Hot Bodies Cyclone
Hi guys, in fact i couldn't find more genuine diff cushion for alum. diff. in any shop.
Could somebody tell me if that 1 of 3racing (CY-08A) could use on HB original pro spec alum. diff. of TC, please?
Best regards
Could somebody tell me if that 1 of 3racing (CY-08A) could use on HB original pro spec alum. diff. of TC, please?
Best regards
Tech Adept
Thanks for your tip about boiled in water.
But i want to know if this could work also on old version arms?
In fact i don't think is enough just changing suspension arms.
Our new track's corners is made by concrete, they are really tough, i saw a gas car broke arm in 1st lap, was just a slightly touch.
But i want to know if this could work also on old version arms?
In fact i don't think is enough just changing suspension arms.
Our new track's corners is made by concrete, they are really tough, i saw a gas car broke arm in 1st lap, was just a slightly touch.
This change the structure of compound, and the behavior, and is posssible you need a litle change in setup, because is a litle more soft suspension.
Greetings, Luis C.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (65)
I'm thinking of bailing my B44 and going D4 just for kix. I know nothing about it, but had a few questions I hope the forum could direct me with........
How much money will I need to spend after I buy the kit? Like absolutley neccessary things. ie) Hara's spring kit. LiPo Tray?
This car looks just like a B44 but more expensive, and I'm a sucker for that crap. Ha!!
How much money will I need to spend after I buy the kit? Like absolutley neccessary things. ie) Hara's spring kit. LiPo Tray?
This car looks just like a B44 but more expensive, and I'm a sucker for that crap. Ha!!
Suspended
iTrader: (87)
Tech Elite
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: MEMBER OF THE "MWC" Mimi Wong Clan
Posts: 2,442
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Any of the experienced RCGT drivers have a setup for this class..running on parking lot surface... running a black cyclone. thanks!!
LMK thanks
LMK thanks
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (12)
I tried Korey's set up which works pretty well for me on parking lot races as well as indoor asphalt.
parking lot/low-medium asphalt setup now (90 deg air temp).
Front:
Spring: HPI Pro 4 Pink
Oil: Losi 70wt, zero rebound, no foam
Piston: 2 hole 1.2mm (the stock one)
Shock Position: 2 on arm, 3 on tower
Camber Link Position: long, 2mm under inner pivot
Camber: 2 deg
Caster: 4 deg
Toe block: 2.5 deg (try a 2.... it'll give a little bit crisper turn in)
Shims under suspension and toe blocks: 1.0mm
Droop: 5.5mm off of a gauge
Toe: 0
Wheelbase: .7mm behind arm, 2mm in front
Ackerman: 3mm on center bell crank
Front drive: spool
Swaybar: silver (1.4mm with 2mm gap in the links)
Rear:
Spring: HPI pro 4 blue
Oil: Losi 70wt, zero rebound, no foam
Piston: 1.2mm 2 hole
Shock position: 4 on tower, 3 on arm
Camber link position: long on bulkhead (1mm under pivot) and short on rear hub (0mm under it).
Toe block: 3 deg
Rear Hub: 0 deg (stock)
Swaybar: copper (1.2mm) with 3mm gap in link
Shims under toe and suspension blocks: 1.5mm
wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm,
parking lot/low-medium asphalt setup now (90 deg air temp).
Front:
Spring: HPI Pro 4 Pink
Oil: Losi 70wt, zero rebound, no foam
Piston: 2 hole 1.2mm (the stock one)
Shock Position: 2 on arm, 3 on tower
Camber Link Position: long, 2mm under inner pivot
Camber: 2 deg
Caster: 4 deg
Toe block: 2.5 deg (try a 2.... it'll give a little bit crisper turn in)
Shims under suspension and toe blocks: 1.0mm
Droop: 5.5mm off of a gauge
Toe: 0
Wheelbase: .7mm behind arm, 2mm in front
Ackerman: 3mm on center bell crank
Front drive: spool
Swaybar: silver (1.4mm with 2mm gap in the links)
Rear:
Spring: HPI pro 4 blue
Oil: Losi 70wt, zero rebound, no foam
Piston: 1.2mm 2 hole
Shock position: 4 on tower, 3 on arm
Camber link position: long on bulkhead (1mm under pivot) and short on rear hub (0mm under it).
