ICEMAN

iTrader: (1)

metric 48

Jam-ehz

iTrader: (6)

They're all new molds, as the bearings they hold are 5x10 instead of 5x11 for the standard suspension on both M03/4's and TA04/5's

Although I wouldn't doubt they took a few design details from their Lightweight suspension parts.. Has anyone noticed there's a moulded hole at the bottom of the front and rear uprights, as if you could drill it out and put a grub screw in there to hold the suspension pin, just like the lightweight suspension?

Nitro_Crash

I just purchased a Team Orion Lipo 3200 and ran it in my M03L with the Tamiya Sport-tuned motor and 20T pinion and it was FAST but need to readjust handling.

raffaelli

iTrader: (13)

thank you

Totohl

anybody selling a Cooper MO1. am building a small toyota need the chassis of a MO1? Thanks

bizkit1

iTrader: (27)

YGPM Totohl

minimanintaiwan

hi guys, anyone know of best online shop (price/selection/hasslefree/shipping costs) to get TECH RACING hopups for m03.? Is it possible to get it from tech racing? Their website is all in Japanese. Jr-rc on ebay has some stuff. Has anyone dealt with this person?

thanks

flying G.E.O.

iTrader: (4)

Hi, how did you use your carbon lipo with the mo3 chassis? My platinum lipo plugs is blocked by the plastic battery support and the chassis slot is round so my square batt can't fit. Did you run the connector and pluges under instead of on top?

Core Creations

iTrader: (108)

I'd try RC-CHAMP.CO.JP they carry all of TECHs products and their prices are the best period!

jakster

iTrader: (2)

the new 3200 orion batt is the same size as a stick pack, so it will fit no problem.
the 4800 is square,
un less you dremel a ton of plastic
it wont fit. thats one of the reasons for the 3200 battery is its size and weight savings. also it has very good run time.

yes you run the wires on the bottom to clear.

tony gray

iTrader: (7)

JR-RC (Jason Reid) is great. Excellent service and has done so for years. RC-Champ is great but you need to email them with specific questions ([email protected]) as their website is a nightmare unless you know what you're doing.
Rainbow Ten stock a lot of Tech stuff too but the prices aren't as cheap as rc-champ or JR-RC.

flying G.E.O.

iTrader: (4)

I thought so. Thanks.

waltuo

iTrader: (2)

So there I was battling it out for second about 13/14 minutes into a our 15 minute main. The first place leader had already lapped the field, so the battle was for second, and it was a close battle between 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. I was gaining on second and had the motor to take it assuming I keep my line consistent. When BAM! I bumped the wall in the apex of a hairpin turn.

It didn't seem like a bad hit at the time, but that was all she wrote. The car was driving funny and slow from there on. Once I had a chance, I took the car apart and noticed that the teeth on one side (the side I hit) of the diff that the outdrive bites into was completely smoothed of all it's teeth.

I'm using a Manta Ray Diff Gear set (part #53070). Is it common for this part to fail?

I've included a photo, but since I don't yet have a macro lens, this is as much of a closeup as I can get. It should get the point across.

Sydewynder

I'm using a manta ray ball diff and I haven't had this problem. I've hit the boards hard enough to launch the car a couple of feet in the air.

Was your diff set really tight to the point where it's like a spool?

Turbonium

iTrader: (27)

i had that happen once... you might check to see that the outdrive is staying fully in the diff. i think when mine stripped, i had forgotten to put the oring on the outdrive to keep it in place, so it slipped out, reducing the tooth contact.