper only broke because I was having a ESC issue and I was casing one of our jumps (Not pretty).. which has been resolved but it didn't help my body or bumpers LOL.
I'm going to replace my diff cup on the center diff this week when I rebuild as well to see if it reduces some of the play on the outdrive.. I think this excessive play is what lead to the warped rear center drive shaft.
I agree, I run on a big burly outdoor track and I'm still on my original set.. pretty tough if you ask me! I do keep a spare set in my box because of all the breaks back when it was cold outside..
So far in ~6mos of hard racing I've broken
-rear bumper (just that one spot that was revised)
-rear center drive shaft pin snapped inside the cvd (made a custom out of an old bit driver (the shaft on my 1.5 driver fit perfect))
-rear center drive shaft warped a little, still worked but I did replace it out
Pretty short list really.. the bumper only broke because I was having a ESC issue and I was casing one of our jumps (Not pretty).. which has been resolved but it didn't help my body or bumpers LOL.
I'm going to replace my diff cup on the center diff this week when I rebuild as well to see if it reduces some of the play on the outdrive.. I think this excessive play is what lead to the warped rear center drive shaft.
the sc10 4x4 seems to have better boots that dont get ripped by the spring cap once they're set maybe ill barrow my buddy shock boots and try them, i dont know if i can go without them. Only reason is i would assume i would need to replace the shock seals more often then i originally thought. My list is short too with only 3 axles in the last week
did you have a chance to try out the new crc lipo packs vs the orions? i was going to order some 5k 45c soft case zippy's but i thought i would hold until i hear your opinion
06-27-2011, 09:45 AM
Tech Addict
I've had my boots off my shocks since day one and have yet to have to rebuild my shocks. You just have to clean them after you run. Not that much work for better performance.