Toe block: 3 deg
Rear Hub: 0 deg (stock)
Swaybar: copper (1.2mm) with 3mm gap in link
Shims under toe and suspension blocks: 1.5mm
wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm,
Tech Fanatic
I tried Korey's set up which works pretty well for me on parking lot races as well as indoor asphalt.
parking lot/low-medium asphalt setup now (90 deg air temp).
Front:
Spring: HPI Pro 4 Pink
Oil: Losi 70wt, zero rebound, no foam
Piston: 2 hole 1.2mm (the stock one)
Shock Position: 2 on arm, 3 on tower
Camber Link Position: long, 2mm under inner pivot
Camber: 2 deg
Caster: 4 deg
Toe block: 2.5 deg (try a 2.... it'll give a little bit crisper turn in)
Shims under suspension and toe blocks: 1.0mm
Droop: 5.5mm off of a gauge
Toe: 0
Wheelbase: .7mm behind arm, 2mm in front
Ackerman: 3mm on center bell crank
Front drive: spool
Swaybar: silver (1.4mm with 2mm gap in the links)
Rear:
Spring: HPI pro 4 blue
Oil: Losi 70wt, zero rebound, no foam
Piston: 1.2mm 2 hole
Shock position: 4 on tower, 3 on arm
Camber link position: long on bulkhead (1mm under pivot) and short on rear hub (0mm under it).
Toe block: 3 deg
Rear Hub: 0 deg (stock)
Swaybar: copper (1.2mm) with 3mm gap in link
Shims under toe and suspension blocks: 1.5mm
wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm,
parking lot/low-medium asphalt setup now (90 deg air temp).
Front:
Spring: HPI Pro 4 Pink
Oil: Losi 70wt, zero rebound, no foam
Piston: 2 hole 1.2mm (the stock one)
Shock Position: 2 on arm, 3 on tower
Camber Link Position: long, 2mm under inner pivot
Camber: 2 deg
Caster: 4 deg
Toe block: 2.5 deg (try a 2.... it'll give a little bit crisper turn in)
Shims under suspension and toe blocks: 1.0mm
Droop: 5.5mm off of a gauge
Toe: 0
Wheelbase: .7mm behind arm, 2mm in front
Ackerman: 3mm on center bell crank
Front drive: spool
Swaybar: silver (1.4mm with 2mm gap in the links)
Rear:
Spring: HPI pro 4 blue
Oil: Losi 70wt, zero rebound, no foam
Piston: 1.2mm 2 hole
Shock position: 4 on tower, 3 on arm
Camber link position: long on bulkhead (1mm under pivot) and short on rear hub (0mm under it).
Toe block: 3 deg
Rear Hub: 0 deg (stock)
Swaybar: copper (1.2mm) with 3mm gap in link
Shims under toe and suspension blocks: 1.5mm
wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm,
Tech Master
iTrader: (27)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: im 4rm a far away place called 1st
Posts: 1,849
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
any word on a new hot bodies coming?
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
Just picked up a Cyclone. I'll be running 17.5. Orion has 3.5 as starting point. What gearing configurations does the chassis like best? I have a 47 & 52 pinion in my box.
Thanks. Rob.............
Thanks. Rob.............
Tech Elite
iTrader: (32)
I have a moorespeed cyclone roller with some parts for sale. I hate to sell it but I need to raise some cash.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...one-parts.html
I have added a link since the search seems to be acting up.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...one-parts.html
I have added a link since the search seems to be acting up.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (16)
shock length
what length should the cyclone tc shocks be and how do u measure them?
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
The gearing will depend on the track and motor, Rob.
For the most part, you'll be between 3.5 and 4.7 FDR. Bottom end of that range for a higher torque motor on a large asphalt track. And near the top end of that for a higher RPM motor on a tighter track.
For example, I found the Orion 17.5 to have less top end, and ran it on an indoor carpet track at 3.9. On the same track, I run the 17.5 ORCA (higher RPM motor) at 4.6
On the TC (with the 18tooth pulleys) I usually start with the 93 spur for spec racing. With that, you can go from 4.9 to 3.6 FDR using 41 to 55 pinions.