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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 06-27-2011, 07:14 AM
  #12886  
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Originally Posted by Cult Racing View Post
The reason why I said that is because, you know the weight now, but your still asking why they didnt post it in the first place. SO either buy one or dont worry about it.
Uh, I'm not worried about it. How about you go piss up a rope? It was a question. You weren't required to respond.
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Old 06-27-2011, 07:17 AM
  #12887  
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Originally Posted by CHIZZLE View Post
Pinion suggestions for a Novak 550 can 4.5 motor? I'll be running the Havoc Pro SC esc too.
Standard rotor on 30 plus second lap outdoor track start with a 13. The top driver at our track tried a 15 and thermaled. The 14 is fine for him.

I have the 14mm rotor and run the 18 tooth. I would recommend starting with the 17 as I can get it hot (180ish) on hot days.

All we do is race. If your bashing with it then shame on you... errr.. I mean gather more info to make sure mine doesn't hurt your gear.
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Old 06-27-2011, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by ScottKelly911 View Post
My guess is that since it's a brand new chassis and there's been running changes, that they haven't completely settled on a final production model yet. This is the benefit of working with a small company such as BCE. It also explains the small numbers on their first production run. Companies like BCE value feedback from the customers of the first run and make necessary changes if any are needed. If none are needed, then they'll probably start advertising their weight savings over stock chassis as a selling point and produce in much larger numbers. But they don't want to advertise it as one weight, then find out they need to add a few grams of material back on to a certain area, then have customers complaining that they overstated the weight savings. Wait a couple of months, then I'm sure production chassis' will all be the same and weights will be standardized fro them. Personally, I'm gonna order mine this week and can't wait to get it!
probably so, yeah.
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Old 06-27-2011, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Buzz3 View Post
Standard rotor on 30 plus second lap outdoor track start with a 13. The top driver at our track tried a 15 and thermaled. The 14 is fine for him.

I have the 14mm rotor and run the 18 tooth. I would recommend starting with the 17 as I can get it hot (180ish) on hot days.

All we do is race. If your bashing with it then shame on you... errr.. I mean gather more info to make sure mine doesn't hurt your gear.
Cool, thanks. I've been running a 13t on my SCRT10 but that's with a 46t spur. Not sure how the tranny ratio's compare between the two trucks. Anybody know? Guess I'll pick up a 14t and 15t and go from there. Stock spur is what, a 40t?
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Old 06-27-2011, 08:25 AM
  #12890  
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Alright, I found the answer I was looking for. The SCTE has a tranny ratio of 3.89 and the SCRT10 has a 3.25 just in case anyone was wondering.
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Old 06-27-2011, 08:29 AM
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Just to give you guys a heads up... The titanium hinge pins that are going around are a tick bigger then the stockers. I'm talking 2 thou... Not much. The only thing that this affected was the losi aluminum hubs. It was more of a press fit then a slip fit. I'm just going to ream it to the correct size. Also there are rather large burs on the ends that need to be cleaned up before instaling them.
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Old 06-27-2011, 08:43 AM
  #12892  
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Are the alum rear hub needed?
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Old 06-27-2011, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by liftedcj7on44s View Post
Is anyone using Some sort of glue to keep the shock boots on? Every time I blow the truck off with air they come loose from the top of the shock and I have to fiddle with them.
im gonna see if the sc10 boots work then they get in stock. anyone tried them?

Originally Posted by losi_racer View Post
Are the alum rear hub needed?


some say they break, but i have never had any issue with the plastic in the scte or the truggy. i guess it comes down to preferences.
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Old 06-27-2011, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by losi_racer View Post
Are the alum rear hub needed?
I would say if you run on burly outdoor tracks or in really cold weather, they are a good idea. Other than that, not needed per se.
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Old 06-27-2011, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr.juarez View Post
im gonna see if the sc10 boots work then they get in stock. anyone tried them?





some say they break, but i have never had any issue with the plastic in the scte or the truggy. i guess it comes down to preferences.
Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
I would say if you run on burly outdoor tracks or in really cold weather, they are a good idea. Other than that, not needed per se.
Thanks,think I'm ok in az regarding the weather since it's 115 todAy lol
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Old 06-27-2011, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
I would say if you run on burly outdoor tracks or in really cold weather, they are a good idea. Other than that, not needed per se.
I have a pair of them in hand just in case.
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Old 06-27-2011, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr.juarez View Post
im gonna see if the sc10 boots work then they get in stock. anyone tried them?
I run w/ no shock boots.. iMO they work better this way.. I just keep them clean.


Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
I would say if you run on burly outdoor tracks or in really cold weather, they are a good idea. Other than that, not needed per se.
I agree, I run on a big burly outdoor track and I'm still on my original set.. pretty tough if you ask me! I do keep a spare set in my box because of all the breaks back when it was cold outside..

So far in ~6mos of hard racing I've broken

-rear bumper (just that one spot that was revised)
-rear center drive shaft pin snapped inside the cvd (made a custom out of an old bit driver (the shaft on my 1.5 driver fit perfect))
-rear center drive shaft warped a little, still worked but I did replace it out

Pretty short list really.. the bumper only broke because I was having a ESC issue and I was casing one of our jumps (Not pretty).. which has been resolved but it didn't help my body or bumpers LOL.

I'm going to replace my diff cup on the center diff this week when I rebuild as well to see if it reduces some of the play on the outdrive.. I think this excessive play is what lead to the warped rear center drive shaft.
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Old 06-27-2011, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e View Post
I run w/ no shock boots.. iMO they work better this way.. I just keep them clean.




I agree, I run on a big burly outdoor track and I'm still on my original set.. pretty tough if you ask me! I do keep a spare set in my box because of all the breaks back when it was cold outside..

So far in ~6mos of hard racing I've broken

-rear bumper (just that one spot that was revised)
-rear center drive shaft pin snapped inside the cvd (made a custom out of an old bit driver (the shaft on my 1.5 driver fit perfect))
-rear center drive shaft warped a little, still worked but I did replace it out

Pretty short list really.. the bumper only broke because I was having a ESC issue and I was casing one of our jumps (Not pretty).. which has been resolved but it didn't help my body or bumpers LOL.

I'm going to replace my diff cup on the center diff this week when I rebuild as well to see if it reduces some of the play on the outdrive.. I think this excessive play is what lead to the warped rear center drive shaft.
that's good to know . Im goin to buy some spares was thinking driveline,hub,spindles ,gear box cases
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Old 06-27-2011, 09:35 AM
  #12899  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e View Post
I run w/ no shock boots.. iMO they work better this way.. I just keep them clean.




I agree, I run on a big burly outdoor track and I'm still on my original set.. pretty tough if you ask me! I do keep a spare set in my box because of all the breaks back when it was cold outside..

So far in ~6mos of hard racing I've broken

-rear bumper (just that one spot that was revised)
-rear center drive shaft pin snapped inside the cvd (made a custom out of an old bit driver (the shaft on my 1.5 driver fit perfect))
-rear center drive shaft warped a little, still worked but I did replace it out

Pretty short list really.. the bumper only broke because I was having a ESC issue and I was casing one of our jumps (Not pretty).. which has been resolved but it didn't help my body or bumpers LOL.

I'm going to replace my diff cup on the center diff this week when I rebuild as well to see if it reduces some of the play on the outdrive.. I think this excessive play is what lead to the warped rear center drive shaft.

the sc10 4x4 seems to have better boots that dont get ripped by the spring cap once they're set maybe ill barrow my buddy shock boots and try them, i dont know if i can go without them. Only reason is i would assume i would need to replace the shock seals more often then i originally thought. My list is short too with only 3 axles in the last week

did you have a chance to try out the new crc lipo packs vs the orions? i was going to order some 5k 45c soft case zippy's but i thought i would hold until i hear your opinion
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Old 06-27-2011, 09:45 AM
  #12900  
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I've had my boots off my shocks since day one and have yet to have to rebuild my shocks. You just have to clean them after you run. Not that much work for better performance.
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