mac853

Hi guys, in fact i couldn't find more genuine diff cushion for alum. diff. in any shop.
Could somebody tell me if that 1 of 3racing (CY-08A) could use on HB original pro spec alum. diff. of TC, please?

Best regards

luic

Yes, it work, for all plastic parts, include the tyres, but without rubber, only rings, this make the plastic compound more flex, does not prevent you from being broken, but it is more shock-resistant.
This change the structure of compound, and the behavior, and is posssible you need a litle change in setup, because is a litle more soft suspension.

Greetings, Luis C.

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

Yes can !

markhat250

iTrader: (65)

I'm thinking of bailing my B44 and going D4 just for kix. I know nothing about it, but had a few questions I hope the forum could direct me with........


How much money will I need to spend after I buy the kit? Like absolutley neccessary things. ie) Hara's spring kit. LiPo Tray?

This car looks just like a B44 but more expensive, and I'm a sucker for that crap. Ha!!

RaceAce701

iTrader: (87)

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...-ep-buggy.html

try here for a quicker and better answer

RCFREAK

iTrader: (20)

Any of the experienced RCGT drivers have a setup for this class..running on parking lot surface... running a black cyclone. thanks!!

LMK thanks

CSF0623

iTrader: (12)

I tried Korey's set up which works pretty well for me on parking lot races as well as indoor asphalt.

parking lot/low-medium asphalt setup now (90 deg air temp).

Front:

Spring: HPI Pro 4 Pink
Oil: Losi 70wt, zero rebound, no foam
Piston: 2 hole 1.2mm (the stock one)
Shock Position: 2 on arm, 3 on tower
Camber Link Position: long, 2mm under inner pivot
Camber: 2 deg
Caster: 4 deg
Toe block: 2.5 deg (try a 2.... it'll give a little bit crisper turn in)
Shims under suspension and toe blocks: 1.0mm
Droop: 5.5mm off of a gauge
Toe: 0
Wheelbase: .7mm behind arm, 2mm in front
Ackerman: 3mm on center bell crank
Front drive: spool
Swaybar: silver (1.4mm with 2mm gap in the links)

Rear:

Spring: HPI pro 4 blue
Oil: Losi 70wt, zero rebound, no foam
Piston: 1.2mm 2 hole
Shock position: 4 on tower, 3 on arm
Camber link position: long on bulkhead (1mm under pivot) and short on rear hub (0mm under it).
Toe block: 3 deg
Rear Hub: 0 deg (stock)
Swaybar: copper (1.2mm) with 3mm gap in link
Shims under toe and suspension blocks: 1.5mm
wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm,

mac853

But how about its reliability?
Even the HB 1 is weak, i don't believe the 3racing's 1 is better, isn't it?

tc3 racer sc

any guys got a good concrete track set up a good base to set up

jdm19turn

iTrader: (1)

Hey reggie what's up ya coming back to easly s.c soon to race with us?

racer x 1

iTrader: (27)

any word on a new hot bodies coming?

Robio

iTrader: (5)

Just picked up a Cyclone. I'll be running 17.5. Orion has 3.5 as starting point. What gearing configurations does the chassis like best? I have a 47 & 52 pinion in my box.

Thanks. Rob.............

BillyCaldwell

iTrader: (32)

I have a moorespeed cyclone roller with some parts for sale. I hate to sell it but I need to raise some cash.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...one-parts.html

I have added a link since the search seems to be acting up.

louielou

iTrader: (16)

what length should the cyclone tc shocks be and how do u measure them?

rc pete

iTrader: (6)

Are you running the Orion 17.5, or just looking at their gear chart?
The gearing will depend on the track and motor, Rob.
For the most part, you'll be between 3.5 and 4.7 FDR. Bottom end of that range for a higher torque motor on a large asphalt track. And near the top end of that for a higher RPM motor on a tighter track.

For example, I found the Orion 17.5 to have less top end, and ran it on an indoor carpet track at 3.9. On the same track, I run the 17.5 ORCA (higher RPM motor) at 4.6

On the TC (with the 18tooth pulleys) I usually start with the 93 spur for spec racing. With that, you can go from 4.9 to 3.6 FDR using 41 to 55 pinions.